Question for the experienced 4 strokers

[RippinV]

1. With the new RX 1 ER what should my break in be like? Som suggest ride it like you stole it other suggest easy...

2. For the first oil change should I use the Yamaha or step right up to synthetic Amsoil?

3. Is there any particular additive for the oil to prevent oil burn?

4. Will the saddle bags scratch the tops of the exhaust covers?

5. Any other tips woud be great.

 

[Mighty]

1) Easy for the first 50 or so miles then let er rip.
2) I would get the original oil out at about 3-500 miles and stay with dino oil for about 1,500-2,000 miles then go synthetic.
3) No
4) I don't know, I don't use them
5) Clutch it, stud it, switch exaust, get K&N's and hang on.
6) You can get the good stuff from Matt @ the speedshop.

 

[RippinV]

Silly questions...

What is Dino oil, and can I just do the K&N's without clutching and studding? I had my Viper studded but that was because of the crappy track, I think I will be happy with the RipSaw for the trail riding I do. Oh, what is wrong with the stock clutching? :exc:

Thanks..

OH, one more question. WHat are the oppinions of the stock ski's and what alternatives should I be looking at. I have never added aftermarket skis to any of my sleds but have heard success stories..

Thanks again~!

 

[LeeKo]

skis

I feel Simmons work the best on the RX-1. I have also tried stock, C&A's and Powder Pro's on the RX1.

 

[impalapower]

Dino oil is non-synthetic oil.

 

[Mighty]

If you go with the ripsaw and stay on the trails you'll be OK without studs, Just beware of icy corners.
Yes you can do the K&N's without clutching, it's just that all the mods I listed work best together. Be sure to jet and replace the CV springs to compensate for the better airflow. I would recommend getting an ECP kit, it's easier.
Stock clutching is very mild, Heavy Hitter clutching brings this sled to life

I have the stock ski's and haven't had any issues, However, I would like wider for better flotation.

 

[welterracer]

Ride it like ya stole it.. Ive had two warriors and both never used oil..

Like the others said,, Clutch it (BEST bang for the buck) and stud it and put some C&A skis on it... NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE!!

Get your parts from matt.. at the thespeedshop1.com

and yes the exhaust covers scratch easily!!

 

[RippinV]

So, I should get the ECP kit, should I just drive up to Waterbury and buy it from those guys? C&A skis then are the best with big performance differences. Finally, what is SeaFoam? Also, has anyone tried sewing felt on the botttom of the saddle bags to prevent scratching?

Thanks a bunch

 

[Mighty]

If you live that close to ECP go there and meet Freddie, great guy

I have heard good things about C&A, I just think they are ugly.

Seafoam is a product that cleans carbon build up from the combustion chamber and rings. Some high milage guys have reported some oil usage, after treating with seafoam they stopped using oil.

 

[RippinV]

Thanks Mighty, so you prefer the performance and look of Simmons. I actually work about 15 minutes from Waterbury, CT where ECP is. They used to be called something else back when they specialized in Doos. I forget what though.

 

[Mighty]

I definately prefer the looks of the simmons and understand they have great flotation too. I'm considering a pair of the Black & yellow ones for my Warrior. I'm having a hard time shelling out the dough because I haven't had any issues with my stockers.

 

[RippinV]

I think I will go that route as well, I will ride her stock and see what I think I need.

 

[impalapower]

I wouln't monkey with the felt. The felt will pick up dirt and rub on the exhaust covers. Just get some new covers when you decide to sell it or discontinue using the bags.

 

[LazyBastard]

About the breakin... tough issue.

Some people read the manufacturer's recommendation and don't UNDERSTAND it. It is, if properly adhered to, the BEST way to break in an engine.

What it will state is that you keep it slow for the first VERY short time, blipping it to max occasionally, until it is sortof smoothed out a bit, then for the first 500 miles, avoid holding it WOT for EXTENDED periods, which can cause excessive heat to build up in the rings, which can potentially cause deformation and highly accelerated and uneven wear. This by NO MEANS suggests that you can't or shouldn't open it up all the way, in fact, you MUST let it rip during breakin in order to properly seat the rings.

The book will specify some max *average* rpm to adhere to... what it means is that if it is, say, 7000 rpm, then if you run it at 8000 for 30 seconds, you should follow that immediatly by running it at 6000 for 30 seconds to let the rings cool down.

Remember that the engine temperature sensor that monitors for overheating is measuring the overall engine heat... it doesn't direct the measurement to the hottest part, so you can have an engine overheat without setting off the overheat sensor.



Now as for skis.... as a SAFETY consideration, they must be changed. Particular types of crusty snow will allow one of those tiny stock skis to break through, which is like immediatly putting on the brakes full on that one side, causing it to flip over to the other side. Get Simmons, they float really well.

 

[Swiss Sledder]

Aftermarket skis are needed for this sled. Simmons give you more stability because they increase the ski stance. They also offer better flotation in powder conditions. Personally, I think they also bite better in the corners and help reduce ski lift.

If are worried about the saddlebags scratching the exhaust covers, the Sport Luggage (SMA-8FA73-20-00) doesn't really touch the covers. The downside is that it doesn't have as much space as the saddlebags.