Quick rear axle adjustment/alignment question after 4th wheel kit install.

[vipermike2002]

I installed a 4th wheel the other day on my Attak. Although I feel you can't install this wrong if the wheels line up with the track but I have a few questions about rear axle alignment. I didn't remove the skid for this install but just loosed it up and ratchet strapped the track out of the way so I can slip the rear axle and wheels in and out. I had a issue with some track/rear wheel wear and I just wanted to make sure everything is aligned on the rear axle.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/wh...lar-track-bogey-wheel-wear-pic-inside.139580/

(photo I found online)

Red Arrows: As long as the track alignment adjuster is flipped the correct way they bolts should slightly face towards the outside wheels? So you can adjust track tention though the track holes.

Black Arrows: It looks like the axle has some front/back adjustment but with the track tight it should move the axle to the front on both skids of the skid rail right?

Green/Red: Would it even be possible to have one end of the axle froward and one back causing the rear wheels to not be correctly aligned?

 

[vipermike2002]

Or am I thinking about this all wrong. The track adjusters that you access through the holes in the track move the axle front/back making the track loose/tight.

AS long as the sag is equal on both size the axle is aligned and the rear wheel should be straight?

 

[vipermike2002]

My left track adjuster is very hard to get a socket in to adjust because it inst pointed out towards the outside rear wheels like the other side. Did I flip it around when I slid the axle though?

It is my understanding that both track adjusters point slightly towards the outside rear wheels to make it easier to get a socket in.

 

[gitrdun]

vipermike2002, those adjustment bolts are offset and should be angling toward the outside on their respective sides. Loosen the nut on the axle to make these adjustments. Lift the rear of the machine up so the track can hang free. Take the nuts right off the adjusters and put them back on counting and keeping the turns equal on both sides till you have the required sag in your track which is about 1 1/2 inches just hanging. Then tighten up your axle nut, give the track a test run and see if you have to adjust left or right, to centre it. Always keep track of your number of turns on each nut, so that you can make changes.

 

[Redbeard]

Would it even be possible to have one end of the axle froward and one back causing the rear wheels to not be correctly aligned?

Absolutely this can happen. If the track is out of alignment (axle not adjusted properly), it will walk to one side and can cause excessive wear and damage components. The rear axle has a dual purpose adjustment: It aligns (pushing or pulling each side) and tightens (or loosens) the track simultaneously. If you adjust track tension, you need to check the alignment; vice a versa.

Look through the track windows to check alignment. Make sure there is equal distance between the drive lug edges and the hyfax edges on both sides.

If your track is too loose, the drivers will skip (ratchet) the drive lugs. If this happens, you'll have to tighten the track. You're running a lot of studs, so you may have to tighten the track even more.

 

[vipermike2002]

Absolutely this can happen. If the track is out of alignment (axle not adjusted properly), it will walk to one side and can cause excessive wear and damage components. The rear axle has a dual purpose adjustment: It aligns (pushing or pulling each side) and tightens (or loosens) the track simultaneously. If you adjust track tension, you need to check the alignment; vice a versa.

Look through the track windows to check alignment. Make sure there is equal distance between the drive lug edges and the hyfax edges on both sides.

If your track is too loose, the drivers will skip (ratchet) the drive lugs. If this happens, you'll have to tighten the track. You're running a lot of studs, so you may have to tighten the track even more.


View attachment 114849 View attachment 114850

So the track adjusters directly effect tension AND alignment?

 

[gitrdun]

Exactly! The more you screw the nut onto the bolt of the adjuster, the closer you pull the axle towards the rear, the tighter you make the track. Thats why it is so important to count your revolutions of each nut, if all your parts are in good shape, and you turn both nuts equally, be it 5 revolutions or 10 revolutions or whatever it takes to get to 1.25 inches sag in your track(track deflection)(distance between track and slider), you quite often end up with the track fairly well aligned. If not aligned, your left nut turned out or right nut turned in, or vice versa, will make that tweak. But let's hope you may not have to go that far. If you don't have one yet, you really do need a service manual. So much information there! Also, do check that left side adjuster, it may be flipped when you installed the kit(you should be able to see it). If so, put it back where it should be. What I do when I'm messing with that back axle, I loosen the axle nut(or remove), loosen the adjuster nuts(or remove)(count revolutions), pull track back with ratchet straps, and if for instance, I want to flip that left side adjuster, As I'm sliding the axle out of the passenger side, I'm pushing in a F350 tire iron(or similar) through the driver's side to keep all the pieces aligned. When you get to the adjuster, just flip it, and reverse the procedure.

 

[ranger1]

Once you have the proper sag (tension) & you have the same amount of threads on each bolt, run the track with the sled on a track stand, shut it down, then measure the distance between the hyfax & the outer edge of the track on both sides to make sure they are the same. If there is more track sticking out on one side you can either tighten that side or loosen the opposite side to correct it.

 

[gitrdun]

Remember, it doesn't have to be perfect to the millithousands of an inch. If I see space on one side, and I see almost same space on other side, I'm good to go. Eyeball only.

 

[vipermike2002]

Thanks.

This was a lot more simple then I made it out to me...

Went with 3/4 inch sag (no weights) Drove it a few miles around my yard and feels fine. Will double check after a day of trail riding.

 

[SUC_doo]

Once you have the proper sag (tension) & you have the same amount of threads on each bolt, run the track with the sled on a track stand, shut it down, then measure the distance between the hyfax & the outer edge of the track on both sides to make sure they are the same. If there is more track sticking out on one side you can either tighten that side or loosen the opposite side to correct it.

I jsut changed my track,,,,i can't get my new one quite lined up....i got lots of studs so i been tighten same amount of turns til i get around 1/2 inch hang on both sides.....But One side is over 1/4 inch from lug to hyfax and the other side is like 3/4 of a 1/4 inch

 

[Winderallday!]

I jsut changed my track,,,,i can't get my new one quite lined up....i got lots of studs so i been tighten same amount of turns til i get around 1/2 inch hang on both sides.....But One side is over 1/4 inch from lug to hyfax and the other side is like 3/4 of a 1/4 inch

Think of your track as a conveyor belt, if both front and rear axles aren't running parallel to each other the belt will naturally want to track to one side. Doesnt take much adjustment to center the belt. Leave axle nut loose enough so you can fine tune the alignment then tighten up completely
The amount of exposed threads on adjuster being equal is a good starting point, they may not end up being equal when you get the track centered due to worn components and track condition.

 

[ranger1]

I jsut changed my track,,,,i can't get my new one quite lined up....i got lots of studs so i been tighten same amount of turns til i get around 1/2 inch hang on both sides.....But One side is over 1/4 inch from lug to hyfax and the other side is like 3/4 of a 1/4 inch

I would just loosen the one side until the track is centered as it is rare that both sides will have the exact same sag, the tracks seem to always be a bit longer on one side. eg might be 3/4" sag on one side then 5/8" on the other side, as long as it is centered you are good to go.