LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,276
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 1,216
There is a lot of confusion about what it means to break it in "by the book".
Fact is that the book does NOT say to be gentle on it. It does NOT say to "keep the speed under X all the time". Most people read it like that, but that is NOT what it actually says.
What the book says is to LET IT RIP, but for NOT TOO LONG at a time. Before you hold it long enough to DAMAGE it, let off so it can cool down!
The reason for this is simple; while the engine is new, the parts haven't yet polished perfectly. There are burrs, and rough spots, and what can happen is that you can get LOCALIZED HEAT. The effect of this is that the engine does NOT overall overheat (i.e. warning lights), but you can actually DAMAGE things as if it DID overheat. Things like the RINGS experience higher than normal friction during early stages, and this higher friction isn't even even all the way around -- one part of the ring can experience more friction (and therefore heat) than another part of the same ring. And you know what happens when you heat a piece of metal unevenly, right? It distorts.
So the breakin procedure is designed to seat the rings forcefully, using BRIEF periods of hard work, but not for SO long that things get too hot (unevenly) and distort (very very bad).
Fact is that the book does NOT say to be gentle on it. It does NOT say to "keep the speed under X all the time". Most people read it like that, but that is NOT what it actually says.
What the book says is to LET IT RIP, but for NOT TOO LONG at a time. Before you hold it long enough to DAMAGE it, let off so it can cool down!
The reason for this is simple; while the engine is new, the parts haven't yet polished perfectly. There are burrs, and rough spots, and what can happen is that you can get LOCALIZED HEAT. The effect of this is that the engine does NOT overall overheat (i.e. warning lights), but you can actually DAMAGE things as if it DID overheat. Things like the RINGS experience higher than normal friction during early stages, and this higher friction isn't even even all the way around -- one part of the ring can experience more friction (and therefore heat) than another part of the same ring. And you know what happens when you heat a piece of metal unevenly, right? It distorts.
So the breakin procedure is designed to seat the rings forcefully, using BRIEF periods of hard work, but not for SO long that things get too hot (unevenly) and distort (very very bad).
Groomer08
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
hey
hey we got a winner over here!!!
Johny, tell him what hes won!!!
thats how i do it. you can use wide open at 2 miles if you want, you just cant hold it there and rip accross the lake....
but wacking the throttle to chew threw a 6ft drift for 5 seconds, is Perfectly fine.
you need to have a load on the engine, and you need to open it up to really seat the rings. case closed.
under 35mph for 300 miles...ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? screw the book.
hey we got a winner over here!!!
Johny, tell him what hes won!!!
thats how i do it. you can use wide open at 2 miles if you want, you just cant hold it there and rip accross the lake....
but wacking the throttle to chew threw a 6ft drift for 5 seconds, is Perfectly fine.
you need to have a load on the engine, and you need to open it up to really seat the rings. case closed.
under 35mph for 300 miles...ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? screw the book.
