

Turboflash
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Just putting this our to our experts.
When doing routine yearly maintenance on rail assy, if an idler wheel seems "dry" or is "noisy" (not smooth, not quiet), should we replace bearing (or entire wheel assy) with new, or is it just as good to just regrease bearing? I.e. pick seal off bearing, clean bearing (with brake clean or similar, air blow bearing clean) then use needle point grease tip to regrease bearing with new grease)? Is a clean/regreased bearing just as good (or better) as a brand new bearing?
There are many different greases bearing manufacturers use in their new bearings.
I've researched and there are a number of greases that are better (for our application) than what OEMs use in their regular production bearings we buy. For example, there are many greases much better for high moisture environments than what OEM uses.
So, replacing a used bearing (or entire idler wheel w bearing) with a new idler wheel only gets you the same grease in the same bearing as what you took out. If you decide to pick seal out, flush bearing with brake clean (or similar), compressed air blow out, then regrease with superior grease, isn't that better than just installing the same oem bearing you took out?
When doing routine yearly maintenance on rail assy, if an idler wheel seems "dry" or is "noisy" (not smooth, not quiet), should we replace bearing (or entire wheel assy) with new, or is it just as good to just regrease bearing? I.e. pick seal off bearing, clean bearing (with brake clean or similar, air blow bearing clean) then use needle point grease tip to regrease bearing with new grease)? Is a clean/regreased bearing just as good (or better) as a brand new bearing?
There are many different greases bearing manufacturers use in their new bearings.
I've researched and there are a number of greases that are better (for our application) than what OEMs use in their regular production bearings we buy. For example, there are many greases much better for high moisture environments than what OEM uses.
So, replacing a used bearing (or entire idler wheel w bearing) with a new idler wheel only gets you the same grease in the same bearing as what you took out. If you decide to pick seal out, flush bearing with brake clean (or similar), compressed air blow out, then regrease with superior grease, isn't that better than just installing the same oem bearing you took out?
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I think once it’s grinding or loose damage is done to bearing already replace bearing. If it still feels good regrease it preferably asap after last ride in spring before it sits and rusts.Greasing them definitely helps.
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REDLINE 1
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I jiggle the wheels side to side if there’s some excessive play and or grinding I replace the bearing. The rubber on the stock wheels didn’t last too long so I replaced with the J&T wheels which have held up much better so I just replace bearings if they go bad. Never re greased before probably not a bad idea


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I think once it’s grinding or loose damage is done to bearing already replace bearing. If it still feels good regrease it preferably asap after last ride in spring before it sits and rusts.Greasing them definitely helps.
I agree 100%


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i clean and re grease the ones on my main trail sleds annually. i have used multiple types of grease and didn't really see much of a difference. i clean them like you said and if they have a hitch when i spin them, i replace the bearing. the wheel only gets replaced when the rubber is going bad or when the bearing can be installed with only pressure from my thumbs.

RobX-1
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I wholeheartedly concur with @Turboflash. Cleaning and re-greasing my idler wheel bearings, as well as other bearings, was the primary reason for purchasing my benchtop parts washer. Makes quick work of removing the old grease from the bearings along with using an old toothbrush. Then, when using compressed air to blow dry the bearing, if you hold the air nozzle at just the right angle towards the bearing, you can get the bearing to spin, and spin real fast, and this is when I look and feel for imperfections. If it passes, I re-pack using my preferred grease and if not, I pitch it.
Motorhead
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I do this during the shock rebuilds, usually every 2-3 years pertaining to how many miles the winter has allowed. First time on my 2017 I popped the bearing seal plastic cover on every wheel and regressed with some black moly grease. I found that all stock bearings were pretty dry with very minimal grease. 3 years passed and I statred doing the same, but after taking 3 apart I was finding that they were full of grease and needed none, so I left them! Will be tearing in again this season, so shall grease the ones that still look good and replace wheels that don't!


STAIN
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What are you using for solvent?benchtop parts washer
pdiddy
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I'm a re-greaser unless it's not smooth or too much play as others have said. Use Wd-40 and an air hose to clean and dry them out. Whish I could find a good source to replace the seals as I'm never sure the seal removal hasn't left a slight bend behind.

RobX-1
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Oil Eater Cleaner/DegreaserWhat are you using for solvent?
It dilutes with water where I believe I used a
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Turboflash
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I use a dental pik to get seal off. It's important to pik seal out at the outside, not the inside. Even if there's a slight blemish, it won't matter. The seal isn't turning/moving around the outside. It's turning at the ID, don't damage seal there as it likely will cause it to not be sealed well. Also, just lay seal on a flat surface to verify it's not bent before you put it back on.I'm a re-greaser unless it's not smooth or too much play as others have said. Use Wd-40 and an air hose to clean and dry them out. Whish I could find a good source to replace the seals as I'm never sure the seal removal hasn't left a slight bend behind.
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