Rear Heat Exchanger Stud Interference (Apex SE)

[Soldier'spapa]

Thats what I was envisioning from your description.

I have a couple questions though: 1) Is it reasonable to think that the bolt might eventually wear through the top of the protector allowing it to then compress the bracket? 2) I understand you have positioned the exhaust higher than it was, but is there also a bolt extending down onto the protector in the front bracket area (closer to the EXUP)? Port Yamaha told me they have encountered several tore up EXUP's due to the front brackets compressing near it.

 

[1 TOUZAN]

1) I guess anything's possible. But what you could do is screw the bolt thru and put a nut and washer on it, then tighten the bolt down and then run the nut and washer down and loctite in place with the washer making contact to the protector to give it a bigger foot print. A one piece nut with washer would be perfect. 2) No, there aren't any others that line up directly above protector. The protector is mounted solid at the very front at the front heat exchanger so once the rear is solid you would have to bend the protector to move it. Also at the rear exchanger you could use aluminum angle for a shim and rivet it at the sides. One other thing, I think some guys run their tracks to loose causing excessive pressure to the protector when the track balloons out at speed. Just some ideas!

 

[Soldier'spapa]

1) I guess anything's possible. But what you could do is screw the bolt thru and put a nut and washer on it, then tighten the bolt down and then run the nut and washer down and loctite in place with the washer making contact to the protector to give it a bigger foot print. A one piece nut with washer would be perfect. 2) No, there aren't any others that line up directly above protector. The protector is mounted solid at the very front at the front heat exchanger so once the rear is solid you would have to bend the protector to move it. Also at the rear exchanger you could use aluminum angle for a shim and rivet it at the sides. One other thing, I think some guys run their tracks to loose causing excessive pressure to the protector when the track balloons out at speed. Just some ideas!

A one piece nut with washer/shoulder on it would do very nicely on top of the protector! The angled aluminum riveted on the side is exactly what I used for the additional material at the rear exchanger. Its a shame we have to re-engineer this protector. Studding tracks is not a new idea and Yamaha really dropped the ball with this design!

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

The problem with the stock tunnel protectors on the newer power steering apex's is that the C-channel bracket that attaches them to the tunnel actually flexes as the track rubs against the protectors allowing the studs to do the damage you see. Over time the C-channel gap decreases as the channel bends from the protectors contact with the track and then you get into some serious problems with the cooler and the EXUP Valve getting hit by the studs (you may want to check out the EXUP on the sled above as well). What we have been doing is removing the C-channel brackets and having a chunk of aluminum welded into them to prevent them from collapsing and then reinstalling them. If you choose this route be sure to get a measurement of how big the gap is on a stock protector as most used sleds have already had the gap flattened as the C-channel bends over use. Here's a couple photos of how we mod the C-channel brackets.

Is there still enough room to get a wrench in to tighten the nut?

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Yes,

A socket on an extension can get to the nut. There is an opening on the "C bracket" providing access.

 

[Caveman]

If I lift up the back end of my XTX, is it possible to remove the tunnel protectors and reinforce the brackets as Port Yamaha and others have done without removing the skid? Loosen the track ? Take the seat off ?

I saw a post where someone was able to rivet 1/4" strips of aluminum to the bottom of the current protectors, supposedly with an angle drill and a rivet gun without removing the skid but it doesn't look like there's enough room to get in there and access the most forward brackets.

Removing the skid would obviously be easier but I've never done it on this machine and would prefer not to on a new sled with no other reason to pull it.

 

[Kaz]

I haven't heard of anyone having problems with studs on the XTX version, provided the studs are no bigger than 1.325. The XTX has a lot more clearance than the 128.
Kaz

 

[Caveman]

Thanks Kaz for the reassurance. I did hear this was less common than on the SE but "Smitdog" posted some nasty EXUP and pipe damage on his XTX from studs. I'm not sure what length he was running but I'd rather be safe than $orry and see if I can do the same bracket mod to be sure.

 

[raginyamaha]

I haven't heard of anyone having problems with studs on the XTX version, provided the studs are no bigger than 1.325. The XTX has a lot more clearance than the 128.
Kaz

My uncles had some exup contact on his XTX. Was just minor tho. took the protectors to get em reinforced. They were flattened pretty bad..

 

[smitdog55]

i was running 1.325 studs, but did let the limiter strap out to give the front end some play and after that it caused the damage so have the protecters reinforced.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

If I lift up the back end of my XTX, is it possible to remove the tunnel protectors and reinforce the brackets as Port Yamaha and others have done without removing the skid? Loosen the track ? Take the seat off ?

I saw a post where someone was able to rivet 1/4" strips of aluminum to the bottom of the current protectors, supposedly with an angle drill and a rivet gun without removing the skid but it doesn't look like there's enough room to get in there and access the most forward brackets.

Removing the skid would obviously be easier but I've never done it on this machine and would prefer not to on a new sled with no other reason to pull it.

I didn't remove the protectors from my SE in order to perform the mod. Bought it that way... I just added the rear exchanger protection. That said, I bet removing the rear skid bolts and letting the track/skid drop down might afford enough room to get at the protector nuts. Use a ratchet strap to hold the skid arms in position and swing it back up when complete.

Just a thought...

 

[**sj**]

any updates

..I like the idea of shimming up the exhaust and down the protector with the bolt...question is ..do you think you could get away with a 1.50 stud (staying out of the middle of course)

 

[1 TOUZAN]

..I like the idea of shimming up the exhaust and down the protector with the bolt...question is ..do you think you could get away with a 1.50 stud (staying out of the middle of course)

Maybe on an XTX but I don't think so on a shorty, it's awful tight in there.

 

[Sno Cat]

Has anyone tried an Ice Ripper track? And if so, did the studs hit? Is the I-Rip'r a good track otherwise? Just curious if the 'Ripper's a good solution to the stud clearance issue. Thanks.

 

[**sj**]

I doubt the ripper will have clearance issues with protector shim and brace...fwiw I've heard they don't hold up well unless ridden in pristine conditions 100%