Hi,
I have an 06 apex with a boondocker race fuel turbo kit and I was going to remove the head shim to bring the comp back up and only run 10psi or so. Can anyone tell me what i need to do to the cam timing? do I need to remove a link from the chain or is it adjustable? I have not had it apart yet.
Also I was thinking of changing the turbo to a mid mount if anyone has a mid mount header laying around, let me know.
Thanks
I have an 06 apex with a boondocker race fuel turbo kit and I was going to remove the head shim to bring the comp back up and only run 10psi or so. Can anyone tell me what i need to do to the cam timing? do I need to remove a link from the chain or is it adjustable? I have not had it apart yet.
Also I was thinking of changing the turbo to a mid mount if anyone has a mid mount header laying around, let me know.
Thanks
Vectorboost
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Most likely the cam wheels where slotted to bring the motor back to factory timing after the head shim was added. You can either loosen the to bolts and rotate them back to original spots or buy new cam wheels depending how the last person went about slotting them.
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eric82930 said:Hi,
I have an 06 apex with a boondocker race fuel turbo kit and I was going to remove the head shim to bring the comp back up and only run 10psi or so. Can anyone tell me what i need to do to the cam timing? do I need to remove a link from the chain or is it adjustable? I have not had it apart yet.
Also I was thinking of changing the turbo to a mid mount if anyone has a mid mount header laying around, let me know.
Thanks
10 PSI is going to require, Head Shim or Race Gas or Low Compression pistons or Meth
Injection.
I don't get why you are going to bother with all that work of taking out the shim.
Set the Turbo at 11 PSI instead of removing the shim to increase the compression and you will have similar performance to 10 PSI & no shim but not blow her up
ghost rider
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Riceburner said:eric82930 said:Hi,
I have an 06 apex with a boondocker race fuel turbo kit and I was going to remove the head shim to bring the comp back up and only run 10psi or so. Can anyone tell me what i need to do to the cam timing? do I need to remove a link from the chain or is it adjustable? I have not had it apart yet.
Also I was thinking of changing the turbo to a mid mount if anyone has a mid mount header laying around, let me know.
Thanks
10 PSI is going to require, Head Shim or Race Gas or Low Compression pistons or Meth
Injection.
I don't get why you are going to bother with all that work of taking out the shim.
Set the Turbo at 11 PSI instead of removing the shim to increase the compression and you will have similar performance to 10 PSI & no shim but not blow her up
AGREED….I sometimes run 10-12 lbs with out a shim (boost controller) but have to run 110 Octane and its not cheap @ 90.bucks for 5 gallons.
so i turn it down to 8-9 run pump with Octane boost and it runs great.
with a shim you can run 10 easy without the need for race gas…..big bonus.
Thanks for the replies, I checked my timing gears and they look stock and are NOT slotted. I guess I've been running with slightly advanced cam timing all along.
If I have to run the boost at 8, I will. Or I can put some race fuel in if I go below below 8000 feet but almost I never go there....The parking lot is 8500.
Off boost is too lazy and I had raising the engagement on the clutches. On boost at 10 psi is plenty right now and high compression at 8psi will probably be about the same and the turb will be making colder air at 8.
I can always go back if i don't like it.....
If I have to run the boost at 8, I will. Or I can put some race fuel in if I go below below 8000 feet but almost I never go there....The parking lot is 8500.
Off boost is too lazy and I had raising the engagement on the clutches. On boost at 10 psi is plenty right now and high compression at 8psi will probably be about the same and the turb will be making colder air at 8.
I can always go back if i don't like it.....
Vectorboost
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You might not be able to actually see the slotting, edge of the bolt head might be covering the little bit of slot that it has. Talk to Allen Ulmer he will get your clutch setup so your bottom end is better also try going down a tooth or two on top gear to help with bottom end. . LIke the other guys said once you boost high its hard to go back to a low boost setup.
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Install a meth kit. Windshield washer is a lot cheaper than race gas.
rxrider
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That is Your problem, the gears have not been slotted to get the timing correct.
Your exhaust has Advanced but Your intake came has been retarded. You're loosing a lot of response and HP With a retarded intake cam.
You need to advance the intake cam to get the response and HP back.
Your exhaust has Advanced but Your intake came has been retarded. You're loosing a lot of response and HP With a retarded intake cam.
You need to advance the intake cam to get the response and HP back.
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om600 said:Have a new npp ceramic coated header.pm me if interested
npp?
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Neils Power Pipes big bike and sled pipe builder in western Canada ,http://www.npowerperformance.com/index.php
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