Riding impressions of "power steering."

[Epicsw]

If anyone is on the fence over whether to buy the Barn of Parts power steering kit... BUY IT!

After nearly 300 miles of twisty curvies in Northern Wisconsin, I can tell you I no longer miss my Apex's power steering. What a marvelous difference this kit makes!!

Thanks for developing and marketing your genius contraption. It works flawlessly.

Another 100 plus mile afternoon with MPS, Mercer to Wakefield and lots of ditch banging too, and Travis's product performed STELLAR!!!! My riding buddy on his ZR9000 without the kit is going to be buying the kit after trying my LTX-LE Winder. As I whipped through the woods I kept thinking about how effortless the turns were compared to factory feeling and darting was almost completely gone and I'm still using the garbage factory skis.

 

[pmk]

Another 100 plus mile afternoon with MPS, Mercer to Wakefield and lots of ditch banging too, and Travis's product performed STELLAR!!!! My riding buddy on his ZR9000 without the kit is going to be buying the kit after trying my LTX-LE Winder. As I whipped through the woods I kept thinking about how effortless the turns were compared to factory feeling and darting was almost completely gone and I'm still using the garbage factory skis.

Is there a noticeable reduction in turn radius?

 

[PAvector]

Which hole setting did you use?

 

[3UR]

Which hole setting did you use?

I started on the farthest hole from the spindle (provides easiest steering). After riding for several days and moving it around I prefer the middle position. I will continue to evaluate as riding conditions change. During the off season I will have it powder coated to match my blue spindles.

 

[Epicsw]

Is there a noticeable reduction in turn radius?

I was initially, before riding with it, concerned about the turn radius. After nearly 500 miles in all types of riding and scenarios, I'd have to say "NO." There is no perceptible difference or limiting. I've only used the "easiest" setting (furthest from the spindle).

 

[cannondale27]

Do you notice bumpsteer now? I do not see how its possible to bend the tierods and not increase bump steer. Also the geometry has been changed.

 

[3UR]

Nope, no bump steer.

 

[pmk]

I was initially, before riding with it, concerned about the turn radius. After nearly 500 miles in all types of riding and scenarios, I'd have to say "NO." There is no perceptible difference or limiting. I've only used the "easiest" setting (furthest from the spindle).

Thanks!

 

[Turdbo Cat]

Do you notice bumpsteer now? I do not see how its possible to bend the tierods and not increase bump steer. Also the geometry has been changed.

Bumpsteer will only be affected by the change in tie rod height angle, not fore/aft angle.

 

[grubf]

After reading all the threads about steering and skis and carbide choices I think there should be a thread started on how to set up 137's and a separate thread on how to set up 129's. The rear skids are completely different and there is a lot more weight transfer built in to the 129's. This affects everything. It seems the 137's turn better no matter what ski/carbide combination is used. What works on a 137 does not necessarily work on a 129. I have tried just about everything on my 129 and I still do not trust it to bite all the time. The front end still lifts on a railroad grade or a lake. I have my limiter strap sucked down one notch past stock and the front springs pushed down so there is 4 inches of thread showing. I have tried Cat skis with 8 inch single bars. No good. I put snowtrackers on the Cat skis. No good. I talked with a guy who had Mohawks on his 'Winder. He thought it turned great. I rode his for two miles through the woods on tight trails and I thought it was worse than mine. I met up with a guy with Slydogs. Again he thought his sled turned like a dream. I rode that one too and thought it sucked. Met a guy with Curves. He had the front shocks wound down to 5 inches of thread showing. There was just about no room left to screw them down anymore. The front end was so stiff it was like riding something with no suspension. Steering is subjective I guess. First I want to turn. After that I will worry about steering effort.

 

[Turdbo Cat]

After reading all the threads about steering and skis and carbide choices I think there should be a thread started on how to set up 137's and a separate thread on how to set up 129's. The rear skids are completely different and there is a lot more weight transfer built in to the 129's. This affects everything. It seems the 137's turn better no matter what ski/carbide combination is used. What works on a 137 does not necessarily work on a 129. I have tried just about everything on my 129 and I still do not trust it to bite all the time. The front end still lifts on a railroad grade or a lake. I have my limiter strap sucked down one notch past stock and the front springs pushed down so there is 4 inches of thread showing. I have tried Cat skis with 8 inch single bars. No good. I put snowtrackers on the Cat skis. No good. I talked with a guy who had Mohawks on his 'Winder. He thought it turned great. I rode his for two miles through the woods on tight trails and I thought it was worse than mine. I met up with a guy with Slydogs. Again he thought his sled turned like a dream. I rode that one too and thought it sucked. Met a guy with Curves. He had the front shocks wound down to 5 inches of thread showing. There was just about no room left to screw them down anymore. The front end was so stiff it was like riding something with no suspension. Steering is subjective I guess. First I want to turn. After that I will worry about steering effort.

You haven't mentioned rear coupler block position . On my 129 turbo RR I have as little movement as it allows.

4" between front upper arm and bumpstop on the rail.

Front A Arms level.

Snowtrackers on Cat ski(out turns 7.5 Duece on USI Triple Threats).

Turns awesome, skis stay on ground.

I just can't turn it(I'm not strong enough) like I need to keep up with 6 and 700's in the woods.

 

[cannondale27]

After reading all the threads about steering and skis and carbide choices I think there should be a thread started on how to set up 137's and a separate thread on how to set up 129's. The rear skids are completely different and there is a lot more weight transfer built in to the 129's. This affects everything. It seems the 137's turn better no matter what ski/carbide combination is used. What works on a 137 does not necessarily work on a 129. I have tried just about everything on my 129 and I still do not trust it to bite all the time. The front end still lifts on a railroad grade or a lake. I have my limiter strap sucked down one notch past stock and the front springs pushed down so there is 4 inches of thread showing. I have tried Cat skis with 8 inch single bars. No good. I put snowtrackers on the Cat skis. No good. I talked with a guy who had Mohawks on his 'Winder. He thought it turned great. I rode his for two miles through the woods on tight trails and I thought it was worse than mine. I met up with a guy with Slydogs. Again he thought his sled turned like a dream. I rode that one too and thought it sucked. Met a guy with Curves. He had the front shocks wound down to 5 inches of thread showing. There was just about no room left to screw them down anymore. The front end was so stiff it was like riding something with no suspension. Steering is subjective I guess. First I want to turn. After that I will worry about steering effort.

CA Pro if you want to be guaranteed to turn. Otherwise be ready to use throttle,brake and body to turn.

 

[grubf]

So basically you have to get rid of all the weight transfer and stiffen the rear suspension. It is trade offs. Cant have it all.

 

[LouTurbo]

I believe it and will buy the power steering arms, I'm all about less soreness. I have the BOP belt adjuster and the quality is very robust.

Also I've developed a sledding workout for myself, I lift 20-30 lb dumbells at handlebar height and pronate and supinate, crossing arms, turning torso left to right, squatting and lunges, mimicking much of the riding movements, for about 10 minutes a night watching TV.

I only do this for sledding.

 

[hibshman25]

MPS eliminates front to rear balancing act. You can keep weight on the front end so skis bite and turn it with one hand. It really is the solution and there are many post on the forum backing the product. I've had numerous customers at the point of going back to an EPS apex/vector until they installed MPS. When guys call and are on the fence I tell them you can send it back if you don't like it. Needless to say no one has tried it and sent it back!