SnoXer18
Extreme
I think the snowmobile is just operating more efficiently. When it wasn't bouncing off the rev limiter did you notice it was taking less throttle to go through the snow than it used to?
With the stock approach angle the track is always trying to climb uphill to get to the top of the snow. By setting the skid back the approach angle is decreased and the "hill" that the track has to climb is not as steep.
The 151" also has more floatation which means it wont' be producing as much of a trench. If the phazer is leaving a 2.5' trench behind it all that snow is going somewhere. If the 151" only leave an 18" trench it's only displacing 60% of the snow as stock and with a shallower approach angle. That means it should in fact free up power and cause you to over-rev.
When you are WOT is the shift RPM staying steady or does it increase/decrease? ie. does it snap to 11,500 and then creep to rev limit or does it snap to rev limit? The secondary spring tension helps control the shift profile. If rpms creep up through the shift you need less tension to allow it to upshift faster.
It sounds like your shift RPM is just too high in general, therefore I would conclude you need more pinweight/rivets.
With the stock approach angle the track is always trying to climb uphill to get to the top of the snow. By setting the skid back the approach angle is decreased and the "hill" that the track has to climb is not as steep.
The 151" also has more floatation which means it wont' be producing as much of a trench. If the phazer is leaving a 2.5' trench behind it all that snow is going somewhere. If the 151" only leave an 18" trench it's only displacing 60% of the snow as stock and with a shallower approach angle. That means it should in fact free up power and cause you to over-rev.
When you are WOT is the shift RPM staying steady or does it increase/decrease? ie. does it snap to 11,500 and then creep to rev limit or does it snap to rev limit? The secondary spring tension helps control the shift profile. If rpms creep up through the shift you need less tension to allow it to upshift faster.
It sounds like your shift RPM is just too high in general, therefore I would conclude you need more pinweight/rivets.
boondoggle
Extreme
I like the "more efficient with this track" theory. I haven't ridden in deep snow yet so I can't yet make that comparison. Iether way I think some rivets are going to be needed. I don't think it's creeping up to 12k plus. I think its jumping right right up there. I plan on riding tommorrow. I'll most likely have dry packed powder trails and some deeper dry powder to experiment with. I'll see what happens. My buddy's stock phazer is not overrevving in the same conditions so I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to make some adjustments.
yzman
Expert
I just swapped the 17 top back to my old 19 top tooth and it works better for my nitrous , rpms are more settle . Still rips hard
boondoggle
Extreme
Well I guess it was all a false alarm. Got out today for my first proper ride with the 151. Found some deep snow and packed trails. Rpms were good. Stayed right around 11600 wide open. Was really only hitting the rev limiter if the track was off the snow. I'm glad. I really didn't want to start messing with weights. I know it's pretty easy but time is limited. I just don't want to lose riding time on wrenching. I guess I was over revving that first time out because the stuff I was riding in was so light and thin and icy underneath. No hookup at all.
As for the 151: Excellent. Others have said this makes the sled what it should have been from the factory. I agree. It just works so much better.
As for the 151: Excellent. Others have said this makes the sled what it should have been from the factory. I agree. It just works so much better.
yzman
Expert
I have a shim for my primary spring to make a higher engagement . And a new helix from schmidt bros . Not sure of the angle . But i removed the shim because i was revving to high . Also with the helix setting was on c2 . I loved the power it had, but i couldn't pin it because of over revving , so i set it back to b1 . So i have a concern . If i swap out my weights for a heavier set add some rivets . Add shim and swap back to c2 or possibly higher . Control rpms to 11000+ . Would i have more power getting to the ground ?
I believe so.Its said to control the rpms with primary.If done with secondary its a power loss but I believe belt pressure is what causes the loss so not sure about a Helix?
yzman
Expert
higher engagement shim, plus C2 on the secondary . I was at 12 500 not even at full throttle . Thats with stock 40 gram weight, With both holes filled with 4.5 gram rivets . I removed the shim(stock) and put the secondery setting back on b1(stock) . Now im at 11 200-500 . But i noticed its more sluggish feeling . The clutch kit woke it up alot but the rpm was crazy high . I want that power back! . Freeing up 5 hp at the track will feel the same as adding 10-15 hp to the engine for sure . Im thinking hard about rtx weights in my mtx plus that shim and secondary adjustments. Aim for 11000 , That way i have 1500 rpm left for my nitrous .
