
hondo
VIP Member
Has this happened to anyone else? If not, heads up!
The pivot arm (part #8FK-47332-00-00) drab green in color, that the black spring blocks are attached to, and wraps around the rear transfer rods, tore down and apart. #43 on the schematic.
Below the holes on part #43 there is a weld seam. Upon closer inspection, it appears a hair line fracture coupled with some worn shims started this whole event. It is clearly evident there was some rust in the crack which probably started the weakening process and overtime the weld seam failed.
When the pivot arm tore at the weld seam, the pivot arm braket separated and the whole suspension collapsed. It sounded like you hit a cymbal with a hammer. The springs came loose from the spring blocks, and the back end of the sled looked like a low rider.
Rolled the sled on its side could not believe what I saw.
I bent the metal bracket back up in place as best as I could. I had a thin luggage strap with me and wrapped it around the bracket and transfer rods to prevent the bracket from tearing back down. I then limped the sled (about 2 miles) back to the Lakeview Restaurant in St Agatha, Maine.
The boys at the dealership didn't know what caused the metal fatigue. They think the heavier spring that was installed to prevent two-up bottoming may have contibuted to the problem. The heavy spring was installed at 5,780 miles. The bracket failed at 7,365 miles.
I have a strong feeling that a combination of rust and a weakened weld caused the failure.
The pivot arm was covered under Yamaha's Extended Service plan.
It's hard to inspect that part of the sled on a daily basis.
There has been other discussion on the board regarding rust observed around weld seam joints.
It may be prudent to carry something with you such as duct tape, a thin strap with buckle, or some wire, so you can perform a "Maguiver" in order to prevent an extended stay in the woods.
Currently have 7,702 miles on the sled and going for 10,000 or more this year.
Just wanted to inform the board of this potential problem.
A special thanks to Maddogjeff for providing the schematic, correct terminology, and part number for me, in order to accurately write this post.
In order to veiw the schematic you must log in.
The pivot arm (part #8FK-47332-00-00) drab green in color, that the black spring blocks are attached to, and wraps around the rear transfer rods, tore down and apart. #43 on the schematic.
Below the holes on part #43 there is a weld seam. Upon closer inspection, it appears a hair line fracture coupled with some worn shims started this whole event. It is clearly evident there was some rust in the crack which probably started the weakening process and overtime the weld seam failed.
When the pivot arm tore at the weld seam, the pivot arm braket separated and the whole suspension collapsed. It sounded like you hit a cymbal with a hammer. The springs came loose from the spring blocks, and the back end of the sled looked like a low rider.
Rolled the sled on its side could not believe what I saw.
I bent the metal bracket back up in place as best as I could. I had a thin luggage strap with me and wrapped it around the bracket and transfer rods to prevent the bracket from tearing back down. I then limped the sled (about 2 miles) back to the Lakeview Restaurant in St Agatha, Maine.
The boys at the dealership didn't know what caused the metal fatigue. They think the heavier spring that was installed to prevent two-up bottoming may have contibuted to the problem. The heavy spring was installed at 5,780 miles. The bracket failed at 7,365 miles.
I have a strong feeling that a combination of rust and a weakened weld caused the failure.
The pivot arm was covered under Yamaha's Extended Service plan.
It's hard to inspect that part of the sled on a daily basis.
There has been other discussion on the board regarding rust observed around weld seam joints.
It may be prudent to carry something with you such as duct tape, a thin strap with buckle, or some wire, so you can perform a "Maguiver" in order to prevent an extended stay in the woods.
Currently have 7,702 miles on the sled and going for 10,000 or more this year.
Just wanted to inform the board of this potential problem.
A special thanks to Maddogjeff for providing the schematic, correct terminology, and part number for me, in order to accurately write this post.

In order to veiw the schematic you must log in.