snownutz
Expert
Will be installing a set for sure this off season plus hopefully a turbo finally.
Just like Porsche....there is no substitute 
Air-frame boards...
Air-frame boards...
Dimebag
TY 4 Stroke God
Those boards looks really good mtdream!
I have got to get my hands on one of these.. I am also having trouble in the pow with snow packing up on the boards. The Air Frames looks fantastic
I have got to get my hands on one of these.. I am also having trouble in the pow with snow packing up on the boards. The Air Frames looks fantastic
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
spent last week in the snowys and
have trimed @ 1" off the board outside
and cut the rear off
and the boards still SUCK!!!
snow just packs in the foot well & boards!
OH Santa I need some Air Boards
have trimed @ 1" off the board outside
and cut the rear off
and the boards still SUCK!!!
snow just packs in the foot well & boards!
OH Santa I need some Air Boards
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
The down side to installing the airframe running boards on an 08 or 09 is that you're stuck with the same rotten 6 degree running board angle because of the way they mount. The tunnel still looks like a grain shovel.
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
I take it you are talking about the angle from front to rear
on the tunnel?
can I mount the air boards at the better angle and build a different attachment? maybe use aluminum angle or something and attach it to the tunnel??
or maybe build new sides for the tunnel
on the tunnel?
can I mount the air boards at the better angle and build a different attachment? maybe use aluminum angle or something and attach it to the tunnel??
or maybe build new sides for the tunnel
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
Yes, you're right. If the top of the tunnel is level the angle of the running boards denotes the taper angle. The 08-09 MTXs have a taper of a mere 6 degrees. Most mountain tunnels come in at about 10 degrees. Fixing the earlier Nytros requires: 1. increasing the taper angle of the running boards. 2. Narrowing running boards somewhat towards the rear. 3. Replace the OEM drop brackets. 4. Strengthen and clean up the tunnel extension to match the new taper.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
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- 5,346
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- www.ulmerracing.com
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
I have 1 set of Air Frame boards available for a 2010 or newer FX Nytro. I also am in the process of putting a set of Air Frame boards on a 2008 chassis right now (these are the newer style boards so I am changing the angle of the boards to the updated angle). This sled will have 162" M20 in it, so I will use a piece of aluminum angle iron to attach the rear portion I left of the tunnel which will attach to the back of the running boards, tunnel, and suspension mount bolt as well.
interesting, nice pics allen!!!
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,346
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
This sled started out as a 2008 RTX model, so it is a little different than an MTX. I have a MTX to convert over to the newer style Air Frame boards as well which I will be doing after this project is done.
I left about 6" of lip in the front so I can rivet the Air Frame boards down to the lip, like Skinz wants you to originally. In the middle I completely cut off the lip as it was hanging substantially lower than my new running board angle was. I will rivet into the inside tube of the Air Frame boards from the side, instead of the bottom here. In the back I will machine an aluminum mount to tie the rear portion of the Air Frame boards, tunnel, and rear arm suspension bolt all into one unit (you can see the section of tunnel I left yet).
I left about 6" of lip in the front so I can rivet the Air Frame boards down to the lip, like Skinz wants you to originally. In the middle I completely cut off the lip as it was hanging substantially lower than my new running board angle was. I will rivet into the inside tube of the Air Frame boards from the side, instead of the bottom here. In the back I will machine an aluminum mount to tie the rear portion of the Air Frame boards, tunnel, and rear arm suspension bolt all into one unit (you can see the section of tunnel I left yet).
Really cool to see the pics on this!
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
macnytro
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 72
nice job Allen, please keep us posted on your progress & some more pics.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,346
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
A few more pictures, running boards are finished on this sled, just waiting on some other parts to finish it up yet. Ask if you have any questions.
Inside showing rivet line.
Under the front showing the lip I left, I did heat up the lip and formed it up tight against the running board.
How it looks finished.
Running board angle is about the same as the rear tunnel extesion and identical to the 2010 + MTX sleds.
Traction screws and all installed.
Inside showing rivet line.
Under the front showing the lip I left, I did heat up the lip and formed it up tight against the running board.
How it looks finished.
Running board angle is about the same as the rear tunnel extesion and identical to the 2010 + MTX sleds.
Traction screws and all installed.
Awesome!!! Looks great. What model airframes?
