NWT RX-1
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I see the last step in an oil change is to loosen the oil gallery bolt, check for oil and retighten.
Where is this bolt located? Is this only to be done if you are concerned about oil pressure, or each oil change? It seems there is no oil pressure gage on the sled, so I'm guessing after each oil change?
Also, what is the oil capacity for an oil change with filter. The book I have says 3.0 L, however I have that in it now and it isn't at the F mark.

Where is this bolt located? Is this only to be done if you are concerned about oil pressure, or each oil change? It seems there is no oil pressure gage on the sled, so I'm guessing after each oil change?
Also, what is the oil capacity for an oil change with filter. The book I have says 3.0 L, however I have that in it now and it isn't at the F mark.


kinger
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That bolt is buried under the exhaust shield, you need to remove the tank, and some other things to get to it. You can tell it was designed for a motorcycle. If you search under my name in the tubro section I have a little how to buried in a long thread on oil circulation.
A easier way to verify oil pressure is open the dip stick while its idling and verify you see oil movement. Give a quick rev to 4000 rpm and it should be clear oil is pumping then you knwo yoru good.
Capacity with filter during a change is 3.2 qts. Total capacity is 4 qts.
A easier way to verify oil pressure is open the dip stick while its idling and verify you see oil movement. Give a quick rev to 4000 rpm and it should be clear oil is pumping then you knwo yoru good.
Capacity with filter during a change is 3.2 qts. Total capacity is 4 qts.
NWT RX-1
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Concern about oil quantity
I have added 3 liters of oil, which is the equivalent amount you stated in quarts/pints. The oil still doesn't come up high enough on the dipstick. I ran it for a couple of minutes and no change. Im worried I may have done damage, as I did this before your suggestion of watching for oil circulation in the oil tank. The level didn't drop on the dipstick when run an there was no low oil warning. I'm concerned about running it again to look for oil movement in the tank. Any suggestions?
How is it, I can have added the correct amount of oil to the oil tank, and still not have it reading correctly. Any ideas?
I have added 3 liters of oil, which is the equivalent amount you stated in quarts/pints. The oil still doesn't come up high enough on the dipstick. I ran it for a couple of minutes and no change. Im worried I may have done damage, as I did this before your suggestion of watching for oil circulation in the oil tank. The level didn't drop on the dipstick when run an there was no low oil warning. I'm concerned about running it again to look for oil movement in the tank. Any suggestions?
How is it, I can have added the correct amount of oil to the oil tank, and still not have it reading correctly. Any ideas?
NWT RX-1
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I also posted this in the Turbo area as I thought I may also get some good advice there. There is a similar problem also posted there.
I have the same problem, although I didn't have the knowledge at the time to check for circ in the tank. I did an oil change and figured the oil gang bolt was too hard to get to. I'm only reading below E on the dip stick, however have added 3L of oil already. I've run it for a couple of minutes (didn't know to look in the oil tank for circulation).
I'm concerned about running it again with out knowing oil is being circulated. I'm also concerned it may not be circulating.
I'm not sure I followed the oil change procedure properly. I see now it says add 2L of oil, then install diptstick and cyl head cap. The it is confusing
Inspect engine and oil tank for leaks
Inspect engine oil level - Refer to Engine Oil Inspection
Inspect engine Oil Pressure - talks about losten oil gang bolt etc.
Why only add 2L of oil to the tank, when the oil change requires 3L?
Where does the extra 1L of oil go that I added. It says add 2L above, but I've added 3L, and still no full on the dipstick.
If I remove the oil filter and it has oil in it, then I would guess that the oil is circulating. Can anyone confirm this?
As you can see, I'm confused about what's happening here, and also very concerned I may have done damage already by running with out knowing oil is circulating. I'm not used to Bike engines, only to vehicles, so I've never had to deal with the oil tank situation, and have always had a oil pressure gage to know things are ok.
Your comments/assistance is greatly appreciated.
I have the same problem, although I didn't have the knowledge at the time to check for circ in the tank. I did an oil change and figured the oil gang bolt was too hard to get to. I'm only reading below E on the dip stick, however have added 3L of oil already. I've run it for a couple of minutes (didn't know to look in the oil tank for circulation).
I'm concerned about running it again with out knowing oil is being circulated. I'm also concerned it may not be circulating.
I'm not sure I followed the oil change procedure properly. I see now it says add 2L of oil, then install diptstick and cyl head cap. The it is confusing
Inspect engine and oil tank for leaks
Inspect engine oil level - Refer to Engine Oil Inspection
Inspect engine Oil Pressure - talks about losten oil gang bolt etc.
Why only add 2L of oil to the tank, when the oil change requires 3L?
Where does the extra 1L of oil go that I added. It says add 2L above, but I've added 3L, and still no full on the dipstick.
If I remove the oil filter and it has oil in it, then I would guess that the oil is circulating. Can anyone confirm this?
As you can see, I'm confused about what's happening here, and also very concerned I may have done damage already by running with out knowing oil is circulating. I'm not used to Bike engines, only to vehicles, so I've never had to deal with the oil tank situation, and have always had a oil pressure gage to know things are ok.
Your comments/assistance is greatly appreciated.

kinger
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Your not doing any damage to the engine, I have a oil pump issue and have run the engine for over 1.5 minutes and no issues.
Start it up and run it at 4000 rpm while looking in the hole where the dipstick goes (yes you will have the senser disconnected and hole open while its running) At 4000 rpm you should see movement in the oil tank. It wont be a lot but it will be some. If you see that then add oil till it gets to full.
When you drained it did you drain both the oil pan and the oil tank? It will take over 3 qts with a filter change and drain.
Start it up and run it at 4000 rpm while looking in the hole where the dipstick goes (yes you will have the senser disconnected and hole open while its running) At 4000 rpm you should see movement in the oil tank. It wont be a lot but it will be some. If you see that then add oil till it gets to full.
When you drained it did you drain both the oil pan and the oil tank? It will take over 3 qts with a filter change and drain.
NWT RX-1
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Thank you again for your assistance.
I have filled the tank with over 3 liters of oil. I did drain both the oil tank and the pan. This would be 2.8 quarts. From what I can tell, reading, this is the amount I should need to do an oil change with filter change. The book says this is the correct amount and the procedure calls for draining the pan and the tank.
I would expect that I can confirm that oil is circulating if I unscrew the new oil filter and it has some oil in it? Do you know if this is true?
I have filled the tank with over 3 liters of oil. I did drain both the oil tank and the pan. This would be 2.8 quarts. From what I can tell, reading, this is the amount I should need to do an oil change with filter change. The book says this is the correct amount and the procedure calls for draining the pan and the tank.
I would expect that I can confirm that oil is circulating if I unscrew the new oil filter and it has some oil in it? Do you know if this is true?

kinger
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No that is not neccesarily true. If you want pull the larger black hose off that goes to the oil tank while its running and if your pumping oil it will come out all over.
I wonder about the capacities listed in the manual seems mine would have taken 5 qts pretty easily after my engine pull (so it was bone dry manual says 4 qts)
Only thing you need to concern yourself with is that its circulating and its on F after the oil has warmed up (remember oil level will rise when its warm).
I wonder about the capacities listed in the manual seems mine would have taken 5 qts pretty easily after my engine pull (so it was bone dry manual says 4 qts)
Only thing you need to concern yourself with is that its circulating and its on F after the oil has warmed up (remember oil level will rise when its warm).