obile
Pro
first trip on 07 mtn with mpi s/c. running 6 to8 thousand feet. al from mpi suggested mode 1-.5
2-5
3-5
4-4.5
5-2.5
6-1.5
imhaving to work the throttle off idle toget it to rev cant hammer down off idle without popping and backfiring. what setting are people running on this setup? also using the stock springs and weights with 3 rivets in them. dont know what they are came with the kit.. they are same # as stock with 3 solid rivets. hits rev limiter almost instantly half to three quarter throttle but pulls like a freight train
wow what a rush! i need some setup help with this kit. also for the limited amount of time i can look at the boost gauge its pulling up to 16 lbs of boost instantly then i think it pulls down to10 i think... hard to keep an eye on it that long cause everything in front of you starts rushing up pretty fast i also tore all the cogs off the belt. belt too tight? tore them off at45 miles. how tight to adjust any setup help on this would be appreciated. posted on sw also seems to be a ton of low elevation s/c on here with lots of info just trying to get this thing running right. man when it does WHAT A BLAST!!!!!! thanks
2-5
3-5
4-4.5
5-2.5
6-1.5
imhaving to work the throttle off idle toget it to rev cant hammer down off idle without popping and backfiring. what setting are people running on this setup? also using the stock springs and weights with 3 rivets in them. dont know what they are came with the kit.. they are same # as stock with 3 solid rivets. hits rev limiter almost instantly half to three quarter throttle but pulls like a freight train
wow what a rush! i need some setup help with this kit. also for the limited amount of time i can look at the boost gauge its pulling up to 16 lbs of boost instantly then i think it pulls down to10 i think... hard to keep an eye on it that long cause everything in front of you starts rushing up pretty fast i also tore all the cogs off the belt. belt too tight? tore them off at45 miles. how tight to adjust any setup help on this would be appreciated. posted on sw also seems to be a ton of low elevation s/c on here with lots of info just trying to get this thing running right. man when it does WHAT A BLAST!!!!!! thanks
onrof
Extreme
do you have a stage one or two? you better have some fuel system mods to push 16lbs
5280ft
Veteran
Obile,
I have a season under my belt w/ my stage 1 kit. I love it although there have been some issues. I also lost a belt right off the bat, and was told I had it too loose and I should run it almost rubberband tight. I then ran that belt from 35 miles up to 288 on the Odom. Then that belt let loose. Turned grey and shiny, became brittle and stripped the inner cogs right off the outer belt housing. Left the belt on with no cogs on the inside. Sounds familiar to yours...?
Clutching...That's a whole nuther animal! We found and are still finding out that the clutching changes greatly as the motor breaks in.
Last year at Fairview, UT (500 miles on sled) I ran stock springs with a .40 shim in the primary and weights were at approx. 86 grams. Worked great with drag racing and moderate hills, but fell off on rpm on the steep stuff. Dropping the weight off the tips down to 83 grams worked great on the steep, but the sled hits the REV limiter on drags.
I am still playing to get the perfect set-up. I can also tell you that the sled would probably not have pulled this set-up prior to the 450 to 500 mile mark. You'll notice stages as it breaks in...
Hope this helps.
By the way, some of the guy's are running super tips in their sleds and say they have had great results. I have a set, but have yet tested with them. Still stock with heavy rivots (make your own or buy the tungsten steel ones from MPI).
I have a season under my belt w/ my stage 1 kit. I love it although there have been some issues. I also lost a belt right off the bat, and was told I had it too loose and I should run it almost rubberband tight. I then ran that belt from 35 miles up to 288 on the Odom. Then that belt let loose. Turned grey and shiny, became brittle and stripped the inner cogs right off the outer belt housing. Left the belt on with no cogs on the inside. Sounds familiar to yours...?
Clutching...That's a whole nuther animal! We found and are still finding out that the clutching changes greatly as the motor breaks in.
Last year at Fairview, UT (500 miles on sled) I ran stock springs with a .40 shim in the primary and weights were at approx. 86 grams. Worked great with drag racing and moderate hills, but fell off on rpm on the steep stuff. Dropping the weight off the tips down to 83 grams worked great on the steep, but the sled hits the REV limiter on drags.
I am still playing to get the perfect set-up. I can also tell you that the sled would probably not have pulled this set-up prior to the 450 to 500 mile mark. You'll notice stages as it breaks in...
Hope this helps.
By the way, some of the guy's are running super tips in their sleds and say they have had great results. I have a set, but have yet tested with them. Still stock with heavy rivots (make your own or buy the tungsten steel ones from MPI).
5280ft
Veteran
Oh ya, All of the MPI stage 1 sleds I have ridden instantly hit the 15 to 16 psi on boost for a 2 to 3 second hold then drops down. I think it is the initial surge reading before the pressure stabilizes in the intercooler...?
obile
Pro
its a stage 1 kit and its not supposed to be 16 pounds of boost. supposed to be set at ten with the pulleys i have. im sure the controller setup is wrong but wondering what to do?5280ft sounds exactly like what happened to my belt. but i did have it tight i was thinking too tight? im on and off the throttle and the boost pushing back through the s/c after chopping throttle with the crnk still spinning? is that what causes the belt to tear off the cogs? ill have to get another spare now anyone else having this belt problem and if so what did they do to remedy the problem? the weights i have in now are stock with 3 solid rivets. does it need more weight or something different?dont have a/f gauge yet and need a baseline safe setup for fuel controller as to not run too lean. i just need to keep it off the limiter and not backfire and stumble off idle.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
The only reason you have belt problems is because of clutching. Your clutches are most likely slipping causing the problems. I would contact Tom Hartman or Ulmer Racing, I believe Hartman has more mountain experiance but I could be totally wrong there. The SC kit should holeshot like stock with no problems what so ever off the line it should just be wack the throttle and go. For you elevation you may need to play with the accellerator pump settings to get it to take off properly. Hope this helps!
onrof
Extreme
I've got a stage 2 so i don't know your fuel settings.
When I hit the throttle the boost gauge always reads/goes to my current pully combination of 10.5lbs then stays there till my thumb backs off. In fact, my tach follows the boost gauge almost exactly, 5000rpm is 5lbs boost 8000 is 8 etc. Only spkes when i quickly let off the throttle.
I've gone through 8 of those 25 dollar 6008mgt20 belts over the last 3500 miles. The belt cogs get knocked off the acceleration side and start to skip over the sprocket just as soon as I run out of adjustment on the tightner. I don't think I would tear up the belts if only i was able to keep the adjustment "banjo" tight.
Made some changes to the adjuster over the summer so I'll see how it turns out.
When I hit the throttle the boost gauge always reads/goes to my current pully combination of 10.5lbs then stays there till my thumb backs off. In fact, my tach follows the boost gauge almost exactly, 5000rpm is 5lbs boost 8000 is 8 etc. Only spkes when i quickly let off the throttle.
I've gone through 8 of those 25 dollar 6008mgt20 belts over the last 3500 miles. The belt cogs get knocked off the acceleration side and start to skip over the sprocket just as soon as I run out of adjustment on the tightner. I don't think I would tear up the belts if only i was able to keep the adjustment "banjo" tight.
Made some changes to the adjuster over the summer so I'll see how it turns out.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
I have 2500 miles on the same belt from last winter. Rode all winter long on the same one.
rerod
Extreme
onrof said:
10.5 lbs on a stage 2??? That sucks. I have the stage one with the 10lb setup and at our elevation my runs 10lbs just crusing speed and holds 14-15lbs and full throttle. Also no problems with the belts, just throttle body blowing off under high boost.
Man guys sounds like lots of bugs yet??
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
SkyDog whats your elevation, I can assure you its 100% at sea level.
5280ft
Veteran
Obile,
I think the result of the popping and backfiring is/was a result of the SC belt going south on you. The new mapping would be too rich without the correct boost being put out by the SC. My sled did this behavior both times when the belt detiorated.
I also believe that what Hammer said regarding the location of the boost pick-up is a problem with the spike. Both mine and my buddies are taken from the inlet to throttle body side of the intercooler. We both get 15 to 16 psi spikes for a second or two w/ the stock pulley's from MPI. I know the scenario your talking about...WOT off the start and running down the trail and wicking it on...throttle bodies should be full open. A thrid sled I know does not have the psi spikes but different guage than we run and also taken split off the MPI full control boost hose..? So, I'm not sure his is right or wrong or ours is...?
Also, the backpressure does definitely work the back side of the drive cogs on the belt. And it does need some constant adjustment when new then it subsides some, but still needs and eye to be kept on it.
Also, I would like to know where Onro is buying the belts for $25 unless he is buying the cotton bound not the Kevlar bound, thus also could be why so many belts have failed...? Just a thought...
But is they are the Kevlar, please let me know. I usually pay about $48 for them through a local Gates distributor.
I think the result of the popping and backfiring is/was a result of the SC belt going south on you. The new mapping would be too rich without the correct boost being put out by the SC. My sled did this behavior both times when the belt detiorated.
I also believe that what Hammer said regarding the location of the boost pick-up is a problem with the spike. Both mine and my buddies are taken from the inlet to throttle body side of the intercooler. We both get 15 to 16 psi spikes for a second or two w/ the stock pulley's from MPI. I know the scenario your talking about...WOT off the start and running down the trail and wicking it on...throttle bodies should be full open. A thrid sled I know does not have the psi spikes but different guage than we run and also taken split off the MPI full control boost hose..? So, I'm not sure his is right or wrong or ours is...?
Also, the backpressure does definitely work the back side of the drive cogs on the belt. And it does need some constant adjustment when new then it subsides some, but still needs and eye to be kept on it.
Also, I would like to know where Onro is buying the belts for $25 unless he is buying the cotton bound not the Kevlar bound, thus also could be why so many belts have failed...? Just a thought...
But is they are the Kevlar, please let me know. I usually pay about $48 for them through a local Gates distributor.
onrof
Extreme
belt is the gates powergrip GTr2 6008mgt20 for 25 bucks. I buy them buy the case now.
