SD12. Dead

[jonlafon1]

This old post was helpful to me! Thanks

I just ordered the parts as i have the same problem

Its not to bad.. Patience!!! Lots of good LAGER on hand for after or in need of a break?

 

[beanie]

Okay got some more info. Thanks to Clutchmaster and canondale. The stator and crank sensor are one assembly. Got some numbers for testing. After lunch I will test for a failure. Got a electrical engineer up with me.
Thanks for reply guys. NO WAY it’s frozen. Or in need of a heated garage. I have 7500 miles on it and in every temp. Never seen a SD 12 before today. Will report back.

Do you have the ohm reading, for the winder pick up coil and stator and where to test . I m sitting with a sd-12 no start code ? thanks Beanie

 

[earthling]

0.15-0.24 ohms leg to leg on the stator
446-545 for the pickup coil

You can test the stator at the voltage regulator, disconnect the voltage regulator and measure between two legs at a time of the 3 white wires (1-2,2-3,1-3)

Follow the lead from the stator cover to the harness to find where it plugs in. Should be a light gray and a dark gray wire.

 

[74Nitro]

0.15-0.24 ohms leg to leg on the stator
446-545 for the pickup coil

You can test the stator at the voltage regulator, disconnect the voltage regulator and measure between two legs at a time of the 3 white wires (1-2,2-3,1-3)

Follow the lead from the stator cover to the harness to find where it plugs in. Should be a light gray and a dark gray wire.

I'll add that when they fail, they're almost always open, meaning no reading at all.

 

[Clintww]

Just had this problem with an Apex. Pick up was bad as stated above. I believe you find the assembly to be out of stock from Yamaha or Kimplex. Call Travis (BOP). He got me an after market pick up for 52 bucks with shipping. Just had to splice the two wires to reuse the original plug. These were in stock. I’m assuming the Apex and Sidewinder are compatible. Travis can help.

 

[beanie]

I'll add that when they fail, they're almost always open, meaning no reading at all.

That is indeed what I found , Pick -up coil took a #*$&@. Thanks for the info. At least it didn't leave me stranded this time or hauled in by a Doo again !

 

[beanie]

I’m up and running! Thank you Clutchmaster for your help, a nice warm garage and of coarse ALL TOOLS a guy could need. This is a pretty time consuming job. Took us 6-7 hours BUT we also cracked the chaincase for fun as Clutchmaster was dying to check my upper gear bushing! He was like a kid on Christmas morning just dying to tear open a present. So the exhaust has to come off. Oil has to be drained as you need the oil lines disconnected. Oil needs to be drained out of lower access panel also. This helps to prevent oil from contaminating your gasket. The cross brace needs to be removed which is in front of magneto case cover. 3 bolts the go from the turbo to this cross member were removed. 2 needed heat and one is behind the cross brace and kind of a hard one. It’s possible with a knuckle socket and some swearing or wait I mean some patients which I have less then Clutchmaster! No it’s true really! With the cross member removed the turbo Did remain on. Which I believe is a better option but hey their is more then one way to skin a Yamacat! Once you can get at the magneto cover then it’s removing bolts. 2 are black and have arrows on the cover as to where they get reinstalled. Theses 2 black bolts also need silicone and or the Grey Yamaha bond which is what we used. Once your ready to remove cover be prepared for the magnets to “play with you” some. We may have used different words. But you have to fight the magnets some when removing And installing the cover back on. ALSO two cylinder like posts/pegs that are on the seal area make sure to watch for these. With cover removed then it’s time to clean old gasket off. Fun! Removing the old parts from within the magneto case can be fun as they are VERY tight and have thread locker. The 2 bolts for the crank sensor had to be heated to be removed. We melted the sensor some but it was junk anyway. Installed new parts and used blue locker. IMPORTANT make sure the starter gear is in proper orientation when reinstalling cover as the pin which the gear is on sits in the cover. New gasket should also be purchased for install. Getting the cover back on onto pegs and starter gear pin can be a challenge. I tried a couple times and Clutchmaster finished the job. PATIENCES REQUIRED on the install for cover. Watch your fingers as the magnets want to pull the cover on very fast when you get close. The wire plug that comes out of case needs some silicon/Yamaha bond also when reinstalling.
O and the top gear bushing was about damn near perfect after 2500 miles. I think Clutchmaster was impressed and that’s not easy to do! He might just be switching chaincase lube. Any questions for someone down the road doing this install can surely reach out to Clutchmaster and or myself.

Did you use a knuckeled socket or adapters to get at the hidden turbo support bolt . I can't get at mine . Picture please ?

 

[jonlafon1]

Did you use a knuckeled socket or adapters to get at the hidden turbo support bolt . I can't get at mine . Picture please ?

This was a few years ago.. pretty sure we used common tools for this.. Sorry I can not recall exactly..

 

[Froggy]

Well I just got the the sd12 code and codes 1600, 1603 after letting sled sit for 2 weeks and attempting to go for a ride in very humid conditions. I'm getting conflicting readings from 2 different testers, with one tester I get .4 ohms on each leg and 1.1 mega ohms on the pick up while the other tester shows OL on each leg and 465 ohms on pick up. Going to have professional electrician with his Fluke take some real readings I hope but is there any relation with the sd12 and the 1600 and 1603 codes by any chance? Sled was parked under deck with factory cover for 2 weeks and now this happens and running perfect on last ride.

 

[cannondale27]

The SD 12 is for pickup coil not stator so should just concentrate on that to eliminate testing everything. I could be wrong but every single time I have ever seen the code whether on a j code or Yamacat it was in fact the pickup sensor. Also 90% of time it failed after a great trouble free ride and being parked for hrs. So when out riding try to limit food or bar time to less than 2 hrs at a time

 

[Froggy]

Well the machine is running now and I'm really at a loss to figure out what was wrong. Professional meter on the coil showed overload and we went through all the relays and fuses along with opening all the connections for the handlebar controls and I switched the main relay with the fuel pump relay which we knew was working as evident with the pump running. We left the meter connected to the coil and started to turn the engine over with the clutch and after a few rotations we started to see readings flash on and off on the meter, eventually the readings settled at 56,000 ohms which should indicated a bad coil. We left the fuse out for the handlebar warmers and the machine started up after a few attempts as we smelled gas so the throttle was pinned wide open and then she started up but 2 codes still there for the warmers since the fuse was out. The fuse for the warmers was popped in with the machine running and all codes are gone. We stopped and started it a couple times and everything seems ok but I don't trust the sled now. Thinking that I'm going to look for some better relays to see if that will work for the long term, any recommendations for relays anyone. Thanks for the input cannondale27.

 

[stgdz]

Heard the brake light shorts out on these and causing electrical gremlins.


It shouldn't be related but it may be worth a shot.

 

[Froggy]

Well I went for a ride and a few stops but before I got home the machine threw code sd-46 and the warmers weren't making much heat and when I tried to reverse into the garage it threw sd-8 and the volts were down to 9.7 which explains the codes but now what?

 

[earthling]

Have you changed the coil?

 

[Fords4life]

Well I went for a ride and a few stops but before I got home the machine threw code sd-46 and the warmers weren't making much heat and when I tried to reverse into the garage it threw sd-8 and the volts were down to 9.7 which explains the codes but now what?

Voltage regulator possibly, i have seen corosion (rust) between stator generating coils, lighting coils, the "air gap" between them and magnets in flywheel on small engines cause problems, pulled flywheel emery clothed ends of coils and inside flywheel and have returned voltage and spark....just a thought.