tnc110
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I've got an 01 srx with a mono skid. I'm trying to set sag, I've got two 100lb tractor weights on the ruining boards, as I am right at 200 with gear. It makes a big difference in the measurement if I measure just setting the weights on or if I set the weights on then press down on the rear bumper.
The skis are on concrete. ..they might be binding a bit.
Which method should I take the measurements, bouncing or just seeing weights on.
The skis are on concrete. ..they might be binding a bit.
Which method should I take the measurements, bouncing or just seeing weights on.
tnc110
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One other thing. I read that the stiffer the rear(less sag), the more ski pressure on a mono sled. Is this true?
I'm trying to lighten the ski pressure going into a turn, while breaking or maintaining speed. Right now it is a bear to steer. Going down to 4.5" shapers, from 9" shapers.
I'm trying to lighten the ski pressure going into a turn, while breaking or maintaining speed. Right now it is a bear to steer. Going down to 4.5" shapers, from 9" shapers.
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One other thing. I read that the stiffer the rear(less sag), the more ski pressure on a mono sled. Is this true?
I'm trying to lighten the ski pressure going into a turn, while breaking or maintaining speed. Right now it is a bear to steer. Going down to 4.5" shapers, from 9" shapers.
Yes stiffer will make it lean forward... Slim Jim Dually will lesson the steering feel and remove any kind of darting.
tnc110
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Thanks. I'm going to try these 4.5s and if it's still tough I will try the duallys
hibshman25
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If you loosen the limiter strap it will take weight off the skis.
tnc110
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If you loosen the limiter strap it will take weight off the skis.
I loosened it one hole, but does this only help when accelerating? My problem is mostly going into a turn.
I guess I am getting a lot of ski lift through turns as well....
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I loosened it one hole, but does this only help when accelerating? My problem is mostly going into a turn.
I guess I am getting a lot of ski lift through turns as well....
It will let out front more when on the gas.. I would loosen the front ski springs to get the sled to sit in more so it can work the sway bar faster and then I would crank the transfer rod to less transfer.
kviper
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The way Yamaha says to set the ride height on the amono is to lift the sled off the ground, measure the spring, put sled on the ground and measure spring again with you siting on the sled in normal seating position in full gear. The spring should compress 40/45mm with you on it.
kviper
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So to answer your question I would say no bounce.
engineman
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I measure on the Mono the same way I measure my sport bikes - Like above first measure the spring length with the rear of the sled lifted. Next sit on the sled with riding gear on and have a helper SLOWLY lift the rear bumper and slowly release. Take another measurement. Then, while still sitting on the sled have the helper push DOWN on the bumper and SLOWLY release so the suspension rebounds on it's own. Take another measurement. Then average the two last measurements and subtract from the first measurement and that is your sag.
Doing the loaded measurement two times and averaging takes out the stiction factor inherent to suspensions.
YMMV..... ;-)
Good Luck!
Steve
Doing the loaded measurement two times and averaging takes out the stiction factor inherent to suspensions.
YMMV..... ;-)
Good Luck!
Steve
Well the mono skid was introduced in 05 on the RX-1 which was a MUCH heavier sled (150 lbs). Unless the shock spring weight has been changed none of the book settings are going to work. The 01 SRX had about 4" of travel after the set in and this will have closer to 8". Even with set in adjusted to book the sled is still pointing down hill to the front adding ski pressure. letting the limiter out several holes may help but I think you are going to have to find a lighter skid shock spring. On the old style NO -action you could add shock pressure to the front skid shock to lessen ski pressure but the mono is much more difficult to attain front end lift.
tnc110
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Well the mono skid was introduced in 05 on the RX-1 which was a MUCH heavier sled (150 lbs). Unless the shock spring weight has been changed none of the book settings are going to work. The 01 SRX had about 4" of travel after the set in and this will have closer to 8". Even with set in adjusted to book the sled is still pointing down hill to the front adding ski pressure. letting the limiter out several holes may help but I think you are going to have to find a lighter skid shock spring. On the old style NO -action you could add shock pressure to the front skid shock to lessen ski pressure but the mono is much more difficult to attain front end lift.
My srx has a long travel front with Fox Float 3 evol custom valved for the srx. I can jack the front up some if need be. Im going to set it about 2" higher than stock to start with. Last year I had a set of rx1 ohlins up front and I think they were way too stiff. Even with the knobs turned out all the way and zero preload, sled would not bottom on big moguls. Sled did not hook up very well compared to the stock srx front shocks. I'm guessing because the front was too high maybe???
I've made a lot of changes this year, including switching from 9" shapers to 4.5" shapers. Softer front shocks. Let the limiter strap out one hole (max now) Added a few more ponies with case porting. I have a lot of dialing in to do!
What sucks is, how much ski alignment changes as the suspension height changes.
The rear would bottom with the standard oem mono spring.
Yes the trailing arm suspension hated ride height chances do to the geometry also the skis will toe in during colapse when you add more travel to it than it was designed for. You'll just have to play with it and see what works best
actionjack
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I had too much pre-load set on my Attak with Hygear dual rate setup and it rode good except it was a bucking bronco on big stuff. It definitely put too much pressure on skis and increase angles of my A-Arms noticeably.
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