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shocks or m-10

Guess I'm one of the few that like the pro active skid. That rear shock has to go though if you keep it as it pretty much does nothing at all. I like mine with the rear Ohlins and adjustments made for the rough stuff, but I hear of lighter riders having ride issues.

My last sled was a pro action skid and I don't think I'd suffer through one of those again.
 

I ride quite aggressively on very rough trails, so the stock Vector setup was definitely not right for me.

I added an Ohlin rear shock and revalved and resprung the center shock to be much stiffer. Problem solved. Bruce at Pioneer did the center shock rebuild. He swapped out the stock piston to a stiffer one and I added a 150#/in spring.

I run my rear springs on H with a small amount of weight transfer on rough trails. When the trails are smooth, I change my rear springs to M and dial in more weight transfer.

I beleive it is very tough to try to duplicate settings recommended by other people. You really have to take the risk and try different setups for yourself until you find a combination that works for YOU. It might be helpful to describe EXACTLY what you do not like about your ride quality and accurately describe the trail conditions and your riding style. With this info and a fundamental understanding of your suspension, you can make better decisions on what part of the suspension to change first. The fundamental suspension understanding is where forums like TY are a great resource...

So, I'd be happy to help. What is it specifically that you do not like about your ride?
 
Sure , that's easy 100% no rebound controll at all you come up out of a hole onto the next bump and it feels like it's going to throw me right over the bars like an older ZR series Cat.

If you soften up the spring setting to get rid of that then it sags down and has no travel .

I removed the anti bottom stoppers and that did help some.

In our typical frozen trail chatter it transfers lots of pain to my back compared to a monoshock.

it is much better at not bottoming than the monoshock on bigger stuff and much better overall than the No Action was.

It's interesting how some want it stiffer . WE pounded it last year on one real nasty section and it was great as is . Actually stayed on trail better than an F7 snowpro which was so stiff that it was basically trying to skip off the tops and into the trees. I would think stiffer would be much worse.
The standard f7 in our group was much better on the same section , with the Vector in between.

handling is fine as is no ski lift or anything for me.

I'm debating between the shock upgrade or replacing the whole thing because I also need all new wheels etc in the skid which puts my total cost probably half way to that of an m-10.
 
srvfan said:
Sure , that's easy 100% no rebound controll at all you come up out of a hole onto the next bump and it feels like it's going to throw me right over the bars like an older ZR series Cat.
Click to expand...

That's good info...

What you described is exactly one of my orignal complaints with the Proactive.

You absoluteyl have to replace the rear damper! I chose the Ohlin clicker which solved the lack of rear rebound dampening. Those torsion springs need a lot of dampening after they load up and will toss you right off the seat on rebound if you don't upgrade this area. I found the Ohlin to be perfect EXCEPT I do have to run it on almost full dampening which gives me no additional dampening if I did need it. When it's time for a rebuild, I will make it stiffer.

Anyhow, after I replaced the rear dampener with the Ohlin, I transfered the problem to the center shock. I found that the center shock was too soft and the sled would collapse around the center of ther sled almost tossing me over the handlebars. So... To fix this you need to stiffen up the center shock with a 4-slot piston and a stiffer spring. I went with and XTC 157#/in spring whcih is a Yamaha part and only runs $40. It fit fine with no binding.

I took off the anti-bottoming stoppers as well as pulling the limiter straps up 1 hole from full slack.

This sled is obviously not as plush in slower riding, but if you want to pound the sled through the bumps, this setup I came up with is AWESOME. There is one word of caution, however... I found that I could make the ride more plush by dialing in a lot of transfer on the rear control rods while still keeping the better big bump characteristcs solved by the above shock changes, BUT this puts too much stress on the front W-arm and you WILL shear off the arm. I had to replace my W-arm and beef it up to prevent this from happening again. When you dial in more transfer, you cause the front shock to do more work and it is linked via the W-Arm, so that it why it can break. So, beware to run very little transfer in the big bumps despite the "plusher" feeling you get.

In big bumps I run the rear springs on H. On smoother trails, I run them on M.

After all this, my only complaint is the front shocks which I still run stock. Sometime if I land nose low, they bottom out. I just need to stiffen them up a bit and I'll be 100% happy with my Vector.

I posted quite abit about all these changes last year. Check out the RS forum to get more details...

Good luck,
Greg
 
garserio said:
You absoluteyl have to replace the rear damper!
Click to expand...

Exactly right. Just take it off and see how easily it pushes in and out by your hand. I was amazed. It isn't even gas charged! It does almost nothing at all, especially on rebound. The ohlins is the best thing I did for this skid IMO.
 
rear

Thanx for the tips guys!!! That used Rage suspension is it the mono or the old proaction style? did you pull it to put in the expertX?
 
I have also experienced severe bottoming-out. At 210 lbs., I was surprised this Vector rode so softly. My 440 PRO-X is awesome compared to this Yamaha. I installed the OHLINS rear clicker shock, Nytro torsion springs, Nytro center shock spring, GYT-R front clicker shocks. It rode so harsh that I wished I never bought it. This rear skid is so disappointing. It looks too simple in design. If it had a tipped-up tunnel I'd install a PRO-X unit. Right now I'M thinking maybe a newer SC-4. Either way, my feeling is, this thing was not designed to be ridden hard - until proven otherwise. By the way, my 440 PRO-X is a 2003 Fan. Best rear suspension EVER!!!
 
Litre1000 said:
I have also experienced severe bottoming-out. At 210 lbs., I was surprised this Vector rode so softly. My 440 PRO-X is awesome compared to this Yamaha. I installed the OHLINS rear clicker shock, Nytro torsion springs, Nytro center shock spring, GYT-R front clicker shocks. It rode so harsh that I wished I never bought it. This rear skid is so disappointing. It looks too simple in design. If it had a tipped-up tunnel I'd install a PRO-X unit. Right now I'M thinking maybe a newer SC-4. Either way, my feeling is, this thing was not designed to be ridden hard - until proven otherwise. By the way, my 440 PRO-X is a 2003 Fan. Best rear suspension EVER!!!
Click to expand...

You would have been better off installing an aftermarket skid of some sort. All you did by doing what you did is make the sled harsher, not smoother in the big bumps.

Like dweiss just posted, yjr Vector/Nytro are not good ditchbangers.
 
dwiese said:
Is it me or did people forget this isn't a "ditch banger"?
Click to expand...

Yeah my point exactly, it's a GROOMED TRAIL sled. I have struggled with the rear crashing hard on the big moguls also, just haven't decided what the best route to go is. I'll probably look into the new airwave suspension from FAST myself, I lost all confidence trying to get these skids to work and in the back of my mind if I replace all the shocks and springs then my w -arms will probably fail and the grease fittings haven't seemed too top notch either. I would say replacing the rear skid is probably the way to go.
 
It's not that I assumed it was a ditch banger. I just assumed it would be on par with the rear skid that you'd find in an EDGE chassis. Which is one step down from a PRO-X. This thing ain't even close! What I'd like to know is, is this thing a "falling rate" design or maybe a "straight rate" type. The way it reacted to the changes I made makes me think it's a straight rate design. Unfortunately, Yamaha won't respond. And as far as "groomed trails" goes, they all start out that way but never stay that way! So don't gimme that bull like I'm ignorant --PLEEEAAASSSEEE.
 
Litre1000 said:
This thing ain't even close! What I'd like to know is, is this thing a "falling rate" design or maybe a "straight rate" type. .
Click to expand...

this is a rising rate design like the Edge skid. but as you and I have found out, it can't be adjusted like the Edge, and needs too many mods to get even close to an Edge ride.

My style of riding is now better suited to a falling rate skid.....like an M-10 that;s going in my sled as soon as the mount kit gets here! ;)!
 
It's hard to believe this is a rising rate, with no accellerator rods "working" on the rear shock. The issue with the "W" arm breaking and the lack of gussets and overall "beefing - up" you'd find in competitor's designs. I ride with a group of veterans representing all brands. When they rode my sled, they didn't like the rear skid either. So, it's just not me! Even after all the mods, the fact remains - better, but not good. The Expert I installed in my big Polaris made it fun to ride, but to go to that extreme with this machine I really have to decide if this is something I want to keep. Because, once you start making all those holes in the tunnel, it'll be hard to go back to stock and find a buyer at resale time. And who wants to buy a modified sled?
 
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