Should I change Bearings or not

[fpeverly]

I have a 2006 Yamaha Attak And at 2200 Miles I changed the Bearing below secondary Clutch. Now the sled has 4300 miles and I dont know what other bearings I should change if any. Thanks for any info.

 

[NY_Nytro]

The chaincase bearings are probably fine as long as you changed the chaincase oil a few times during that 4300 miles.

The lower clutchside bearing is so easy to replace especially if you applied a little anti-sieze on the shaft the first time you replaced it, so I would change it.

The upper bearing requires more work so you could pull the seal off ond see what it looks like. If looks ok you could just clean it out and regrease it.

 

[fpeverly]

Thanks when you say upper you mean behind the secondary clutch. How do you get the seal off to clean

 

[TurboTime]

There is the drive shaft bearing and Jack shaft Bearing. Jackshaft is behind the secondary and the drive shaft is below the secondary behind the speedo. For the jack shaft, you can just remove the C clip located on the front ofthe bearing.

 

[Budweiser]

I didnt have to remove the C-clip on the upper bearing. The speedo bearing I replaced. Don't think I needed to. Sled has 6000 miles. When I took bearing out, it still had grease in it and spun fine. I cleaned it up and will keep as a spare.

 

[fpeverly]

Budweiser

Did you change the upper or did you just clean it.

 

[BA APEX]

Thanks when you say upper you mean behind the secondary clutch. How do you get the seal off to clean

click yamahamods link in my signiture below. the regrease procedure is there with pics.

 

[fpeverly]

What is the best way to remove the lower bearing. Any hints

 

[ReX]

What is the best way to remove the lower bearing. Any hints

That lower bearing is quite easy to change.

My method:

1. Remove left upper and lower side panels, belt and secondary clutch (single bolt).
2. Raise sled and loosen off track by 10 turns.
3. Remove set screws in bearing and 4 bolts holding bearing to the tunnel.
4. With the new bearing and anti-seize in arms reach and while holding the driveshaft against the track's "pull" with the other hand, slip off the bearing, put some anti-seize on the shaft and slip on the new bearing.
5. Reinstall the bits and pieces and you are done. Make sure you put purple loctite on the set screws if they don't have any (new set screws from Yamaha come with loctite already on them).

As long as the bearing isn't seized to the shaft it is only a 15 minute job. Working really fast, it might even be doable in 10 minutes.

 

[fpeverly]

When removing the bearing are you talking under sled or on the side by the clutch

 

[ReX]

When removing the bearing are you talking under sled or on the side by the clutch

It pulls off the side of the sled, not under the sled.

 

[Budweiser]

I only cleaned and repacked the upper. Most of the talk on this site says if its cleaned and regreased, it usually won't fail.

Rex is telling pretty much how the bottom bearing is done. My skid was out when I did it but it doesn't need to be. Just keep track of the washers and how they go on the secondary clutch.

good luck!

 

[yamadoo]

Thanks for all the info this site is great !

If replacing is it best to go with the OEM bearing or a quality bearing from bearing shop


Any difference in Price or quality?

Yamadoo

 

[rxrider]

Yes there is differences in pricing and quality. Yamaha uses NSF bearings but KOYO or even better SKF can be used. The drive shaft bearing is not unique for Yamaha, it's a UB205 bearing. Bring your bearing with you to a autoshop/bearing shop and have them find a match. You can also buy the very same bearing at any Polaris dealership for a fraction of the cost that Yamaha asks for the UB205 bearing (at least here in Norway)

 

[yamadoo]

Thanks RXrider, that is what I thought.
In the past I replaced a yamaha and Polaris same year, big difference in price yet looked like same bearing..........then again I am easilly fooled LOL

Yamadoo