Should I change the chain too?

[acpantera]

My 2022 Tcat has 8150mi on it now, I have made the decision replace my oem rip2 track with no studs, with the new Ice arrowhead 130 in the fall.
I'm putting together my shopping list and I'm undecided if I should change the chain or not. I have put the HD top gear and brass fork pads in already, and seeing the Tcats have larger sprockets than the Winders that may be less troublesome. I really only had to adjust the oem chain twice and I'm wondering if it will be reliable for another 8,000mi.
What say you?

 

[Simplespeed]

Take your chain and compare it next to a brand new one at a dealership and you will have your answer … Wear on chains depend on lube used, how the sled was ridden and how often that lube was changed…

 

[Srxspec]

For the price of a chain, just replace it. It'll be alot cheaper to change the chain than the whole chain case.

 

[acpantera]

I guess the safe thing is to change it, especially seeing that the new track is more aggressive and I'll be straining the drive train even more.
just needed to talk this out, looks like a chain is $160ish.

 

[STAIN]

At 8000 miles, if it is in your hand, replace it.
I would do both chaincase bearings and left side upper shaft bearing also. No better time

 

[acpantera]

Indeed

 

[Sevey]

Usually you can see how much the chain has stretched by how much adjustment on the tensioner you have to add.

I replaced mine at 15,000 km - and I was running out of adjustment.

Given its apart, I would change it out.
MS

 

[acpantera]

Usually you can see how much the chain has stretched by how much adjustment on the tensioner you have to add.

I replaced mine at 15,000 km - and I was running out of adjustment.

Given its apart, I would change it out.
MS

I would normally go by what's left of chain adjustment too, but at 13,000 km there is easily 60% of adjusting bolt left, and judging by the little back and forth rocking I get from the secondary the chain doesn't need much adjustment at all.
After talking here trying to save on a chain at this point is not smart when trying to stay reliable, I would probably drive my self nuts thinking about it while extended hard runs between 80 and 100mph on the big trails.

 

[Fleecer]

Yamaha used to have a spec for chains. The old SRXs/RX1s, and apexes had the service limit listed in the service manuel. If I recall correctly, you laid the chain out on the bench and measured 9 pins. Beyond a certain length, you were out of limit. However, as you mention, for piece of mind, I would change it

 

[acpantera]

Yamaha used to have a spec for chains. The old SRXs/RX1s, and apexes had the service limit listed in the service manuel. If I recall correctly, you laid the chain out on the bench and measured 9 pins. Beyond a certain length, you were out of limit. However, as you mention, for piece of mind, I would change it

That's how I ck my sealed roller chain on my motorcycle.

 

[Simplespeed]

I would normally go by what's left of chain adjustment too, but at 13,000 km there is easily 60% of adjusting bolt left, and judging by the little back and forth rocking I get from the secondary the chain doesn't need much adjustment at all.
After talking here trying to save on a chain at this point is not smart when trying to stay reliable, I would probably drive my self nuts thinking about it while extended hard runs between 80 and 100mph on the big trails.

Running top end and running 80 to 100 on extended hard runs is not alot of stress on a chain that is adjusted correctly because the design is such its engineered to stand up to the load with very few if any issues.. That is if you have a high quality sufficient lube to lubricate and keep the metal to metal friction to a minimum which keeps the chain running cool.. The problem that come into play is lack of proper adjustments, lack of maintenance on lube, continued hole shot, and increased power beyond normal design limits, along with wear beyond operation parameters. Any of these just mentioned can and will leave you to being towed or worst in a accident or stranded and walking. Your doing the right thing on maintenance….

 

[acpantera]

Running top end and running 80 to 100 on extended hard runs is not alot of stress on a chain that is adjusted correctly because the design is such its engineered to stand up to the load with very few if any issues.. That is if you have a high quality sufficient lube to lubricate and keep the metal to metal friction to a minimum which keeps the chain running cool.. The problem that come into play is lack of proper adjustments, lack of maintenance on lube, continued hole shot, and increased power beyond normal design limits, along with wear beyond operation parameters. Any of these just mentioned can and will leave you to being towed or worst in a accident or stranded and walking. Your doing the right thing on maintenance….

Yep.