Sidewinder Drive axle bearing failure.

[Snody]

Hello all, Looking for some guidance. I have a well setup 2017 sidewinder LTX LE with Turbo Dynamics multi map bundle and all supporting modifications for stage 6. The sled currently just passed 5,000 miles and I LOVE this sled. It has been a royal pain in the A$$ but worth the problems. With the hygear dual rate springs and Qs3r's I cant complain. But last week I had the drive axle bearing fail while riding about 20 miles from my truck. I am using Travis at Barn Of Parts driveshaft saver flush with 20 lb-ft of torque. I limped the sled back to my trailer. I purchased a new drive axle prior to taking the sled apart. After disassembly I used a micrometer to measure both the new and old shaft which the old shaft measure .001 larger than the new shaft. So I reinstalled the old shaft with a new bearing and retorqued the drive shaft saver being careful to still have rotor float. Fast forward one week and 280 miles later and I now had another bearing failure last night. Starting to loose hope. Any input?

 

[DMCTurbo]

Bad bearing? Did you buy a good one? I replaced my driveshaft last fall and have 50 ft/lbs on Travis' wedge and still have rotor float.

 

[towman]

what type of bearing failure ? knowing the way it failed will usually point to why it let go even a low grade bearing should last way longer then that

 

[STAIN]

Bearing failure is not too common. you may have another problem.

 

[Snody]

what type of bearing failure ? knowing the way it failed will usually point to why it let go even a low grade bearing should last way longer then that

Both times the balls from the bearing managed to push there way out through the dust cover.

 

[JayM]

Both times the balls from the bearing managed to push there way out through the dust cover.

That's not normal I don't think... Is the bearing on the chain case ok? Odd for the balls to come out unless there's a bunch of unusual movement and forces on that bearing.

 

[Snody]

That's not normal I don't think... Is the bearing on the chain case ok? Odd for the balls to come out unless there's a bunch of unusual movement and forces on that bearing.

Bearing on the chaincase side feels great when rotating by hand, appears not to have moved from being bottomed out in case. I am unsure what is happening. I had worn drivers on the original drive axle after 4800 miles. So instead of changing drivers I installed a newer drive axle that was removed from a 2019 thundercat of my friends with less than 75 miles on it(He extended the sled to 144 and 2.52 pitch). After changing the drive axle over I blew the first original bearing after 200 miles. So I replaced the bearing with a KML bearing and it only lasted the 280 miles mentioned above.

 

[JayM]

Bearing on the chaincase side feels great when rotating by hand, appears not to have moved from being bottomed out in case. I am unsure what is happening. I had worn drivers on the original drive axle after 4800 miles. So instead of changing drivers I installed a newer drive axle that was removed from a 2019 thundercat of my friends with less than 75 miles on it(He extended the sled to 144 and 2.52 pitch). After changing the drive axle over I blew the first original bearing after 200 miles. So I replaced the bearing with a KML bearing and it only lasted the 280 miles mentioned above.

Yeah that's not right, maybe review everything with a fine tooth comb, if the bearing or the bearing mount isn't firmly bolted and it allows movement then that would do damage.

The shaft of the Tcat should be the same so not likely that.

 

[ISLANDRACING]

Never heard of KML, but a quick search revealed it seems to be a cheap "economy" bearing and does not belong anywhere on the sled let alone used as a driveshaft bearing. Even the OEM PEER is a "china" bearing and I replaced it with a quality bearing before it even hit snow. I used a KOYO.

 

[Fleecer]

The BOP bearing saver needs to be put last.....after everything else is in its place. Is this how you installed?

 

[Snody]

The BOP bearing saver needs to be put last.....after everything else is in its place. Is this how you installed?

Never heard of KML, but a quick search revealed it seems to be a cheap "economy" bearing and does not belong anywhere on the sled let alone used as a driveshaft bearing. Even the OEM PEER is a "china" bearing and I replaced it with a quality bearing before it even hit snow. I used a KOYO.

Good to know. Thank you for the reply. I picked the bearing up from a big time sled shop well known on here located just across the border in Ontario.

 

[Snody]

The BOP bearing saver needs to be put last.....after everything else is in its place. Is this how you installed?

Yes drive shaft saver was the last item installed.

 

[Sevey]

Any chance you ran it with the bearing not seated on the shaft properly. Would put a ton of stress on the bearing and side of tunnel as it was running un-true?

ms

 

[Snody]

Any chance you ran it with the bearing not seated on the shaft properly. Would put a ton of stress on the bearing and side of tunnel as it was running un-true?

ms

I am open to suggestions. I am unsure of how I could have installed the driveshaft without being seated correctly. The bearing was pressed into caliper until it was flush with the bottom. Snap ring fit on both ends. If there is something I am missing in the installation procedure please elaborate. Thank you for the reply Sevey.

 

[JayM]

I am open to suggestions. I am unsure of how I could have installed the driveshaft without being seated correctly. The bearing was pressed into caliper until it was flush with the bottom. Snap ring fit on both ends. If there is something I am missing in the installation procedure please elaborate. Thank you for the reply Sevey.

This is obvious but the bearing mount is bolted back to tunnel properly and tight?