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Sidewinder Year to Year Performance

True story....
March of 2019 I was slated to take a 5 day saddlebag trip. The weather turned sour and the weatherman was calling for warm temps and rain. I cancelled my trip, but was stuck talking my vacation time.

The first day of my vacation it was raining and 40 degrees. With nothing else to do, I decided to run some tests between my two sleds. At the time, I had a 17 RTX SE and a new 19 SRX. It was raining, the railbed hadn't been groomed in days, so it looked like a washboard made of sugar and slush. Not conducive for speed, but still good enough to test/compare sleds.

Both sleds were box stock.....the way they were delivered to the dealer. During testing, the 17 RTX SE pulled 107 mph on the speedo. The SRX pulled 115 on the speedo, same place, same distance......... 8 mph faster.

I thought, "Wow, Yamaha really did their homework when upgrading the clutching for the 19 models!!". I pulled both clutches from the SRX and bolted them on the 17 RTX SE. I pulled both clutches from the RTX SE and bolted them on the SRX. I tested both again, same time, same place, same distance.

The SRX with 17 clutches still pulled 115 mph on the speedo. The 17 RTX SE with 19 SRX clutches still pulled 107mph on the speedo. Both clicked off the same speed as they had previously......yet with different clutches. At the time, I wondered, "Why is the SRX 8 mph faster?"

Years later, and after further extensive testing, I've come to the following conclusions: The 1 inch Ripsaw 1 track, which came factory on the SRX, nets an additional 6 mph over the 1.25 Ripsaw 2. The skid, frontend, and the overall design of the SRX nets an additional 2 mph gained for a total of 8 mph over the RTX.

Imagine a 1/2" speed track Glenn.... Just saying.
 

Thanks to all for comments and feedback its all good information for everyone… The longer the paddle the slower you will MPH in most conditions ( not all ) The 17, 18, 19 sidewinders were clutched better in stock form than the newer ones…
 
Concur bone stock, however.. cough, we have all discovered or own ways to pull more power out of these sleds over the years. Albeit through clutching, gearing or just brute power. It's really been a tremendous experience for myself learning from some of the most level headed, humble and knowledgeable human beings with one thing in common. Help one another to make these great sleds more enjoyable for us all in the long run.
 
Concur bone stock, however.. cough, we have all discovered or own ways to pull more power out of these sleds over the years. Albeit through clutching, gearing or just brute power. It's really been a tremendous experience for myself learning from some of the most level headed, humble and knowledgeable human beings with one thing in common. Help one another to make these great sleds more enjoyable for us all in the long run.

Great point Fatchance. Sometimes when traffic is slow on TY, I comb through the forums on Spacebook and acquire a renewed appreciation for this site. Some of the tricks they share there........I just chuckle and shake my head

Recently, there was a guy advertising a straight 35 helix, which upon installation will net 10% more top end mph. I read this and thought........Hmmmmm......If a guys sled hits 150mph, will the addition of this helix net 165mph? Is my math correct?

Why would a fool spend $5k on a big turbo, another $3500 on clutches, when this $130 helix will net better results? I'm assuming the installation of this helix magically adjusts the gear ratio in the chain case?

Should I order a case of these magical helixes?
 
Great point Fatchance. Sometimes when traffic is slow on TY, I comb through the forums on Spacebook and acquire a renewed appreciation for this site. Some of the tricks they share there........I just chuckle and shake my head

Recently, there was a guy advertising a straight 35 helix, which upon installation will net 10% more top end mph. I read this and thought........Hmmmmm......If a guys sled hits 150mph, will the addition of this helix net 165mph? Is my math correct?

Why would a fool spend $5k on a big turbo, another $3500 on clutches, when this $130 helix will net better results? I'm assuming the installation of this helix magically adjusts the gear ratio in the chain case?

Should I order a case of these magical helixes?
Dreamland… over the years we have all heard these types of claims … No different than the magical switch on some well known dyno’s that inflate the numbers… Speed is not cheap and when guys like you run the numbers you do , well you got our respect and admiration….
 
Imagine a 1/2" speed track Glenn.... Just saying.
How about a 14 inch wide track vs. the 15? Is there a speed difference there? I have seen a few 11oo turbo sleds running the 14 inch wide track for the lakes....
 
How about a 14 inch wide track vs. the 15? Is there a speed difference there? I have seen a few 11oo turbo sleds running the 14 inch wide track for the lakes....
YEs there is .
 
I cut mine up to the quiet pads, so the track measures 14.25 inches. If I could invent a way to nicely cut off the quiet pads I would, but the jury is still out.

I haven't been able to measure how much difference cutting the track makes, but I'll say......it doesn't slow it down.
 

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Glen,
I cut mine up to the quiet pads, so the track measures 14.25 inches. If I could invent a way to nicely cut off the quiet pads I would, but the jury is still out.

I haven't been able to measure how much difference cutting the track makes, but I'll say......it doesn't slow it down.
Glen, I've though about this before because i have heard of guys using a speed bit to relieve the stud heads. I think the tool that would work best would be an oscillating tool so it would basically melt through the rubber much like the core bit does when drilling for studs.
I might know of a track you could practice on! Haha
 
Glen,
Glen, I've though about this before because i have heard of guys using a speed bit to relieve the stud heads. I think the tool that would work best would be an oscillating tool so it would basically melt through the rubber much like the core bit does when drilling for studs.
I might know of a track you could practice on! Haha
Ya I wish there was a clean way to remove those lame quite pads. I would worry about damaging the track
 
Glen,
Glen, I've though about this before because i have heard of guys using a speed bit to relieve the stud heads. I think the tool that would work best would be an oscillating tool so it would basically melt through the rubber much like the core bit does when drilling for studs.
I might know of a track you could practice on! Haha

I've had the same thoughts......using an oscillating tool to cut them, but was afraid to jack it up. You might have the opportune time in the short future to to test your cutting skills on a section of bad track. Keep me posted on the results.
 
I cut mine up to the quiet pads, so the track measures 14.25 inches. If I could invent a way to nicely cut off the quiet pads I would, but the jury is still out.

I haven't been able to measure how much difference cutting the track makes, but I'll say......it doesn't slow it down.
You got that track lean and mean .. looks like a bit of chatter on the rubber on those rear wheels. You normally ran no studs and now your running them, is your studs causing the marks on your wheels?
 


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