Ski pressure

[fourbarrel]

How sensitive to the coupler block adjustments are the 137 skids in the SRX in relation to ski pressure? I swapped out the stock Tuners in the fall to Slydog Attacks and have only had a couple opportunities to try and tune the ski pressure where I want it,and as of yet am unsuccessful. The Tuners never handled right,to me, so that was the reason for the change, and I don't have very aggressive carbides on the Attacks, 6" if I remember right.I know that's not a lot of carbide for a studded sled but I find the front end just does not have enough down pressure on the skis. I'm wondering if it's either the front skid spring having too much preload,the transfer blocks need to be set closer or the limiter straps need to be pulled up. I do have a stiffer front shock spring,but I can't remember what the preload is set at right off. I didn't put much on it when I installed the shocks last year after having them rebuilt and the new spring installed.The rear springs are set to the lowest setting too.Even at 250lbs ready to ride,I never seemed to get enough sag in the skid.As far as I know they're the stock springs. I am more interested to know just how much of a difference the transfer blocks would make. It doesn't seem to take much throttle to pull the weight off the skis. I don't know if I will get a chance to ride the sled any more this winter or not,with the miserable weather we've had.Finally getting seasonable temps but not enough snow left to ride now.Gotta travel a couple hours or so for decent riding and really don't want to be spending time fiddling with skid adjustments.
My old 2 stroke SRX would embarrass this Winder on fast tight trails. I have that dialed in to handle like I want it to,where the Winder is almost dangerous in the corners.Pushing until it finally catches then the inside ski lifts and you feel like it wants to flip on it's side or toss you off. I know there's a weight difference and hp etc,but this chassis should be able to be setup to handle better than it does now.

 

[Simplespeed]

How sensitive to the coupler block adjustments are the 137 skids in the SRX in relation to ski pressure? I swapped out the stock Tuners in the fall to Slydog Attacks and have only had a couple opportunities to try and tune the ski pressure where I want it,and as of yet am unsuccessful. The Tuners never handled right,to me, so that was the reason for the change, and I don't have very aggressive carbides on the Attacks, 6" if I remember right.I know that's not a lot of carbide for a studded sled but I find the front end just does not have enough down pressure on the skis. I'm wondering if it's either the front skid spring having too much preload,the transfer blocks need to be set closer or the limiter straps need to be pulled up. I do have a stiffer front shock spring,but I can't remember what the preload is set at right off. I didn't put much on it when I installed the shocks last year after having them rebuilt and the new spring installed.The rear springs are set to the lowest setting too.Even at 250lbs ready to ride,I never seemed to get enough sag in the skid.As far as I know they're the stock springs. I am more interested to know just how much of a difference the transfer blocks would make. It doesn't seem to take much throttle to pull the weight off the skis. I don't know if I will get a chance to ride the sled any more this winter or not,with the miserable weather we've had.Finally getting seasonable temps but not enough snow left to ride now.Gotta travel a couple hours or so for decent riding and really don't want to be spending time fiddling with skid adjustments.
My old 2 stroke SRX would embarrass this Winder on fast tight trails. I have that dialed in to handle like I want it to,where the Winder is almost dangerous in the corners.Pushing until it finally catches then the inside ski lifts and you feel like it wants to flip on it's side or toss you off. I know there's a weight difference and hp etc,but this chassis should be able to be setup to handle better than it does now.

Remove blocks in back and run just the aluminum bar…set your springs on stiff, then set your front track spring softer and your shock rebound and compression in middle or #2 Set your front springs as soft as your can without taking all the tension out …rear shock compression should also be in middle or # 2 Run 6” Dooleys and ski’s won’t matter…Studs can be eliminated or reduced if your heavy studed.. This chassis will rail when you get it right…

 

[jonlafon1]

Sounds like your sled is way out of balance. I find the coupler blocks to be for transfer more then anything. I had a 2 smoke set up with front SRX shock springs, rear torsions and have a sidewinder Se now set up with QS3r AND SRX front shock springs and rear torsions also. These are the "LOWERED" springs used on the T cats and SRX starting when they ran the 1" track?
Im 225 riding so not exactly the same but I will give you my experience and what I did with these two sleds. Different skis as I had cat skis on both sleds and ALSO the bill mohr(stingray) center skid shock spring on both. I set my front ski shock springs 1-2 turns past no tension on them at all, so basically snugged up(light preload). This is with sled on stand. The front center stingray spring is 2-3 turns in from no tension. I ran the rear torsions on mostly on #3. Gave me about 3"-4" of sag. I had the front limiters all the way out (last hole). The shocks I ran on #2 most of the time. I adjusted the front suspension(center) shock spring only to start based on ski pressure/turning effort. This spring is your best place to make adjustments. If your feeling like the skis are turning to hard then tighten the center shock spring 1/2-3/4 of a turn. Still to hard to steer adjust again. You may need a slightly heavier center shock spring at your weight(no pun). If your pushing to much and still feel the bars turn easy then loosen the center shock spring. I would think you should be on #3 setting torsion springs in the back of the sled all the time. Biggest thing is making one adjustment at a time and getting a starting point for your ski shock springs and center shock spring. Put all the shocks on #2 to start and #3 on the rear torsions(plastic triangle). You can adjust the ski shock springs some but I find when I load them with a lot of pre load I get to much ski lift turning and or hard turning.
I know its not apples to apples but I wonder if you shouldn't just start over so to speak and then you know where everything is at? Also find out what springs you have on your sled. What year is the srx also.

 

[Simplespeed]

The key to making a sidewinder turn is getting that perfect balance between front and back of suspension and suspension to be balanced with front of sled along with just the right amount of carbide… no need to overstud either if your just trail riding this set up…

 

[super1c]

Good info guys. I run 3 on the rear spring. No preload on front shocks. #2 on all shocks. Now playing with center spring. Turning hard with no to very little push. Tightening up center bit, but out of snow to test. Running curve skis with 4” double downs. 1.75 backcountry with I grips. I’m close to being on rails. Not quite where I had my viper but close.

 

[twyztid]

Good info guys. I run 3 on the rear spring. No preload on front shocks. #2 on all shocks. Now playing with center spring. Turning hard with no to very little push. Tightening up center bit, but out of snow to test. Running curve skis with 4” double downs. 1.75 backcountry with I grips. I’m close to being on rails. Not quite where I had my viper but close.

Which "stiffer" center spring do you have? I am 185 lbs not dressed. Arctic Cat trail skis with 8" Double Down carbides, limiter strap pulled up 2 holes from stock, minimal preload on stock 90/250 center shock spring, and rear coupler blocks set on stock. It handles very well for me. There is some put at times but it is controllable push. I don't like the more aggressive push/grab scenario.

Oh... I also have the Hygear dual-rate springs on my ski shocks and SRX torsion springs on the rear.

 

[fourbarrel]

Sounds like your sled is way out of balance. I find the coupler blocks to be for transfer more then anything. I had a 2 smoke set up with front SRX shock springs, rear torsions and have a sidewinder Se now set up with QS3r AND SRX front shock springs and rear torsions also. These are the "LOWERED" springs used on the T cats and SRX starting when they ran the 1" track?
Im 225 riding so not exactly the same but I will give you my experience and what I did with these two sleds. Different skis as I had cat skis on both sleds and ALSO the bill mohr(stingray) center skid shock spring on both. I set my front ski shock springs 1-2 turns past no tension on them at all, so basically snugged up(light preload). This is with sled on stand. The front center stingray spring is 2-3 turns in from no tension. I ran the rear torsions on mostly on #3. Gave me about 3"-4" of sag. I had the front limiters all the way out (last hole). The shocks I ran on #2 most of the time. I adjusted the front suspension(center) shock spring only to start based on ski pressure/turning effort. This spring is your best place to make adjustments. If your feeling like the skis are turning to hard then tighten the center shock spring 1/2-3/4 of a turn. Still to hard to steer adjust again. You may need a slightly heavier center shock spring at your weight(no pun). If your pushing to much and still feel the bars turn easy then loosen the center shock spring. I would think you should be on #3 setting torsion springs in the back of the sled all the time. Biggest thing is making one adjustment at a time and getting a starting point for your ski shock springs and center shock spring. Put all the shocks on #2 to start and #3 on the rear torsions(plastic triangle). You can adjust the ski shock springs some but I find when I load them with a lot of pre load I get to much ski lift turning and or hard turning.
I know its not apples to apples but I wonder if you shouldn't just start over so to speak and then you know where everything is at? Also find out what springs you have on your sled. What year is the srx also.

It's a '19 SRX.Yeah this sled is way out of balance, compared to my old 2 stroke,but I've had many years of tweaking to get that sled to handle the way I like it. I am hoping to get another chance to try and sort the handling out this winter.First thing I'm going to try is softening the centre skid shock spring and see what that does for it.I have already pulled the limiters up one hole so I may have to reset them to stock.I had a local shock rebuilder do my shocks last year and he got the heavier spring for me,which I believe is equivalent to the Stingray one.I have the electronic damping on my shocks which I vary frequentlY,according to how rough the trails get.

 

[74Nitro]

How sensitive to the coupler block adjustments are the 137 skids in the SRX in relation to ski pressure? I swapped out the stock Tuners in the fall to Slydog Attacks and have only had a couple opportunities to try and tune the ski pressure where I want it,and as of yet am unsuccessful. The Tuners never handled right,to me, so that was the reason for the change, and I don't have very aggressive carbides on the Attacks, 6" if I remember right.I know that's not a lot of carbide for a studded sled but I find the front end just does not have enough down pressure on the skis. I'm wondering if it's either the front skid spring having too much preload,the transfer blocks need to be set closer or the limiter straps need to be pulled up. I do have a stiffer front shock spring,but I can't remember what the preload is set at right off. I didn't put much on it when I installed the shocks last year after having them rebuilt and the new spring installed.The rear springs are set to the lowest setting too.Even at 250lbs ready to ride,I never seemed to get enough sag in the skid.As far as I know they're the stock springs. I am more interested to know just how much of a difference the transfer blocks would make. It doesn't seem to take much throttle to pull the weight off the skis. I don't know if I will get a chance to ride the sled any more this winter or not,with the miserable weather we've had.Finally getting seasonable temps but not enough snow left to ride now.Gotta travel a couple hours or so for decent riding and really don't want to be spending time fiddling with skid adjustments.
My old 2 stroke SRX would embarrass this Winder on fast tight trails. I have that dialed in to handle like I want it to,where the Winder is almost dangerous in the corners.Pushing until it finally catches then the inside ski lifts and you feel like it wants to flip on it's side or toss you off. I know there's a weight difference and hp etc,but this chassis should be able to be setup to handle better than it does now.

No new sled will get through the corners like the old sleds would. Higher center of gravity.

 

[WinderFab]

It's a '19 SRX.Yeah this sled is way out of balance, compared to my old 2 stroke,but I've had many years of tweaking to get that sled to handle the way I like it. I am hoping to get another chance to try and sort the handling out this winter.First thing I'm going to try is softening the centre skid shock spring and see what that does for it.I have already pulled the limiters up one hole so I may have to reset them to stock.I had a local shock rebuilder do my shocks last year and he got the heavier spring for me,which I believe is equivalent to the Stingray one.I have the electronic damping on my shocks which I vary frequentlY,according to how rough the trails get.

I personally think the center spring is your problem, to each their own but I tried the stingray and the cat 160 springs and don’t like them, while they lighten the steering effort it’s to stiff of a ride while going through the studder bumps at speed, I’m going back to stock spring.

 

[twyztid]

I personally think the center spring is your problem, to each their own but I tried the stingray and the cat 160 springs and don’t like them, while they lighten the steering effort it’s to stiff of a ride while going through the studder bumps at speed, I’m going back to stock spring.

I agree. I didn't like that spring on my Viper. Took away too much ski pressure but yet would bottom out easy. The stock 90/250 rate spring on my 17 LTX SE is working much better.

 

[super1c]

Which "stiffer" center spring do you have? I am 185 lbs not dressed. Arctic Cat trail skis with 8" Double Down carbides, limiter strap pulled up 2 holes from stock, minimal preload on stock 90/250 center shock spring, and rear coupler blocks set on stock. It handles very well for me. There is some put at times but it is controllable push. I don't like the more aggressive push/grab scenario.

Oh... I also have the Hygear dual-rate springs on my ski shocks and SRX torsion springs on the rear.

Running stock springs.

 

[KnappAttack]

I personally think the center spring is your problem, to each their own but I tried the stingray and the cat 160 springs and don’t like them, while they lighten the steering effort it’s to stiff of a ride while going through the studder bumps at speed, I’m going back to stock spring.

I have tried upping the spring pressure on the front arm spring and don't like what it does to the ride. I don't understand how anyone could or would want a stiffer spring on the front arm unless they were a big guy. I run the stock front arm spring real loose for a better ride.

Aggressive SnowTrackers make for easy steering so a person doesn't need increased pre-load on the front arm and thats why I run them, they steer easy, go where pointed and do not dart.

 

[STAIN]

I have tried upping the spring pressure on the front arm spring and don't like what it does to the ride. I don't understand how anyone could or would want a stiffer spring on the front arm unless they were a big guy

100% Agree. I have tried, and removed the stiffer front spring.
The only time I have used a big center spring and had it work was on a 2020 ZR800 I was helping a friend with. He is @380lbs. and needed that spring to keep from crashing through the front skid shock.
I actually ended up buying that sled and immediately removed that spring.
Also remember pulling the limiter strap up shortens that front skid shock, taking away suspension travel on that arm. I try to stay away from strap adjustments unless absolutely needed. When adjusting the strap you have to readjust spring preload on that shock.......

 

[Simplespeed]

Lighter and or less spring pressure utilizes more shock rod travel when set up correctly in all shock spring points.. compression and rebound control that lenght and speed of that travel.. Going to a heavy spring reduces this effect unless shocks are revamped also… Running heavy springs on front shocks cause chassis roll and your going around the turns on one ski.. Properly set up front shocks will keep both ski’s digging together and keep sled flat… Running stiff or heavy spring on front track shock will cause lift under acceleration unless you suck the limiter strap to minimum lenght at which point will reduce spring and shock compression to little travel or effect.. long limiter strap with heavy or stiff set up spring will be a wheelie king and push in turns . This set up is not fast and will not rail around the corners…