Skid Plate Fasteners

[biffdotorg]

So check out the attached photo.

I pulled the skidplate off my Apex last night when doing my oil change. Upon loosening up the four bolts in the back, these fall out of the bulkhead. Since they are textured, they look like something that would be set into plastic.

Are these a form of Well-nut that is supposed to expand when the bolt is screwed into it. Or have these pulled out of the bulkhead and I am "screwed" on putting my skidplate back on?

They seem to go back into the bulkhead and fit tight, but would pull out easily with any force.

Your advice and words of wisdom are always appreciated. If anyone has any wisdom of how to remove a stripped phillips-head belly pan screw below my oil reservior that would be appreciated too. Until then, I held the plastic down and formed an Oil-Flume out of foil to get the oil drained.

Say that Six times fast after a few garage beers. Foil - Oil - Flume !!!

Thanks guys!

 

[biffdotorg]

If those were set into the aluminum, maybe a bit of JBweld would set them back in again?

 

[Snowmobileaddict]

Those fasteners are known as rivnuts and are not long enough to properly hold the skidplate fast over time.

I have followed the lead of many others on this board and replaced my failing rivnuts with expaning rubber well nuts. They hold great and are very cheap. If you search well nuts or wellnuts and skid plate on this board you will find many topics discussing this fastener substitution.

 

[Irv]

So check out the attached photo.

I pulled the skidplate off my Apex last night when doing my oil change. Upon loosening up the four bolts in the back, these fall out of the bulkhead. Since they are textured, they look like something that would be set into plastic.

Are these a form of Well-nut that is supposed to expand when the bolt is screwed into it. Or have these pulled out of the bulkhead and I am "screwed" on putting my skidplate back on?
They seem to go back into the bulkhead and fit tight, but would pull out easily with any force.

Your advice and words of wisdom are always appreciated. If anyone has any wisdom of how to remove a stripped phillips-head belly pan screw below my oil reservior that would be appreciated too. Until then, I held the plastic down and formed an Oil-Flume out of foil to get the oil drained.

Say that Six times fast after a few garage beers. Foil - Oil - Flume !!!

Thanks guys!

That's them and your scenerio is why guys use the rubber plugs instead (can't think of proper name)

When I installed my skid plate, I used Permatex "The right Stuff" and coated those nuts on the outside before installing and so far so good, I have not lost one yet nor have they came loose.

As far as your stripped Philips head, put your screw stick back in where it goes and give the end of a good wack with a plastic mallet, this will loosen it up inside and it might be enough to get it out if the head of the screw is not stripped too Bad?

If not, then try a oversized Robertson/Torx bit, just tap it with a hammer so it grabs some material and hope for the best.

 

[biffdotorg]

Those are the answers I needed guys! Thanks.

I actually had to replace a well nut on the Phazer windshield. There is one in the end of the four windshield mount points, and one fell apart.

I will probably do just that, my local hardware store had them in stock in many sizes.

You guys rule! Now back to the garage tonight for the dreaded phazer oil change! Then they will both be ready for a powerwash and bed for the summer.

 

[sleddog66]

Bifffdotorg, It is very easy to replace your rivnut with another, but I would use the next size longer, and it will hold great if properly installed. As far as the screw, use a screw extractor, designed for this very thing. you can buy them at a hardware store, or as sears. If you are keeping the sled a long time, I recommend changing the lower Phillips screws over to the newer style found on the 2011 and up which is a socket head(can't remember if it is 10 or 12 mm). never a problem removing these screws since the changeover

 

[gun nut]

skid plate

I drilled new holes, and taped them with a 1/4 inch tap. Then used bolts and washers.

Also a new trick I'm using. I use goop on all nuts or bolts. They won't loosen.

 

[Vectornut]

In addition to the aluminum well nuts, Yamaha also makes brass well nuts that really need to be crushed-in by a special tool that they have for this purpose. I have had excellent results with the aluminum ones as long as you crush them in with the special bold and nut that Yamaha provides then install the skid plate. The rubber gromets sound good also. The skid plate is an absolute must on every yamaha as it has a very soft underbelly.

 

[mr. shide]

Has anybody used the skinz brand skid plate? I have always use the Yamaha or holeshot brand and am considering a skinz brand.

 

[DGZRT]

Go with the rubber Well nuts and make sure you get the longest one's you can. I went to the next dia up and redrilled the holes and replace the phillip screws with some Allen heads and most of your problems will be solved.

 

[CaptCaper]

An Engineer here figured it out. You need a Rivnut a little longer. I installed mine with his recommendation years ago and they've held fine. Since you have holes already order them at McMasters. They are cheap. part number 94020A387, from McMaster-Carr use a 25/64 drill. Make your own Riv nut tool. Look here. Home made rivut tool

 

[Paraclete]

I use the wellnuts and they work great

http://www.lowes.com/Fasteners/Nuts/Sta ... 1z0yk2b/pl

 

[chiefsledhead]

As far as stripping the head off of the screw, the problem is that most guys use a #2 phillips head screw driver, just like what comes in the tool kit. The problem is that the screws are a #3 phillips, and if you use a #3 from the begininng, the heads will never strip out. I don't know why they don't give you the right size driver in the tool kit. Can't be a cost item.......

 

[CaptCaper]

I used the Mc Masters rivnuts mentioned in my above post with SS hex head bolts and SS fender type washers. I enlarged the holes a bit so it's easier to line up the plate.
Welnuts can spin in the housing and the rubber can deteriorate in time. Many here use them but like the engineer figured out you need the longer Riv nuts from Mc Masters.