Solution to Hyfax wear??

[arteeex]

I added the extra set of idlers on my sled. The mounting holes are already in the rails.

You'll need to order 2 sets of the same wheels, mounting blocks, bolts, nuts and washers as found on the front of the rail. If I remember correctly there's some small difference between the left and right side assemblies on the front, but I don't think it matters which bits you get for the rearward set.

I think this setup ran about $200 USD for the whole deal.

 

[TurboMatt]

Do you temper your slides when new? drive a short ways, stop let them cool down, drive a short ways, stop let them cool down. My slides go through the season (3000 miles). My new xtx, I used a heat gun to temper the slides while the track was still loose. When I replace slides with the HP's, I temper them with the heat gun before they go on.

I was thinking of trying something like this. Using a heat gun...then throwing them in the freezer. Repeat this a couple times

 

[Crewchief47]

Saw these mounts today in the Royal book:

http://www.royaldistributing.com/Shoppi ... 9/178.html

 

[Timeline]

I noticed those too. Any idea which one will be close to the one we need?

 

[arteeex]

Tempering UHMW polyethylene with repeated heating and cooling cycles is both bunk and a misused term. Annealing is possible in a controlled environment but the only thing that will do is make the material more dimensionally stable - which we don't care about in this application. The wear is due to abrasion, which can be accelerated by combinations of heat, pressure, interface speed and, obviously, debris carried on the track. Probably the best thing to do is consider ways to reduce heat and pressure on the slides. The additional wheels and a fully clipped track are a move in the right direction.

 

[arteeex]

The Yamaha parts required are numbered 23, 24, 18, 17, 22, & 27 in the drawing. You'll need two of each.

 

[nytro23]

bracket

part number series you'll need starts # 8ES-47419-20-00

 

[Crewchief47]

I noticed those too. Any idea which one will be close to the one we need?

I was hoping someone else knew.

 

[TurboMatt]

I added the extra set of idlers on my sled. The mounting holes are already in the rails.

You'll need to order 2 sets of the same wheels, mounting blocks, bolts, nuts and washers as found on the front of the rail. If I remember correctly there's some small difference between the left and right side assemblies on the front, but I don't think it matters which bits you get for the rearward set.

I think this setup ran about $200 USD for the whole deal.

What would be the advantages of getting this over the 'marginal snow kit'?
I think the marginal snow kit runs in the $80 range and that includes both wheels. That's a bit cheaper that $200. What's the difference?

 

[Grimm]

Saw these mounts today in the Royal book:

http://www.royaldistributing.com/Shoppi ... 9/178.html

I noticed those too. Any idea which one will be close to the one we need?

I've used the first mount listed (157-04) with success on my Vector. You end up having to use an idler with the wider 6205 bearing, so mounting on the inside of the rail really isn't an option with this mount as the wheel will not line up perfectly in between the drive lugs inside the track.

I'm sure that any of the listed mounts would work, as long as you have the appropriate bolts, washers, wheel and bearing size.

 

[Crewchief47]

I've used the first mount listed (157-04) with success on my Vector. You end up having to use an idler with the wider 6205 bearing, so mounting on the inside of the rail really isn't an option with this mount as the wheel will not line up perfectly in between the drive lugs inside the track.

So you could probably mill the mount to use it on the inside, or were they too short to start with???

 

[Grimm]

That would probably work, but I am pretty sure that one of the other Skidoo mounts is designed for the narrower 6005 bearing. I just don't know which one.

 

[Timeline]

Using the 6205 may be better anyways as the 6005 seem to be harder to get for a reasonable price.
The 6004 appear to be readily available and cheap at Royal. I like using the NTN blue seal with the low temp. grease in it.
I realize it's likely better to have them mounted on the inside but I'm thinking that the 3mm difference may not matter on the outside too much without machining them down. Anyone try this by chance?

http://www.royaldistributing.com/shoppi ... bmit=Go%21

 

[skidooboy]

i have a set of four adapters from pioneer powersports that move the idlers down 2.5mm making your stock idlers act like they are 5mm oversize. 30.00 shipped to the lower 48 if anyone is interested pm me.

they offered a kit awhile ago for the proaction suspension that had these four adapters and a rear center cross shaft lowering unit. i have the adapters but not the shaft. might benefit some people.

my take on it is, suspension set up and snow conditions. you ride in snirt, you might as well be taking a belt sander to the hifax and track clips. not to mention what it is doing to your dress up bling bling billet wheels. ski

 

[arteeex]

2jzpgt

Following up on your question; I first tried the marginal snow kit from Yamaha but it didn't fit the rails of the Nytro, so I went with adding another set of the front idlers. It was a direct bolt-on install that took 10-minutes and that was worth a few bucks for me.

I did this on my REV too with very good results. It seems to me that it even lets the sled roll a little better.