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Still getting oil in the air box

Had the same problem, it was messy, it was the separator.. You've probably checked and the chances are slim, but are you sure your new separator isn't a bum? It's happened.
 

Goin through my buddies 14 viper

Noticed when changing oil filter that the front of sled inside was sprayed with oil

Appears to be leaking from air box

Searched and came up with potentially oil seperator.

Could this also be caused by oil level to high in tanks

Or is it typically always seperator

There seems to be oketier clamps.

You guys cutting thes and replacing with screw type?

Thought i was done with this sled but
 
Noticed this on buddys sled when i went to change oil filter. A fine mist under air box and a slight drip from box plastic

Could this be an overfill issue or should i pull separtor as well and check
 
Are you guys pulling and cleaning the oil seperator with mineral spirits or gas etc... and then putting back on? I know if water gets in there it can freeze up and cause issues.
 
Are you guys pulling and cleaning the oil seperator with mineral spirits or gas etc... and then putting back on? I know if water gets in there it can freeze up and cause issues.
I pull the box and clean it with Dawn Dish soap and hot water. It dries pretty quick.
 
Goin through my buddies 14 viper

Noticed when changing oil filter that the front of sled inside was sprayed with oil

Appears to be leaking from air box

Searched and came up with potentially oil seperator.

Could this also be caused by oil level to high in tanks

Or is it typically always seperator

There seems to be oketier clamps.

You guys cutting thes and replacing with screw type?

Thought i was done with this sled but
Answered in other post. As far as clamps just remove clamps at aluminum line. They are just tension clamps can be squeezed with a pliers and reused.
 
Why isn’t the oil level set when cold same as a car. No need to mess around with temperatures.
 
Why isn’t the oil level set when cold same as a car. No need to mess around with temperatures.
Because a car has a oil pan. Wet Sump. That sucks power and takes up space and is unreliable under g forces. We have dry sump. Very little oil in bottom of motor. It’s a good thing but it means you must follow procedure to check oil.
 
So does that mean the oil in the tank is not at the same level each time after it sets and is cold. So if you were to check
cold it would be at a different level every time.?
 
So does that mean the oil in the tank is not at the same level each time after it sets and is cold. So if you were to check
cold it would be at a different level every time.?
Yes. Even a month later it could be at a different level. There is check balls in the system and they will seep over time transferring some oil from tank to engine that doesn't belong there. Doesn't hurt anything other than the oil level.
 
Read this. Applies to sight glass or dipstick models.

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    AllanTY 4 Stroke Junkie
    Messages:
    704
    Location:
    Newfoundland
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2016 Sr Viper XTX

    For Viper only, Read the very last page on this PDF from MPI (page 6 ). It gives you tips on checking the oil and also explains some of the variances you can see if not checked correctly.

    http://mountainperformance.com/Files/Download/hsk-1160_Layout.pdf

    Even if you don't have a turbo, the procedure is the same for checking the oil. And I agree is manual is not very clear but remember who printed it.
    I copy it :

    NOTES ABOUT READING OIL LEVEL:
    • Correct procedure for reading oil level.
    • Level is always read by screwing the cap all the way in, then removed.
    • Start with a cool vehicle on flat / level ground.
    • Start vehicle and warm up for a few minutes (manual says till fan comes on). Typically once water has reached 150+deg F it is warm and variances from temp are gone.
    • Shut motor off.
    • Wait at least 30 sec, but no more than 90 sec to read oil level.

    • Huge oil level reading variations have been observed. They are TIME & TEMPERATURE dependent.
    • Highest level observed on warm motor with-in 60sec of shut-down.
    • Level drops 60cc within 1 minute of above condition (would cause over-fill if customer used this reading).
    • Lowest level observed on cold motor after only 30sec of run time (would cause 235cc over-fill).
    • Oil level on cold motor and no run time is a little low (would cause 150cc over-fill)
    • Reading oil level without screwing dip stick all the way in causes about 175cc over-fill in addition to above conditions.

    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
    Allan, Nov 29, 2015EditHistoryDeleteSpamIPWarnReport
    #12LikeReply
    CooperT and yamahaguy like this.
 
Yes. Even a month later it could be at a different level. There is check balls in the system and they will seep over time transferring some oil from tank to engine that doesn't belong there. Doesn't hurt anything other than the oil level.
Thanks that’s good information.
 
Thanks that’s good information.
You bet. Got real familiar with these dry sump motors owning Atv and Dirtbikes with them. Especially the frame resevoir ones like XR's and Cannondales. If even slightly too much oil in the frame it eventually seeps down into motor and if piston is near bottom of stroke the engine gets hydro locked. Real pain and actually could cause damage. Thankfully most Yamahas including our sleds the tank is at or close to engine level so it can even out between engine and tank and not matter.
 


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