Still to warm

1975FA

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My 08 RTX continues to run hot. I have added the mtx heat exchanger, changed the thermostat, running 50/50 coolant, rebuilt the waterpump and made positive sure the fan operates. Even when I run in powder the temp light is on. What else is left?
 
You did purge the system of air correct? Also did you flush the system with water? If you did your mix might be off from the water left in the sytem from flushing......Just some thoughts.
 
sorenson1610 said:
You did purge the system of air correct? Also did you flush the system with water? If you did your mix might be off from the water left in the sytem from flushing......Just some thoughts.

Bought 50/50 premix, used the bleeder to get the air out of the tunnel exchanger. I topped the radiator off and ran it with the cap off, adding till it was full. An air lock is what I was wondering about also.
 
hmmm i did exactly what you did but just let it burp from the radiator. Ran mine 100 miles today on some less then ideal conditions and my light never came on. Hope you can get it figured out as overheating all day is just brutal!
 
I rode in 40 and 50 degrees last season toward the end without issues. Are you riding slow or how are you riding?
 
Does it actually feel hot?maybe just a bad senser,sometimes those will deteriate and and cause them to act up,,,plugged exaust?possibly a bad bearing in engine
 
You can also vent the top panel. Take a look at OFT's top vent. I just drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes to achieve the same thing, although not as nice looking. Lowered my temps around 10 degrees and it's a good spot to set your gloves/goggles to keep them warm when you stop. By the way, I have a temp gauge and the light comes on at 220 Deg. Every little bit helps!
 
sorenson1610 said:
You did purge the system of air correct? Also did you flush the system with water? If you did your mix might be off from the water left in the sytem from flushing......Just some thoughts.

antifreeze dissipates heat poorly, that's one reason 100% antifreeze is not used. The more water in the system the better the cooling system can dissipate heat. The important thing is to make sure your coolant freeze point is adequate for your area.

Remove the temperature sensor and tested it. If you don't have the ability to test the sensor you may want to replace it to eliminate it as the problem. You can also try running with the hood removed to see if it runs cooler although that is not the fix. The engine should not run hot with the hood on and the added heat exchanger installed. Make sure you didn't pinch a coolant line when you installed the exchanger.
 

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This morning I pulled all the panels off and put it up on the lift and bled the system again. I left it running while I cleaned the drivway. It was warm enough for the fan to be running and all the heat exchangers were hot to touch. The tempature on the top tank was 126 degree. The light was not on. I'm hoping I just had air in it. I am going to take it for a run later today.
 
I just ran about 10 miles. The light was on after about 4 miles, getting in deep powder helped for about 5 minutes. I ran with the top off and it made no diffrents. It shut off when I got home and had it idling in the driveway checking temp with a surface pyrometer. The top of the thermostat housing was 170. The engine was gurgling after it quit, so it was too warm. I am going to look for a flow restriction next. I have ran it with the radiator cap off looking for bubbles from a leaking head gasket and see none. When things are cool it will sit and idle for 45 minutes and not overheat.
 
How about the thermostat? Sounds stupid I know because usually when they stick, they stick open and you have no heat. But if its stuck open, or closed it can't regulate the temperature of the engine like it should. Seeing that it will idle for 45 minutes without overheating makes me think thats your problem. Thermostat shouldn't be to expensive. It is possible you still have an air lock as well.
 


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