Still to warm, The conclusion

sgilbert said:
I highly doubt the fan has been messed with, was just telling you something that happened to me. did you have this exact problem before the tunnel cooler???
Click to expand...

It was getting warm and losing coolant right after I bought it late last winter. Water pump seal was leaking, changed the seal but not the impeller. I just went back and did it again and changed what sure looked like a good impeller. I added the tunnel cooler after reading this forum. It seemed like a no brainer. I am the proud owner of someone elses problem with too much in it to quit now.
 
is it possible that originally you weren't running it hard enough, then added exchanger with mouse nest in it or kinked something??? I have personally seen many people over heat and think they have a problem, untill someone who can ride runs it. plugs the forum all the time. I have an 09 xtx pushing 7000 and have never looked at the coolant or ever seen an overheat light. even on miles of dirt with occasional puddles.
If I were in your shoes, I would pull some hoses and check flow through the exchangers with a garden hose or air. and in both directions. my guess is it got looked at pretty good at the dealer though. tough situation for any mechanic when you cant find anything and start replacing radiators and what not. In the end, it is the same machine that thousands are riding, so it cant be caused without something stupid like a blockage. when over heated, what does the echangers feel like?
 
Stupid question, did you or the dealer put a gauge on it and actually check the temp when the light is coming on? Sure it's not a bad sensor? Or a bad wire somewhere?
 
Yes both the dealer and myself have measured the temp and it is hot. All the exchangers are warm and I have confirmed the front exchanger is not blocked. The only thing left and it's on the list for tonight is check the brand new from yamaha tunel exchanger.
 
I almost guarantee its the head gasket. My sled has a blown head gasket right now and it will push the coolant out of the overflow tank because its is over pressurizing. Next time you ride empty your overflow tank and fill the radiator. If your overflow ends up full to the top then your in the same boat that I am.
 
he already stated that it was thoroughly pressure tested at dealer and no coolant in oil or vice versa, so not a head gasket, plus he stated that when overheated, the exchangers are hot, so it must be just plain old hot. short of the fan not running it sounds like no snow on exchangers
 
Tonight I confermed that I have no blockage in my new tunel heat exchanger. I am going to ride it to work in the next day or two. We have 6" of fresh snow and the high tempature is going to be about 5 degrees. It better cool.
 
My machine would overheat in perfect snow conditions. I called it the fun meter. When your having too much fun the overheat light would come on and force me to slow down and take it easy. This machine overheated from day one. It took me 3 years to finally fix the issue with some help from some of the other forum members here.

The colder it was the quicker it would overheat... Sounds crazy. The biggest issue that I found was the trail tank that holds the extra 3 gallons of fuel was blocking air flow to the radiator. Do you have the trail tank? If yes in my opinion you need some other drastic changes to improve the engine cooling. Where we ride 7 gallons of gas is not enough to get from town to town.

Now if you kept driving with the overheat light on for an extended period of time you may of messed up your engine. I never just ignored my light and I knew that the machine was hot. Depends on how hot you got your engine cause the coolant can still boil out if you overheated it real bad.

Anyways the changes that fixed my machine are as follows.

1) Added the mountain cooler - you have this all ready good
2) Added the OFT relocator and spaced my radiator out 20mm forward to improve air flow
3) Cut 2 1/4" inch holes in the hood where the yamaha emblems are

This is what fixed my machine from overheating. I would also take a look at your suspension idler wheels and maybe upgrade to the excell wheels to decrease your track rolling resistance this can also make your engine work extra hard and overheat.

All and all in the end the system is under capacity and poorly engineered. I've owned all kinds of machines and this Yamaha is the king of issues. Lots and lots of nuisance issues that none of my polaris or ski-doo machines ever had. Now since the thing is tuned in everything seems to be working good. It only cost me about $1,500 more bucks to fix the problems that yamaha should of fixed from the factory.
 
09nytro said:
Well if there is no blockage in cooling system then I would say .......head gasket...
Click to expand...

I have an instrument panel vent kit on the way. My last shot before the head gasket. I am a heavy equipment mechanic and the normal signs of a crack or blown head gasket just arn't there. If it is the head it's going to be a tuff job to do this winter. I don't have much heat in the garage. Will the head come off without pulling the engine?
 
No it want.
Sorry.
 
only someone who has no idea what a bad head gasket is would think it was... warm exchangers = coolant flow = no air bind. simptom would be oil in coolant and vice versa and quite possibly still not over heat until coolant gets low...
 
A head gasket can go bad in many ways. In my case the exhaust gasses are leaking into the coolant causing and over presureized cooling system. In this case there wouldn't be any oil in coolant just exhaust gases which you can test for.
 
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