Stub shaft bearing

[STAIN]

The whole bearing can be had for @$64

 

[Turboflash]

Yes and Thanks! This is the old post concerning the rubbing of the back of primary against the bolts shown in pic, and ever since this info was passed on, this is what I kept an eye on to make sure that clutch back to bolt clearance was maintained and not rubbing after blowing a few belts back then! And the pic answered one of my questions on why I didn’t think of greasing that bearing, because it’s a sealed bearing! I still wish I would have thought of popping that seal, cleaning that bearing and adding some black moly grease back then! I used some of that grease on all wheel bearings and secondary shaft bearing, I think this will be 4 years! I’ve checked a few of the wheels and secondary bearing for greasing twice since, on my yearly maintenance, and they still have all that grease still in them!

Yes, it's a sealed bearing but then so are all the bearings in the skid. Yet, they still get condensation on them.
Just because it's sealed doesn't mean it never needs more grease. The grease heats up and some of it evaporates over time. Remember, that bearing is turning crankshaft speed. Most of the time, the wheels in the skid are not turning 6-7-8-9,000 RPM.
That said, I've researched the grease in that stub shaft bearing. It's the same grease used in many high speed, high temp aircraft bearings. It's not moly; it's not synthetic, it's not wheel bearing grease. It's Aeroshell #7 which is pretty much exclusive to aircraft industry.

 

[Motorhead]

Yes, it's a sealed bearing but then do are all the bearings in the skid. Yet, they still get condensation on them.
Just because it's sealed doesn't mean it never needs more grease. The grease heats up and some of it evaporates over time. Remember, that bearing is turning crankshaft speed. Most of the time, the wheels in the skid are not turning 6-7-8-9,000 RPM.
That said, I've researched the grease in that stub shaft bearing. It's the same grease used in many high speed, high temp aircraft bearings. It's not moly; it's not synthetic, it's not wheel bearing grease. It's Aeroshell #7 which is pretty much exclusive to aircraft industry.

So being exclusive to the aircraft industry, what would be the second best for that bearing grease application?

 

[Motorhead]

Seems to me if you remove the bearing from the shaft you should replace it. If I remember correctly in order to get the bearing off the shaft you needed to press against the outer diameter of the bearing which side loads the bearing quite a bit. My concern is that would damage the bearing. Putting it on is easier as you can use a deep socket or a piece of pipe to drive it on pressing against the center race

Yes, I should have done as you suggest, even though once removed, it still rolled smooth in our hands! Peace Of Mind means a lot!

 

[1nc 2000]

Green loctite will hold unless the shaft and bearing surfaces still had oil or grease on them.
I replaced the Stub shaft in my nytro with new. It also came with the inner bearing that goes in the engine block. Didn't change it since it's oil lubricated.
Bearing was done.
Looks like i should order a bearing and seal for that one and put it in my winder when its time.

 

[Turboflash]

So being exclusive to the aircraft industry, what would be the second best for that bearing grease application?

AeroShell #7 Grease - 400g Cartridge/Tube - Brand New Stock | Canada

Authorized AeroShell Distributor. PlaneSpares is a division of Fly Arkansas, LLC and is an authorized National Distributor of AeroShell.

ebay.us

 

[Turboflash]

So being exclusive to the aircraft industry, what would be the second best for that bearing grease application?

Here's another that is specified for high speed, high temp applications:
https://share.google/ryp2TMPQza8W4otxv

 

[Motorhead]

I see your point, that bearing does see much more revolutions then the wheel bearings in the skid! Thanks for the grease alternatives!