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Stubborn Stud Removal Tips

Discussion in 'Skis, Studs, Tracks and Aftermarket Suspensions' started by o's srx, Dec 17, 2019.


  1. o's srx

    o's srx Lifetime Member Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Cobourg, ON, CA
    Does anyone have any tips on removing stripped Allen key or torx hole in the stud? The steel nut is rusted really good and the stud just spins.
    I have had luck drilling out the aluminum nuts, but the bit just won't drill the steel. I'm not looking to keep the stud or nut but would like to keep the single backer.
     
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  3. mikextx

    mikextx VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    608
    Location:
    holland MI
    Country:
    USA
    Snowmobile:
    2017 apex xtx - 2001 sx700r 151
    LOCATION:
    Holland MI
    I would spin the track so the problem area is towards the rear, or an accessible spot. I would then cut the nut with a cutoff wheel. Or try to grip the head of the stud with vice-grips, then spin the nut off
     
    twyztid and STAIN like this.
  4. Yamajon1

    Yamajon1 VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    268
    Location:
    Oshkosh Wisconsin
    Country:
    USA
    Snowmobile:
    2016 SR Viper RTX DX
    Former Yamaha sleds:
    2004 Venture 600 2002 SX Viper 700
    1997 Vmax 600 SX 1994 Vmax 600 1989 Exciter
    1986 Vmax 540 1986 Phaser 1981 SRX 440
    X2 for the cut off wheel
     
  5. ClutchMaster

    ClutchMaster HUGE Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    2,746
    Location:
    tomahawk
    Country:
    USA
    Snowmobile:
    2015 Viper 270 hurricane,
    2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
    LOCATION:
    Wisconsin
    Cut through the nut with a 4” grinder and cutoff wheel, then I use a coarse flap wheel to sand the Nut down even thinner. Usually you can then spin the Nut off with an impact without even using an Allen wrench. There won’t be much Nut left is all.
     
  6. o's srx

    o's srx Lifetime Member Lifetime VIP Member VIP Member

    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    Cobourg, ON, CA
    On the aluminum nuts, I drilled a couple small holes on one side, just until I contacted the stud, so I could split it open and then was able to unscew it.
    The ones with steel nuts, we're a little more difficult. I used the suggestions and sacrificed the stud to save the backer. A Zipcut wheel to slice the side of the nut off. Then with it "relieved", most were able to unscrew with a wrench and vise-grips holding the stud. Some required a 2nd relief cut as they were being extra stubborn.
     

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