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Stud Length

I even used some doubles on the outside band so I could get eight scratch lines on the outside bands and the fact that doubles hook sooo much better.

Was thinking I could remove ALL the outsides to get rid of some weight and get a little more track slippage. Hooks a bit too hard actually. Once a racer, always a racer I guess.


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What do you sharpen your studs with?
 

What do you sharpen your studs with?

I cut an allen wrench down, put it in a drill and spin them on the bench grinder before installing. I take just the shank down, but beware, you will loose a tip now and again. They are not as durable as just taking them out of the package and installing. Had perhaps a dozen loose tips in just over 1000 miles.
 
One other question I see in your photo the 3 heat exchanger protectors. You dont need the full tunnel protectors running all the way up?
No, those are factory protectors from cat/yam(3 piece), they work well. The coolant "runners" that connect the coolant from rear cooler to front cooler only run over the track clips, so they are protecting the alum tunnel.

Dan
 
we run 1.63 triggers in a 1.25 ripsaw 2 137 or 129 track - gota keep track tight - touches a little on top of tunnel - we push the vents up a little and grind the 2 bolts down on top of tunnel under tank - its fine - they hold up great - alum. doubles in center and some square singles on outside every other... i dont like round plates... or plastic
 
Grab your oscillating tool and sharpen the end to shave off humps. Studs sit flush .Zero idler wear...less vibration
 

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I really like my 2/4/2/4 pattern, I like the template I got thru stud boy, its not cardboard like some of the cheap woody's templates.

I know it seems obvious, but I must have heard from dozens who actually studded in the center, then realized their studs would hit the center protector, so I just wanted to remind you about center.

Dan

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I might have to give that try for trail. Nice!!
 
I really like my 2/4/2/4 pattern, I like the template I got thru stud boy, its not cardboard like some of the cheap woody's templates.

I know it seems obvious, but I must have heard from dozens who actually studded in the center, then realized their studs would hit the center protector, so I just wanted to remind you about center.

Dan

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Dan, in the top row of your template with the 2 round backers. Is that the holes you actually used? On my track this puts the stud pretty close to the window where the backer will be pretty much flush to edge of track on window.
 
Grab your oscillating tool and sharpen the end to shave off humps. Studs sit flush .Zero idler wear...less vibration

Run any thin profile head stud and they sit flush and no vibration....nothing to remove...
 
I really like my 2/4/2/4 pattern, I like the template I got thru stud boy, its not cardboard like some of the cheap woody's templates.

I know it seems obvious, but I must have heard from dozens who actually studded in the center, then realized their studs would hit the center protector, so I just wanted to remind you about center.

Dan

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The reason why I was asking is because I marked the holes exactly how you have your backers set up in your photo of template and the top row on your template with the round backers. It will put the backer within a 1/16 inch of being flush with my track window. Was wondering if thats how it is on yours and if it will be fine there. If not the bad I already drilled the holes
 
What do you sharpen your studs with?
Hi dennis,i was pondering the idea,of 168 down middle on my new track next year,but I just love the fact about woody double backers have a hard time pulling out,and said the heck with it,and just buy 96 doubles,and 1.57 megabites,like you have had such good luck with,and my track has to be very tight,even now,or I have had it rachet.
 
I really like my 2/4/2/4 pattern, I like the template I got thru stud boy, its not cardboard like some of the cheap woody's templates.

I know it seems obvious, but I must have heard from dozens who actually studded in the center, then realized their studs would hit the center protector, so I just wanted to remind you about center.

Dan

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When you got to the last row (45 uneven) did you go with 2 or 4 studs?
 
actually - i figured out a pattern back in the day for the 129 for doubles with 45 rows that works out - 1st one in blue only is 120 , if u want to add more goto 2nd pic is 140 - and so on - check it - and the 137 has 48 so thats easy -- now the 141 with 47 rows,,, your screwed - nothing divides out except 4 / row - daa.. i like to start with a small # pattern and be able to add some if needed - dont like running a bunch of studs but with this animal - u kinda have to run more - and the outside is for drag racing or pull outs on the trail so i dont do that untill the tracks at the end of its life maby for a fun day of racing with needle studs, the life for 2 ply tracks on these is about 3k i figure and as i approach 3000, i dont doo those top end hits anymore over 110. change it - put it on a viper or 8000 or something small before it blows out and u dy....
 

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