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you can remove the lower rear bolts and swing it dont an rivet the protectors from the underside.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
SharkAttak said:MrSled said:There will be no tunnel protection from Yamaha this year to my knowledge, that why I have shown the protection I used and if you do stud its a must to have the protection.
mr. sled: do you have to drop the skid to put the tunnel protectors on? if so, is it hard to do?
mr. sled: did you use sma-8cv-92900 (48" x 3/4") or (48" x 1") also, what size rivets and how many, thanks
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I am pretty sure its the 1", I added rivets every 5 inches .... remeber thise protectors will bridge the opening... You can get the alum ones too from after market shops but I had the pvc type laying around.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
MrSled said:I am pretty sure its the 1", I added rivets every 5 inches .... remeber thise protectors will bridge the opening... You can get the alum ones too from after market shops but I had the pvc type laying around.
thanks, i'll give it a try
donnyrhodes
Pro
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I was going to Put 96 Woodys 1.325 in mine... Get teh Grip and hang the skis!
osceolacabin
Pro
Just finished up the studding/tunnel this weekend. I did it a little different on Mr. Sleds advice with my protectors. I used the same style protectors, instead of running them full length, cut them to around 24"...just enough to protect the area in question (rear past the cut out to the dovetail). I also milled (table saw) the edge and bottom side to position the slide on the edge of the R/L cutout and a flat mounting. Cut the ends 45 degrees and belt sanded to a curve.
To run these up the edge of the cutout...you will have to use the rear hole of the tool case for your rear mount point (center of the protector). Then you will have to notch for the forward hole of the tool case as it will fall on the edge of the protector. I riveted mine from the top side every 8" with a washer on the protector side.
To run these up the edge of the cutout...you will have to use the rear hole of the tool case for your rear mount point (center of the protector). Then you will have to notch for the forward hole of the tool case as it will fall on the edge of the protector. I riveted mine from the top side every 8" with a washer on the protector side.
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osceolacabin
Pro
I used Aluminum rivets 3/16" W X 1/2" grip range...drill bit 7/32". The rivets look like the factory rivets and are spaced equal distance up thru the opening.
To rivet from the top...you will have to drop the rear of the skid (bolt on drop down reinforcement / 1 each side)...raise off ground...remove the seat (bolt on each side)...rear plastic (4 bolts)...remove tank bolts (2 nuts)...remove seat bracket nuts (2 nuts)...loosen seat bracket bolt to front frame (1 bolt each side)...then raise up the tank off the bolts...raise up the seat bracket about 6-8" and secure with an object up under the muffler.
Nice clean install IMO...still trying to figure out something for the front cooler.
To rivet from the top...you will have to drop the rear of the skid (bolt on drop down reinforcement / 1 each side)...raise off ground...remove the seat (bolt on each side)...rear plastic (4 bolts)...remove tank bolts (2 nuts)...remove seat bracket nuts (2 nuts)...loosen seat bracket bolt to front frame (1 bolt each side)...then raise up the tank off the bolts...raise up the seat bracket about 6-8" and secure with an object up under the muffler.
Nice clean install IMO...still trying to figure out something for the front cooler.
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osceolacabin
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Looks Good
FastEH!
Extreme
Heat Exchanger?
Are you guys NOT protecting the front heat exchanger??
Are you guys NOT protecting the front heat exchanger??
BV1
Expert
Do you mean the radiator?
-Steve
-Steve
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There is a ton of room in the front, I don't feel it needs the protection but that your choice.
GypsyRoots
Expert
No, the heat exchanger under the tunnel forward of the track.BV1 said:Do you mean the radiator?
-Steve
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