Studs went through front exchanger!

A welder here in town will tig it for me,after I remove the skid. Easy job for him he says! Still waiting to see if there are any means to beef up the existing tunnel protectors?
 
its a pretty sttraight forward job. a buddy of mine had to tig mine last year. i never did unplug anything. but really cause i forgot to. but all was well when i got it back. shouldnt cost you more than like $50 to have it done. oh and there are no "cores" in it. they are just hollow inside. so no worries there.
 
Yes, this is no big deal. had mine done last season, i had a double backer tear out going wfo across the lake. biggest pain is having to move the sled with no skid in it. Also never thought of the ECU removal but all worked out fine.
 
I had the same problem. Went through insurance and was a $2800.00 claim. Ripped the whole front end apart and got a new track. Replaced the track with a 1.25 Kimpex Shotgun track. JUNK!!!! 400 miles on it with no studs and ripping lugs off it. JUNK!!!!!!!!!
 
Blue Oval said:
A welder here in town will tig it for me,after I remove the skid. Easy job for him he says! Still waiting to see if there are any means to beef up the existing tunnel protectors?
Click to expand...
tig will work fine,had mine welded 2 years ago,we have a tig at work so my boss welded it for free,lucky me i guess,but i helped him,i remember having a hard time with antifreeze puking from the tiny hole even though it was empty,seemed like the heat was pulling it thru the hole, took a while to seal it,make sure it is well drained,we did it without removing the skid cuz of where the hole was,got lucky on that 1,no more studs for me,season is too short
 
When I purchased my 06 Attak the PO had 1.52 inch studs, 5 pulled through. I cant believe in the 3 years he had the sled the front exchanger was never damaged. All my years snowmobiling i've never had a single pull out or stud related damage to the tunnel. Correct stud length and proper torque and re torque and track tension a few times a year and it is a non issue. The 1.52s were promptly removed and replaced with 1.325s.
 
pat the rat said:
Blue Oval said:
A welder here in town will tig it for me,after I remove the skid. Easy job for him he says! Still waiting to see if there are any means to beef up the existing tunnel protectors?
Click to expand...
tig will work fine,had mine welded 2 years ago,we have a tig at work so my boss welded it for free,lucky me i guess,but i helped him,i remember having a hard time with antifreeze puking from the tiny hole even though it was empty,seemed like the heat was pulling it thru the hole, took a while to seal it,make sure it is well drained,we did it without removing the skid cuz of where the hole was,got lucky on that 1,no more studs for me,season is too short
Click to expand...
So this may be able to be welded with the skid in place? from what i recall it was pouring out of one hole. May sound stupid but how do I go about draining the entire cooling system? Still contemplating on changing the studs out to 1.325's, like someone stated, it's a short season,I don't want to constantly worry about this happening again. Doug
 
Have 2 exchanger, one new the other about 200 miles if you need one. I got little one that sits beside chain house to.
 
I have personally welded a few of these. Remove the skid and the track which will remove the drive shaft so the welder will be able to access the hole with ease. Remove the ecu (front right corner nose) and set it on the other end of shop away from the tig welder. Try to fasten the ground clamp on the exchanger to eliminate current from traveling trough the rest of the electronics on the sled. Make sure to pressure check cooling system , with soap ,at 15psi before installing track to make sure weld don't leak. BTW you make want to replace the bearing by the speedo sensor since you have it apart. The last one took about 3hrs. to do.
 
I welded mine in my SRX w/ a TIG.
The biggest thing I could say is make sure it is VERY CLEAN!!!! get all the coolant out of the exchanger. Clean aound the whole with a scotch brite pad. Clean it some more!!!
I found heating the area to be welded with a map torch helped dramaticly. Not sure why but it did make a differance.

Like many have said. Remove the skid, track, disconect the ECU.
 
I run 196 1.45's and haven't seen any damage to the front cooler, there is a few marks under the muffler where they have hit . I put a 136 kit under mine last year and had to move the rear transfer tube back after I seen when it had heavy contact with some studs but none that caused a leak. I do run the track a little tighter to prevent this. There SHOULD be a low coolant light on these sleds as well as the idiot light. The light will NEVER come on do to loss of coolant leaving the owner with no way of knowing there is a leak until they smell it or it sticks the engine.
 
wcfpusher said:
did a stud break and get thrown into the exchanger? i run 1.450 and though i hit my cross bar under hard launches i have had no exchanger issues yet.
Click to expand...
From what I can remember from last Thursday, as I have not started the removal yet, It looks to be gouged, I don't believe a stud pulled out. I am changing the 1.450's out when the track is out, I don't want to worry about this happening again. I paid $75 for practically brand new Woody's 1.325 w/ t nuts and angled backers, on a torn up Ripsaw. I will most likely use my yellow round Mack backers though. My welder actually told me yesterday that we will need to remove all the coolant, clean the aluminum REAL good, and yes he will pressure test it after the Tig job :Rockon: I had the dealer put aside the jackshaft bearing and Driveshaft bearing while were in there ;)! This site is awesome, thanks to all so far :rocks: Any removal pics of the skid and driveshaft on this site in case we try this ourselves and not the dealer to save some $? Oh yeah, I filed a claim with Ins. co. too today, said I must have hit something in the woods? Doug
 
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