I am playing around with mine now. I would go to 3/4 turn from seated and adjust from there.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
In the nytro manual it explains how to sync them ... there's really no set turns out like a air/fuel scew on a carb...and those can be different from unit to unit... one the other hand we have done 4 viper re-flash and they idle very smooth and start right up ... they sound like the nytro now ....two of the vipers idled very poorly and when trying to start them they turn over very hard and now turn key and maybe two cranks and running ... so maybe we got a good flash now ...
RTX
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2005
- Messages
- 1,796
- Location
- massachusetts / maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 viper rtx
2006 apex rtx
Looking at the stats in the other post it shows multiple people that now have to start the sled twice on cold start with the new flash.
That dont seem right to me.
Im thinking you and your friends might just be lucky with your reflashes. Just my opinion
Inconsistancy that's the real issue.
3/4 turns from in is a good place to start setting. That is where #3 on mine was from factory. Haven't checked the rest because they are a bugger to get at and it is synced very well with factory settings.
Mine when cold the center is steady but higher than the other two. The other two vary a lot exactly in tandem with each other. Once warm they all even out and are steady like video. I am leaving it since IACV is on the center and probably is reason for this.
Next is hose to all three and MAP sensor
All 3 of mine were 3/4turn from all the way in from factory and within 1/16 turn. Bad news. If Map sensor is hooked up in Nytro configuration it goes very rich and took two tries to start. Cannot run that config with tune the way it is. PCV disconnected or connected. Burn your eyes rich. That configuration does give equal Vacuum reading even at startup though. Just way wrong tune to do it from factory. Out of simple ideas other than some may be out of sync from factory. I will say this. The MAP sensor which is one with hose on it needs to be perfect or will really mess up your run quality.
DT
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2011
- Messages
- 107
- Location
- Michigan, Flint area
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2006 Attak
1015 Viper
Interesting observations. My sled is one of those "very bad" idling ones. I have it in my shop now and will report back what I find regarding these idle screws.
I dont wish it on any but in a way I hope you find them way off. Then we will have a reason for variation. So far Smoothride is only one but if you think about it it makes sense. Crummy tune and then how can you set at factory when motor truly is not broke in. Should almost be part of a 500mi service. Even that is not going to make it a perfect idle but much better and livable.
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I don't understand why i doesn't work and goes rich with vacuum hoses from all three throttle bodies to the MAP sensor? Will it be to much or "vrong" vaccum?
Yes I believe thats what happens. I am at 800ft though so not sure if it goes BELOW sea level! Since higher up it should be leaner. Maybe it went into some default. Was no code though. Shop still stinks from that though.
No one is syncing the throttle body's before and after breaking is why we are not hearing about the difference.
This is all very complicated to me..but that is why I am here..amazing information..
I start mine every day to heat cycle it...today I gave it a few blips 2500 ish.sounds really stable and strong..very strong..sounds synced...getting both off and on the throttle..
I start mine every day to heat cycle it...today I gave it a few blips 2500 ish.sounds really stable and strong..very strong..sounds synced...getting both off and on the throttle..
