Yes I did the install on my suspension. I have done three other Installs of m-10s in the past. I would suggest calling and asking for Brian it might take a while for them to get back to you by email. As musselman stated the front shaft is the only thing you should have to buy I think around 40$. I have the same type of financial advisor . I used both sets of directions for mine but I would ask what has changed since that time it could save you time.
 
You have to go to totallyamaha.com it is the page with banners. I am sorry I'm don't know how to post it for you. The instructions for an m-10 and m-20 are similar. You did purchase an m-20. Did you buy this privately? As for the instructions both suspensions are alike in the geometry the only real difference is the rear mounts because of the air bag on the rear arm. As for the rubber bumpers they are needed on the m-20 I blew out a rear air bag one night those blocks keep the upper cross shaft from hitting the rails which are the same m-10 and the m-20. Brian is a great guy to talk to if you need help with install. Elton
Just seeing this post now.. and Yes it was a private seller. Thanks for the help Elton. Your recent posts made things alot more clear as to what i have.. Which I'm now assuming is an early model M20 which includes its own instructions for the rear cross shaft install(Airwave Diamond Suspension Instructions) followed by the continued install of the M10. Like all of you guys have mentioned, i am going to contact them. There may be a revised installation to better the skids performance and i would hate to miss out on what could have been prevented!
 
DJ, one more thing I'll suggest...

From my own experience; I would install a small line that runs down the front arm with a remote schrader valve on the end! You will cuss the first time you lay on your side and reach up in there to connect a Fox hand pump with a hose that's too short! Then you'll realize that you added too much air...or not enough, then have to repeat the process. o_O Then...you're friends will toss you in the bush because they're sick of you taking 10 minutes to screw with your sled at every intersection! :confused:

I installed the remote line on my M10 years ago and it really expedites the process! Just my .02 :)

Did you get a hand pump with your purchase?
 
DJ, one more thing I'll suggest...

From my own experience; I would install a small line that runs down the front arm with a remote schrader valve on the end! You will cuss the first time you lay on your side and reach up in there to connect a Fox hand pump with a hose that's too short! Then you'll realize that you added too much air...or not enough, then have to repeat the process. o_O Then...you're friends will toss you in the bush because they're sick of you taking 10 minutes to screw with your sled at every intersection! :confused:

I installed the remote line on my M10 years ago and it really expedites the process! Just my .02 :)

Did you get a hand pump with your purchase?
Yes, it came with the hand pump. I'm also running some Fox Floats 2 that came with a pump as well.. Last year I bought the Fox floats brand NEW on clearance for only $275 off Dennis kirk! The shocks were meant to fit on an arctic cat but i managed to make them work perfectly on my RX1.!

I couldn't agree with you more, this was already on my definite to do list! I did a big airline job at a plant i do business with so i have plenty of stuff left over.. Considering I have a mess of quick connect SS airline fittings, plenty of 1/4 poly and pvdf hose, and one nice 4 ft section of SS braided hose with 1/8 npt crimped ends which is probably what i will use for the main run off the shock, it would be foolish of me not to install it.

Funny your mentioning this.. Yesterday I was telling my buddy we should run an extension off his FOX mega float (2013 Apex SE) so he doesn't have to mess around on the trail to get his skid dialed in.. He said, nah its no big deal.. Mind you this is his first sled and he didn't even put 500 miles on it yet. I think he will have a change of thought once he sees how nice and convenient it is for me to adjust my air pressure with ease. :)
 
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DJ, just wondering how progress is going with your new M20? :cool:
 
It took a few days to here back from Brian to find out exactly what i was going to need. Turns out purchasing the entire installation kit (should be here on Monday) was definitely the best route to go.... The instructions for my sled and the Tunnel template has changed from the original version(s).. Though it costed me a few bucks more i sure am glad i went this route..! Also ordered a new pair of rear carrier pads as well.

Question: Do the carrier pads tend to wear out fast? Would this only apply to an improper setup; if your track was running to loose or to tight, improper air setup, excessive wear to upper or rear boogie wheels?

The reason i ask is because supposedly this skid only had 500 miles put on it (so i was told).. However, even though its in VERY good condition I don't know if i believe that.... The rear carrier pads were worn down to where the aluminum brackets were starting to show some slight wear as well..
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It took a few days to here back from Brian to find out exactly what i was going to need. Turns out purchasing the entire installation kit (should be here on Monday) was definitely the best route to go.... The instructions for my sled and the Tunnel template has changed from the original version(s).. Though it costed me a few bucks more i sure am glad i went this route..! Also ordered a new pair of rear carrier pads as well.

Question: Do the carrier pads tend to wear out fast? Would this only apply to an improper setup; if your track was running to loose or to tight, improper air setup, excessive wear to upper or rear boogie wheels?

The reason i ask is because supposedly this skid only had 500 miles put on it (so i was told).. However, even though its in VERY good condition I don't know if i believe that.... The rear carrier pads were worn down to where the aluminum brackets were starting to show some slight wear as well..
View attachment 125406
DJ, I'm glad you've gotten some resolve on getting in touch with Fast and getting the correct mount kit, etc. ;)!

As for the wear on the white carrier pads; I would bet the last guy did not install the rear arm brackets correctly in his sled, causing excessive wear towards the front (looking at your pic). The pads are there to keep the track from rubbing the upper air spring mount, which has to pivot so the air spring won't kink as the suspension compresses. It's important to get the rear mount brackets installed correctly and keep the air spring and pads "in time" with suspension travel. ;)
 
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DJ, I'm glad you've gotten some resolve on getting in touch with Fast and getting the correct mount kit, etc. ;)!

As for the wear on the white carrier pads; I would bet the last guy did not install the rear arm brackets correctly in his sled, causing excessive wear towards the front (looking at your pic). The pads are there to keep the track from rubbing the upper air spring mount, which has to pivot so the air spring won't kink as the suspension compresses. It's important to get the rear mount brackets installed correctly and keep the air spring and pads "in time" with suspension travel. ;)
So basically, if i start seeing wear on the newly installed carrier pads, i probably made a mistake with the installation.?
 
So basically, if i start seeing wear on the newly installed carrier pads, i probably made a mistake with the installation.?
The rear arm drag link would have to be mis-positioned pretty bad to wear on one end of the pads like that. I have about 5000 miles on my Apex M20 and the wear pads show almost no wear. That's what makes me think the previous owner of your skid may not have had the skid installed correctly, but who knows for sure? The pads should not wear in one area like that.

Look at the pictures below. When oriented correctly, the white carriers should have an equal amount of slope on each side when compared to the track. Depending on model of sled, the correct orientation is determined by fastening the rear drop brackets at the correct angle, as per Fast instructions. In the case of my Apex; the top of the drop brackets (supplied by Fast) had to be kept parallel with the top of the tunnel. The bracket is at a slight angle, but that is what correctly positions the D-shaped hole, which locks the rear shaft in position and correctly times the wear pads.

Fast may have sent you completely different directions and/or mount kit than what I received. Either way, there will be instructions on how to fasten and position the rear arm correctly; they may even have you re-use your stock drop brackets? Your end result may look different than mine, but the function will be the same! ;)!

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So basically, if i start seeing wear on the newly installed carrier pads, i probably made a mistake with the installation.?
Since yours is a 121" it will wear the pads more since the track is much closer where it comes over the rear wheels. On the 136" the track is further away from those pads so they barely touch unless the track is slapping around. They should still last a few thousand miles though.
 
Since yours is a 121" it will wear the pads more since the track is much closer where it comes over the rear wheels. On the 136" the track is further away from those pads so they barely touch unless the track is slapping around. They should still last a few thousand miles though.
Ah...I keep forgetting it's a 121". I bet that does make a difference. ;)!
 
Well, i received the mounting kit! I'll be using my old rear brackets. As far as a template goes there is NONE, they give you a thin steel plate that measures 25.55in. from center hole to center hole! I have yet to look at my sled to make sure i have the small hole they say to drill out for the airwaves application which I'm surely hoping is there.. If its not.. I'd be stuck from there (NO template or measurement given for this hole). However, assuming the hole is there, I will say, from the instructions and what i have read, this should be like a walk in the park compared to what i was expecting:D!
There sure isn't much in the box for the $304 spent... but if it saves me a ton of headaches and frustration I'm one happy camper:-o! Can't wait to do the install:sled2:! Hoping to get to it by weeks end. I'll be sure to post some pics!

After reading musslemans post, I did some thinking.. As far as the carrier pads go, I noticed on the "air hose locating template" (file attached) i received it shows 2 mounting positions, one is for 6.375 wheels (which i have) and the other is for 7" wheels. Now, my question is, if there is enough of clearance in the tunnel, couldn't I use 7" rear upper wheels to help prevent or at the very least help minimize some of the wear to the rear carrier pads?

Not to forget where the heck is the SNOW.......!? WTH is going on with this weather... It sure does SUCK! :letsnow::letsnow::letsnow::letsnow::letsnow::letsnow::letsnow:
 

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