Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I just got off the phone with Fast. My M20 airwave booster kit will ship out early next week. They need to set everything up for my weight. I opted for the braided line without on board compressor.
Here's a tid bit of information. The kit comes with an air bag for the front arm if your weight is 225 or above. That would also mean a limiter strap relocation kit if you need the front Air bag. I'll be installing in 2004 RX Warrior that has a M10 (that I broke 2 weeks ago)
Hope it's worth the dough!
Here's a tid bit of information. The kit comes with an air bag for the front arm if your weight is 225 or above. That would also mean a limiter strap relocation kit if you need the front Air bag. I'll be installing in 2004 RX Warrior that has a M10 (that I broke 2 weeks ago)
Hope it's worth the dough!
Last edited:
4bangdan
Pro
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2005
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- 187
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- Fort Kent, Maine
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2004 yamaha rx1 2015 yamaha apex xtx
The front air bag is actually a aluminum shock with a rolling sleeve air chamber around the top of it. Look on the fast website and you will see what it looks like. This only needs about 28 lbs of air. The rear bag will need about 88 lbs at your weight.I just got off the phone with Fast. My M20 airwave booster kit will ship out early next week. They need to set everything up for my weight. I opted for the braided line without on board compressor.
Here's a tid bit of information. The kit comes with an air bag for the front arm if your weight is 225 or above. That would also mean a limiter strap relocation kit if you need the front Air bag. I'll be installing in 2004 RX Warrior that has a M10 (that I broke 2 weeks ago)
Hope it's worth the dough!
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Ok I get it. The kit I get may not have that sleeve on the front shock cause I weigh 200.The front air bag is actually a aluminum shock with a rolling sleeve air chamber around the top of it. Look on the fast website and you will see what it looks like. This only needs about 28 lbs of air. The rear bag will need about 88 lbs at your weight.
Redbeard
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- Oct 14, 2011
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- IN
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- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex, 136 M20, PB80
2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Al, the booster kit will effectively turn your M10 into an M20, so I'm curious if you have to drill new holes to relocate the front arm?
Also, if you want the MOST from your booster kit, I would recommend an on-board compressor! Temperature changes throughout the day, trail conditions, even filling up with gas will have have an impact on ride quality. I can't stress enough the benefits of being able adjust pressure on the go. I will also say from experience that you have to pump and pump a Fox hand pump to fill the volume of rear air spring and achieve the 75 - 85 psi of air you're going to need. You can buy the same compressor that I have online for $65.95 shipped.
I don't want to hi-jack your thread and I'll remove this if you want? Just passing on my honest .02
Also, if you want the MOST from your booster kit, I would recommend an on-board compressor! Temperature changes throughout the day, trail conditions, even filling up with gas will have have an impact on ride quality. I can't stress enough the benefits of being able adjust pressure on the go. I will also say from experience that you have to pump and pump a Fox hand pump to fill the volume of rear air spring and achieve the 75 - 85 psi of air you're going to need. You can buy the same compressor that I have online for $65.95 shipped.
I don't want to hi-jack your thread and I'll remove this if you want? Just passing on my honest .02
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Always feel free to post, you have good information. When talking to fast I specifically asked about mounting location and they assured me unless I had extroverts the mounting location is the same as my M10. As for the compressor, I'll use the information from your thread to hook up one purchased online. Im going to run it manually for whatever riding I have left this year.Al, the booster kit will effectively turn your M10 into an M20, so I'm curious if you have to drill new holes to relocate the front arm?
Also, if you want the MOST from your booster kit, I would recommend an on-board compressor! Temperature changes throughout the day, trail conditions, even filling up with gas will have have an impact on ride quality. I can't stress enough the benefits of being able adjust pressure on the go. I will also say from experience that you have to pump and pump a Fox hand pump to fill the volume of rear air spring and achieve the 75 - 85 psi of air you're going to need. You can buy the same compressor that I have online for $65.95 shipped.
I don't want to hi-jack your thread and I'll remove this if you want? Just passing on my honest .02
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Here we go
Hahaha, leftovers from POO?
Broken M10 arm and shock, ouch!
Hahaha, leftovers from POO?
Broken M10 arm and shock, ouch!
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I'll be needing a new track next year
I think after the M10 arm broke the sharp edge jammed against the bottom of the track.
I think after the M10 arm broke the sharp edge jammed against the bottom of the track.
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Made some progress this weekend. I decided to put the Booster kit in without removing skid because it was easier for me working alone. I supported the rear of the sled and loosened the track all the way. I used a bungee cord to hold the track up.
Used original brackets and same mounting location as M10
Do not use the shipping bolts that come with the M20 to mount the rear shaft to brackets; use your originals.
Used original brackets and same mounting location as M10
Do not use the shipping bolts that come with the M20 to mount the rear shaft to brackets; use your originals.
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Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
This is as far back as I could move the adjuster block. Made sure it's even on both sides.
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I have not bolted the top of the rear air shock yet because I still have the rear of the sled jacked up. I can see why Fast says not to lift the rear of the sled or air shock damage may occur!
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
The new limiter strap location is from the top left of the rear arm to the bottom left of front arm.
The relocation kit
I didn't have time to install this evening
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I did get the front air shock in. I took out almost all the air and was able to compress the shock by hand.
Got into position
Then bolted bottom shaft
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I only put pressure on top eye of shock to compress. The front arm will get a coat of black paint when I replace the track next season. I'll probably have some gussets welded on the top of the arm to strengthen it.
And bolt into place. Made sure Schrader valve was facing out so I could get the air pump on it.
I put 60ish lbs of pressure in the shock to be sure it was working correctly. This cheap foot pump works good. I'll have to find an alternative however as I'm not hauling it around on the trail.
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Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Al, the booster kit will effectively turn your M10 into an M20, so I'm curious if you have to drill new holes to relocate the front arm?
Also, if you want the MOST from your booster kit, I would recommend an on-board compressor! Temperature changes throughout the day, trail conditions, even filling up with gas will have have an impact on ride quality. I can't stress enough the benefits of being able adjust pressure on the go. I will also say from experience that you have to pump and pump a Fox hand pump to fill the volume of rear air spring and achieve the 75 - 85 psi of air you're going to need. You can buy the same compressor that I have online for $65.95 shipped.
I don't want to hi-jack your thread and I'll remove this if you want? Just passing on my honest .02
I Google searched the part # on the rear air shock top cap and this is what I came up with. Stick with team fast one, it's custom made. (Thanks NS for research)
I believe the bottom cap just screws onto the aluminum shaft, but not sure if the stud is on the cap or shaft. Anyone that knows please chime in.
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Elton Buss
Lifetime Member
Albundy, I had one of those fail on me. The rubber pulled out of the steel compression ring at the bottom. I had Fast send me another one I believe they are 114$ from them. I'm not sure if Fast has them made specifically for that application. Does the bottom of the air bag get bolted to an aluminum arm that also locates the inner idler wheels just behind the front w arm?
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