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Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 1.0)

Only downsides I saw or experienced were $ and reduced weight shift.

I was the only Apex of 4 without the Air20 on about a 900 mile + long 4 day weekend in the UP.

My Apex was fine but theirs no doubt were SMOOTHER.
I agree, they're not cheap! However, when you go home with minimal aches and pains after a 1000 mile week, it's worth it.

In addition, these 4-stroke's appear to be lasting indefinitely. I feel the M20 would be a great way to upgrade an aging sled, which would be cheaper than trading for a newer model.

That's just my 2¢. :)
 
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So these slides fit and are not loose fitting?
That's correct! The above listed part number is for a Polaris rail profile, which the M20 has, and fits the rail correctly.
 
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FIVE YEAR INSPECTION REPORT:

After 5 consecutive winters of abuse, I've not found any damage or excessive wear to the suspension components. The idler wheels are starting to show their age, but they'll run another couple seasons with no worries.

Upon inspection, I did find rubber transfer to my tunnel runner's. I originally thought these might not have been necessary, but the track rubber transfer tells me otherwise. ;)

No other suspension or air system updates at this time. I did fashion some clips to keep the suspension arms collapsed for easier, one person removal/installation.

Only two seasons on the pictured left drive axle bearing and it's dry and scratchy! Notice the sand? I do not repack roller ball bearings. I toss them.

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Is that a PB 80 primary I see?
Yes sir! There are no traditional flyweights, pins, rollers or bushings; modern day, old technology. It can't be ultra fine tuned like a stock clutch, but it's easy to calibrate and it works well for the average trail rider, like myself.
 
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I made some changes to the mounting location pictures on page 3, post #40.

I'm trying to make the mounting description as clear and simple as possible. :)
 
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A few days ago, I walked past the Apex and the rear end was flat on the ground. All the air had bled out of the shock. I aired it back up and looked for any damage from something I may have left laying in the track. I sprayed soap water on everything, but no bubbles. Yesterday morning, it was flat again. It didn't make sense because it held air all summer.

I removed the airline from the compressor, attached a Schrader valve and inflated the shock independent of the pump. This morning, the airbag was still fully inflated. I then removed all the fittings from the pump, cleaned and applied new thread sealant to everything. As I threaded an elbow into the compressor cylinder head, the female threads split apart. :o| Maybe the thing was already fractured, but I'll take the blame. However, I do feel this is where my leak was coming from.

I called Fast, but they do not offer individual parts for this compressor. I searched online and found a company down in Florida that sells the same pump. They said for me to buy just the head was $50, or the complete unit was $65! Long story...short, I have a new pump coming.

The new compressor is getting moved under the hood. I just don't trust it being mounted to the tunnel. I didn't give it much thought at first, but now I feel there are too many things that can go wrong. A stick or chunk of ice might take it out, not to mention getting bumped in the trailer, etc. There will also be all new plumbing. Since the threads broke so easily, I'm concerned about the weight of all those parts hanging from a single 1/8" diecast aluminum thread port. (see last pic)

I'll post pics of the change when complete.

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I bought My M-20 in 2011 .. My pump is separate and does not have the 4 mounting eyes whit rubber.. Fast Provided a a compressor that has just a U clamp that clamps around the electric Motor.. They use a strip of rubber for padding and put a lock washer between the where a bolt clamps it together. Instructions say if you don't use the washer you will crush your Motor and it won't turn.
I am considering purchasing a compressor like yours .. that I can mount with 4 bolts.. and use the other compressor to carry on a motorcycle .. Its' more compact than a hand pump ... If I was worried about cracking a case I would use liquid thread sealer instead of Teflon tape..

Also my system does not have any solenoids and I am glad.. MY kit has a three position toggle switch .. Neutral more air or let air out.. Same Switch Trucks use with air bag suspension..

Fast Instructions tell to never put air in a collapsed air bag you will destroy it .. You must lift up the back of the sled so the skid hangs when you put air in it.. They suggest storing the sled with the track lifted off from the floor for this reason ..
 
I just returned home from my final trip for the year. Snow conditions were all over the place. Hard and icy to wet and heavy snow the last day. Those conditions are where an onboard air compressor is worth its weight in gold! This is the first trip where I constantly adjusted ski pressure and barely touched the rear.

Ski's:
Hard and icy - 50 psi. The sled just railed with no darting.

Wet and heavy snow - 30 psi. Any higher pressure in this scenario and the sled darted terrible. Ease the pressure down, and she smoothed right out.

Without a compressor, it's likely that I would have missed the sweet spot.

This old sled still runs like new! The front end bushings are getting sloppy, so time for a rebuild this fall. Otherwise, this sled has many years left! The M20 skid needs nothing! :)

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Joe glad you had a good time and all went well. I hope to ride a couple more weeks, we went this week and it was GREAT. Don VX1R was on the northshore this week and he said they had a good ride as well.

Be careful as you begin your busy spring prep and then field work. Say Hi to Mike Trevor and the rest,

I need to get you up here, maybe coordinate a ride with Don, already future dreaming
 


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