Temp Gauge ????????????

[sledheadgeorge]

I have to get a new one. What do you guys like to use best on the RX motor and why? Mechanical or Electric ? :shock:

 

[NY_Nytro]

Mechanical make it easier, but the probes on the mechanicals I've seen are quite large. They may block flow to a greater degree.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

ttt

anyone else :shock:

 

[RobX-1]

I used the Phantom AutoMeter like many others on here. It's a mechanical one and goes real well with the tach. Although this is not a pic of mine, I install my meter in the same position. Also attached, is a pic of the sending unit. I wired mine differntly; did not have the wire wrapped around the T - only wired at the top. You get the sending unit with the meter; all you need to do is buy a 3/4" brass T to splice into the coolant lines and a 1/2" threaded top to screw the sending unit into. There was concern that using straighted end T would not keep the coolant hose on securely but I have not had any issues with them coming since you are adding the T between the two existing coolant pipes and it keeps the T fixed. I can't find the exact T I got from Home Depot but here is a 3/4" T I got at Lowes but took back because the threaded end was not 1/2"; was also 3/4" so I would have had to by a 3/4" to 1/2" male hose to female adapter. Here are pics of the stuff I found at Lowes but just remember, you can get the 3/4" T with the 1/2" threaded end at Home Depot or some other place.

At least this should give you some idea of what others have used.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

I used the Phantom AutoMeter like many others on here. It's a mechanical one and goes real well with the tach. Although this is not a pic of mine, I install my meter in the same position. Also attached, is a pic of the sending unit. I wired mine differntly; did not have the wire wrapped around the T - only wired at the top. You get the sending unit with the meter; all you need to do is buy a 3/4" brass T to splice into the coolant lines and a 1/2" threaded top to screw the sending unit into. There was concern that using straighted end T would not keep the coolant hose on securely but I have not had any issues with them coming since you are adding the T between the two existing coolant pipes and it keeps the T fixed. I can't find the exact T I got from Home Depot but here is a 3/4" T I got at Lowes but took back because the threaded end was not 1/2"; was also 3/4" so I would have had to by a 3/4" to 1/2" male hose to female adapter. Here are pics of the stuff I found at Lowes but just remember, you can get the 3/4" T with the 1/2" threaded end at Home Depot or some other place.

At least this should give you some idea of what others have used.

What if you extended the T so the probe does not interfear with the flow? :shock: Would that not be better for a mechanical unit to operate? :shock:

 

[NY_Nytro]

I used the Phantom AutoMeter like many others on here. It's a mechanical one and goes real well with the tach. Although this is not a pic of mine, I install my meter in the same position. Also attached, is a pic of the sending unit. I wired mine differntly; did not have the wire wrapped around the T - only wired at the top. .

That meter shown is electrical, is yours mechanical?

Here is a pic of my electrical meter, cost about $30.

 

[RobX-1]

I used the Phantom AutoMeter like many others on here. It's a mechanical one and goes real well with the tach. Although this is not a pic of mine, I install my meter in the same position. Also attached, is a pic of the sending unit. I wired mine differntly; did not have the wire wrapped around the T - only wired at the top. .

That meter shown is electrical, is yours mechanical?

Here is a pic of my electrical meter, cost about $30.

NY Warrior,

My mistake. I have the same temp gauge and you're right, it's electrical. It was late when I responded and for some odd reason I was thinking he was asking about this style and the digital gauges.

sledheadgeorge, those Ts are fairly long so I doubt the sensor is actually interferring with the coolant flow. Remember, that is NOT the T I ended up using; just wanted to post some pics so you got the general idea. As you can see in this pic, the sensor, when fully seated, should not interfere with the flow.

 

[BURMAD69]

The best setup to use is Autometer Phantom guage and the fittings shown here, u wont have any problem with restrictions at all..

 

[sledheadgeorge]

Well, I already have an Auto Meter mechanical gauge to use but if I cannot get the probe far enough back away from the flow I will go with an electrical unit.

 

[Mighty]

Hey, some of those pics are from my Warrior, where did you get them Rob?

 

[RobX-1]

Hey, some of those pics are from my Warrior, where did you get them Rob?

Downloaded them as well as others for reference when installing my temp gage kit. I ended up going with your recommendation on the Phatom Autometer. The only thing I did differently was I didn't ground to the temp sensor; no problems to-date.

Although I do have wireless internet & notebook, I find it easier to cut-n-paste info/pics from certain post and then print off for reference; keeps the grease off my keyboard.

 

[170plus]

i installed a mechanical guage in rx1 the other day,the probe coming out of the back of the guage was really close to the headlight electrical socket but did fit,for the sensor end of the probe near the motor i used a pvc tee then adapted it to the fitting supplied with the guage,i installed it between the thermostat housing and the first metal line going into the top of the head,it was easier there because the thermostat housing allowed some room to install the short pieces of hose,its a little bigger hose diameter also then the hose between the 2 metal coolant pipes from the head and on the right side of the motor you could lay the fitting toward the front of the sled for a more direct connection from the capillary line running from the gauge to the t-fitting,hope this helps

 

[JDMCRX]

Nice job man love it

 

[Yama-Crazy]

Do I really need an erectifier like Starting line products tells me? where are you guys wiring to ...right to the battery? They tell me all sleds produce ac and convert to dc and even if I go thru the battery I'm still not protected against surge and the guage isn't protected. His guage is $107 splitter is $25 and sending unit $27 so $160 in all. I like the splitter http://www.startinglineproducts.com/cat ... ductID=512 but the guage auto-meter phantom will not match my speedo I need black background and white needle and #'s one they found me that matches is $71.00 and he isn't sure if its electrical or mechanical I'd have to call someone else to find out he says???? THERES GOT TO BE some answers here I'm getting really frustrated!!! HELP!!!

 

[NY_Nytro]

You can run power direct from the battery to the gauge.

I took power from the little fuse box by the brake rotor on my Warrior.

Either way there is NO need for a rectifier.