That Sweet Spot

[Tfin]

I have the springs of my ski shocks set at the stock setting, three more turns of pre-load dialed into my front track shock spring, torsion springs set at MED, two more turns of transfer dialed into each rod, and the anti-bottoming stoppers removed all together.

My Vector rides and handles like a dream! I weigh in at around 185 or so with gear and only bottom on the harshes to hits. I can eat mogals and chop with ease. I actually find myself being able to accelerate in conditions where I used to have to slow down.

I agree that the rear track shock is no where near capable of performing at the level it should be.

For those that say it rides like crap, I can only believe that you either recieved "bad shocks/spring" (it happens) and/or your setup is not where it should be. The skid works. Theres enough out there that have proven it does....and no we're not all coming off 1980 something sleds either.

 

[Blue Giant]

Ok folks, quick recap:

Ski shocks set on med.
Front skid shock set halfway between med and hard.
Rear cam on med.
Transfer rods on med.

Got out for a rip today and the sled handles and rides much better. I'm back to a fair but of ski lift when accelerating out of corners but I will try to tame this by taking some transfer out one turn at a time.(or should I set the front skid shock to med?)



Paul aka Blue Giant

 

[MadMax]

Was that the factory wheel that went for a ride???? If it was a colored replacement wheel then it requires a longer bolt...... Hmmmmmmmmmm.MM.

 

[Groomerdriver]

Was that the factory wheel that went for a ride???? If it was a colored replacement wheel then it requires a longer bolt...... Hmmmmmmmmmm.MM.

Colored accessory on both sides. LHF wheel looked OK to me! Still at dealer. He's going thru the skid, revalving the front ski shocks (mite hafta go to a higher rate spring tho) and checking the valving then revalving the front track shock. He thinks 90% of my ride issue is the front shock is valved WAY TOO stiff. We'll see once he gets it out.

Going ice fishing tomorrow....cant go riding!!!!

 

[MadMax]

Those need the longer bolts.. Check to see if they bothered to install them.. They don't come with the wheels..They need to be ordered seperately. MM.

 

[Groomerdriver]

Those need the longer bolts.. Check to see if they bothered to install them.. They don't come with the wheels..They need to be ordered seperately. MM.

you have them on yours?? if so can you post a pic? how far out does the bolt stick past the nut??

 

[rodeo9119]

POOR HANDLING

I agree with everyone to an extent. TMS, I do love my Vector, but to an extent if you are sitting you must admit it hops and darts if you're doing 70+ and it definitely has Yamaha tipsiness on corners. However, a suggestion to the rest of you who are having trouble with this. I just put on 300 + miles this last weekend and learned that if you are really blazing, stand up and put a little down pressure on your handle bars. It definitely seems to be a standup style sled and you get so much better control in cornering. I also recommend getting rid of the 4 inch carbides that come stock! Put on 6" or even 8" if you are have studs. The 6 inchers help tremendously on cornering at higher speeds.
Messing with your front suspension is going to make you lose performance in other areas... If you firm it up for cornering, you with dart more on the straights when you hit small bumps... If you soften up the fronts, you with have less dartiness on straights, but more tipsiness in the corners especially at higher speeds. Hope this helps some of you. Good Luck and happy sledding! -Liquid Silver Vector

 

[STORM-CHASER]

Those need the longer bolts.. Check to see if they bothered to install them.. They don't come with the wheels..They need to be ordered seperately. MM.

you have them on yours?? if so can you post a pic? how far out does the bolt stick past the nut??

The new bolts should be 85mm

 

[Yama-Crazy]

Re: POOR HANDLING

I agree with everyone to an extent. TMS, I do love my Vector, but to an extent if you are sitting you must admit it hops and darts if you're doing 70+ and it definitely has Yamaha tipsiness on corners. However, a suggestion to the rest of you who are having trouble with this. I just put on 300 + miles this last weekend and learned that if you are really blazing, stand up and put a little down pressure on your handle bars. It definitely seems to be a standup style sled and you get so much better control in cornering. I also recommend getting rid of the 4 inch carbides that come stock! Put on 6" or even 8" if you are have studs. The 6 inchers help tremendously on cornering at higher speeds.
Messing with your front suspension is going to make you lose performance in other areas... If you firm it up for cornering, you with dart more on the straights when you hit small bumps... If you soften up the fronts, you with have less dartiness on straights, but more tipsiness in the corners especially at higher speeds. Hope this helps some of you. Good Luck and happy sledding! -Liquid Silver Vector

>>>>(If you soften up the fronts, you with have less dartiness on straights, but more tipsiness in the corners especially at higher speeds.) But you can add a larger 12-13mm sway bar or maybe add alittle stiffer spring

 

[twomorestrokes]

There are a lot of adjustments on the front and rear suspension that need to work along with each other. If you pull the straps down a notch and lighten the center and front shock preload slightly, shouldn't the actual spring perform pretty much the same only with a lower height?

 

[MadMax]

Those need the longer bolts.. Check to see if they bothered to install them.. They don't come with the wheels..They need to be ordered seperately. MM.

you have them on yours?? if so can you post a pic? how far out does the bolt stick past the nut??

Here is the yammie Part # 95817-10085-00..Hope this helps. I don't have any pictures of it.. MM.