Thumb Warmer Low - Not Wired?

[Turtle]

Since brand new, I've always questioned whether or not my thumb warmer was actually working. Many days I had no issue as my thumb wasn't cold, and I simply assumed it was working even though I couldn't feel it. Other days, my thumb was a meat popsicle and I swore the warmer wasn't working.

So last night I began to do some investigating in mind that I would be turning in a warranty claim on something that wasn't working. One thing that I validated was the fact that the resistance on the hi portion of the warmer was out of spec. It measured in a 16 ohms, and the spec is 1.5-6.9 ohms (found in the service manual). But I went to test the switch per the service manual, and ended up discovering that the low part of the circuit doesn't even exist!!! There is a low heating element that measured within the resistance spec. But when I tested the low switch circuit, it failed per the service manual. Then after looking at the wiring schematic, I see that the low part of the switch goes NOWHERE!

A screen shot portion of the schematic is shown below. Am I interpretting this correct in that we really don't have a low option on the thumb warmer???

If you want to see the whole schematic for the handlebars, it is posted here:
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/anyone-have-a-legable-wire-schematic.141871/#post-1297360

 

[blueironranger]

Really could explain why mine is on high all the time to feel anything, and I need to take my glove off to actually feel heat. Low seems to do nothing on mine.

 

[cannondale27]

Wow. Should be able to verify by looking in the block.i know mine had low but I do have Rocks boost with Yamaha lever conversion.

 

[Rockmeister]

It is actually connected, just an error on the schematic.
Will be releasing the Thumb Fix in a week or so.
Just waiting on the final parts to arrive so we can finish the kits.

PS
The spec is temperature dependant, if you run it and then measure it, the value will be out of spec.
To compare it to spec, the element must be at the spec temp.

 

[Turtle]

Hmmm .... Well, I know the heating element resistance is out of spec. So that's a clear warranty claim. Tonight I'll actually check out the switch itself to see if I get power for both the low and high settings.

 

[MrSled]

I was replacing my grips on the Viper to smaller ones like the Winders has, you can feel the heat more but as I replaced one side I wrecked one of my elements. Anyway I tested the Voltage to the thumb and found both high and low has the same voltage going to it so the resistance is what make the high and low change. The grips are not like that.. they voltage actually changes on the high and low circuits.. I was just going to post in that thread just due to the fact the thumb-warmer sucks.

 

[MrSled]

It is actually connected, just an error on the schematic.
Will be releasing the Thumb Fix in a week or so.
Just waiting on the final parts to arrive so we can finish the kits.

PS
The spec is temperature dependant, if you run it and then measure it, the value will be out of spec.
To compare it to spec, the element must be at the spec temp.

Bla bla bla, drop the hammer on this before they change the thumb warmer and no one wants them..LOL

 

[Turtle]

So I did confirm that the thumb warmer switch does actually work on both low and high settings. The schematic is wrong. My low setting does work, albeit poorly at best. And my high works even worse. Knowing the resistance is out of spec, I'll get the heating element replaced under warranty.

And to @Rockmeister point ... I checked the resistance of the heating elements in my heated workshop (kept at 65 deg F) when the sled hadn't been used for a couple days. So the element was very close to the temp needed for a proper resistance reading.

 

[InRBigness]

I would assume they are like the seat warmer that uses the amount of resistance to set the heat. The lower the resistance the more the heat.