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Time to make the Donuts?

Gone Blue

VIP Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
1,627
Age
62
Location
Howell, Michigan
Country
USA
Snowmobile
08' Nytro RTX 40th Anniversary - Stretched
Hey guys, I have my 09' Phazer torn down for a little PM this summer. One of the things I wanted to look at was the donuts. My sled has around 5,000 miles on it and I have owned it since it had 189 miles on it so the donuts are original. I periodically close off the exhaust when the sled is running to check for donut leaks but since I wanted to pull the gas tank to install an OFT steering post bearing mount, I thought I would check the donuts. I have a set of copper donuts that I got from Alan Ulmer and put on the shelf for when I needed them.

So after removing the upper heat shield, you can see in the picture that everything is nice and clean with no signs of leaks. So I am trying to decide if I should take it apart and replace the donuts now or wait after some more miles? I was hoping I could look under the clamps and see the OEM donuts without taking it apart but you really cant. I am all about PM but also hate to mess with a perfectly good running sled if I don't have to.

So what you guys think? Should I replace the donuts now or later?

Thanks, G.B.




Donuts.jpg
 

I think that if it were my sled and I were that far into it already, I would continue with just a little more work and replace them. It's difficult to say how much longer the originals will last, but if you've already got 5,000 miles on them, then they've served well. I would simply replace them as a preventative measure, to avoid any down time during the upcoming season, as well as for the peace of mind of knowing it's been done.
 
If you were to remove those clamps, you will likely see that the donuts are down to bare mesh. Mine we like that with less mileage. You're already there and you have them so might as well do them.
 
Replace them.....you are all but there. Keep in mind the longer they go untouched, the tougher it becomes to get the hardware apart to remove the exhaust!

Also good time to check exhaust for stress cracks. Have had a few guys that had muffler break off from the mid pipe section.
 
Change them now! Once they leak they quickly burn out the lining in the heat shield and then you'll be buying one of those too. They are expensive, and the copper donuts are cheap prevention by comparison.
 
Thanks guys for all your comments. I appreciate the input for sure. I also have the sled stripped down to add an OFT steering shaft bearing block. So I figure I could take care of both that and the donuts now.

Question: Do I need to take the seat support frame and the complete exhaust off to replace the donuts. Yes? I figure you need to be able to move the exhaust reward to replace the donuts.

Thanks again, G.B.
 
No, you undo the two allen screws on top of the tunnel (black recess), the other two bolts, the clamps and slide the exhaust back. Check the pipe at the Y for cracks. Mine completely broke and had to get it welded.

Edit: Forgot this was on a Phazer, not an MP. I don't think you need to remove the seat rail though but IIRC you'll need to undo some bolts to get the exhaust to move back.
 
No, you undo the two allen screws on top of the tunnel (black recess), the other two bolts, the clamps and slide the exhaust back. Check the pipe at the Y for cracks. Mine completely broke and had to get it welded.

Edit: Forgot this was on a Phazer, not an MP. I don't think you need to remove the seat rail though but IIRC you'll need to undo some bolts to get the exhaust to move back.

I will take another look at the set up next time I am in the garage. I was reading Yamahas thread in the the "Frequently asked Questions on Phazers" section and it looks like he removed the seat frame and exhaust as one piece?

Thanks, G.B.
 
Maybe for the complete removal of the exhaust but I don't think it's necessary just to move it back.
 
Thought I would post an update. When I went to loosen the clamp bolts I found little to no torque on them. There was no sign of the donuts leaking. Taking the original donuts out I found them to be about 2/3 of the original thickness. So I think it was time to replace them before I had them leak possibly this upcoming season. Thanks again for everyone's comments and input above. G.B.
 
If the clamps are loose grind/file some material off the boss so the clamp doesn't bottom out before getting tight on the pipes.
 
If the clamps are loose grind/file some material off the boss so the clamp doesn't bottom out before getting tight on the pipes.
The clamp bolts were barely tight with the original donuts and 5,000 miles on them. After putting new copper ones in the clamps torque down as they should. Thanks, G.B.
 


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