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TOP END ?

I'm dumping my 136 Ripsaw off my attack. I'm going to run either a .75 or a 1 inch track. I haven't decided which.

My decision to do so was finalized when I watched the LP videos from a recent up-hill snow drag. They were racing guys with 2 inch paddles and beating them out of the whole with 136*15*.75 tracks. The 1.25 tracks might be better in powder snow. But I'm not a powder racer.

I also have some experience with Unstudded and studded ripsaws. My buddy was running a unstudded ripsaw in his 04 viper. I put a ripsaw with 96 studs in my wifes 03. The traction was night and day different. I couldn't believe how well the the studded track came out compared to the unstudded. I thought the ripsaw didn't really need studs. I was wrong!!!!
 

I just spoke to one of the editors from SnowTrax magazine and he did indicate that with the amount of torque that 4 strokes, 4 cylinders produce or any big hp sled, that all of those sleds require a 1.25" track. If not they just do not perform, the way they should. He also noted that he would give up the couple of mph that you may lose from going to a bigger track, than having a 1" and losing performance. I'm thinking, I am going to try the ripsaw the first year and put 96 studs down the center and then go from there. I'm going to run it first without the studs and then run it with the studs to see the difference in top-end speed on my GPS after the motor is broke in. I'm still waiting from feedback from SnowTech mag and when I get it, I will post it.
 
pic

This is with a 9830 and 192 1.340 roetins. that's bare ice I'm racing on. the 1.25 track may work better in deep poweder snow but a short track with long studs works better on any type of hard pack.
 

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COLDONE said:
I agree a shorter lug with the right studs is much better for racing!!!

Trail riding I wouldn't go that route!!!

JMO!

BR
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Yes, I agree, It would have way too much byte in the corners and the sled would just high side.
 
Jason, come on now; what do you expect when you put 325 on the tail of any sled and jump on the throttle :tg:
 
MightyWarrior: Not that it matters but I weights about 225 in that picture.

Got anything to add to the post that might help the guy with his question? So far this is all you've said



To answer your question; Yes you would achieve more topend installing a lower profile track
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Yes
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Jason, come on now; what do you expect when you put 325 on the tail of any sled and jump on the throttle
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WOW I think i know why you have 3500 posts now. :moon:
 
jts, some forums I am on wont even let you submit a post unless it has to characters, and it wont count as a post if it is not a complete sentence with a period at the end.

As far as the track goes, that old .75 yokohama fully clipped track did have very good top end.
Here is what I would do, if your goal is only to have the highest top speed, go with a lower profile track, even a finger track. But if you are also trail riding and hitting some powder, you will be making too big of a compromise.
 
Tork: The funny part of the post thing Is I don't give a crap how many times someone posts. It's any easy way to get under Dans skin.



I have mixed feelings on deep lug tracks. To be honest I think they are useless. Unless your a mountain guy that rides in deep powder I don't think there is a need to have one. Neon Phil Beat about 35 sleds in a 1000 feet in 14 inches of snow with a speed track at the Phat Man Challenge. I know he had the most HP but it was from start to finish and out of that 35 there were 10 sleds that were very fast and he beat them to
 
I know you are just giving him some jabs. Just mentioning what they do on other forums, like you are mentioning what is the best set-up for competition.
I will say this, for a sled I was not going to stud, I would want the 1.25 ripsaw. Over the years it seems that Yamaha is not so fond of studding. They dont want company owned demo sleds for employees studded for example. That could be why they have adopted that track.

Going back to the old .75 track, it was not all that bad if you put at least 120 studs on it
 
The first two replies were informative, the last was not, you got me :? I'm sure all of your posts are informative and to the point right :tg:
 
Isn't that wheelie picture also done with an expert x set to full transfer? How easy would a stock sled pull a wheelie like that?

Yes these are seriuos questions, not bustin balls.
 
wizard said:
Isn't that wheelie picture also done with an expert x set to full transfer? How easy would a stock sled pull a wheelie like that?

Yes these are seriuos questions, not bustin balls.
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Good observation wizard and I wondered the same thing.
 
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