TORS problem

[Silver_Ghost]

I think this is the way you bypass the TORS on the VECTOR

See the pics below.

There are two plugs, one white and one black, they each have a single wire in them. Unplug them both and plug the two that come up from the engine compartment together. TORS is bypassed...

I think this is the way you do it....

 

[WFO]

Silver_Ghost.........Thanks. I found the wires. The wires coming from the engine, I plug together. The wires coming from the throttle, I just leave disconnected. Correct?

 

[nty]

By pass

Correct.

 

[snowman3687]

Has anyone got an answer from a yamaha dealer about what exactly is causing this problem. I have been to a few dealers and they don't even know anything about it.

 

[Port-Parts]

For 2005 on the RS sleds the TORS system is using a handlebar switch and the TPS sensor in order to operate. In the past they had used the handlebar switch and a switch located on the carb rack to operate the system. Using the TPS sensor instead of the carb rack switch is making this system much more sensitive. Cable routing is definitely one thing too look at first. Make sure your idle is set between 1300-1500 (don't follow the tip from fellow RX owners to bump up the idle to eliminate the clutch noise-fix on the way for that also). You should also have 3-4 mm of throttle free play measured at the handlebars. These items should cure the majority of problems with the TORS issues. If you still have problems the TPS voltage at idle should be looked at.

The TORS system is a safety system designed to shut down the engine if the throttle should ever stick. The system uses a swith on the throttle and the TPS sensor to tell the CDI if the thottle is open or closed. If the system sees a closed throttle but not a low enough TPS signal the TORS system will operate shutting the engine down. One other funny thing I have noticed is if these snowmobiles sit out over night during a snowfall or ridden in heavy powder some ice can form inside the throttle pivot and cause the lever to pivot ahead and not fully return thus eliminating the throttle freeplay. This scenario causes the throttle switch to close but not quite fully return the carbs to a low enough TPS setting so the TORS will kick on. This leads me to also wonder if when people are having the problem alot of people say it is when they let off the throttle. This might also be a situation where the throttle pivot is pushed ahead and not fully returned as the driver doesn't let go of the throttle lever but keeps some tension on it. This would cause the thottle switch to close but not a low enough TPS reading also.

 

[SledderSteve]

Good explanation Kevin

Is there a "fix" on the way for this to keep people like me from trying to adjust it until it doesn't work at all?

 

[Port-Parts]

SS

We should check the basics on yours one more time. Throttle cable routing, idle speed, and throttle freeplay (3-4mm). If they all look good we will have to take a voltmeter to yours to see what your TPS is reading at idle and see if it needs a little attitude adjustment.

 

[Waldo]

SS

We should check the basics on yours one more time. Throttle cable routing, idle speed, and throttle freeplay (3-4mm). If they all look good we will have to take a voltmeter to yours to see what your TPS is reading at idle and see if it needs a little attitude adjustment.

Picked my Wife's Rage up from the dealer.....he did all to specs.......I told him about all of us online that are having problems, and when he started the sled to get it on my pickup, it started acting up again.....He called Yam,
and read the voltage......it was dead in the middle 7vdc...........adjusted it again, and we took off............Her sled went about 2 miles and it acted up again...........this time I bypassed it.....! BUT, there was a pile more than 3mm freeplay.......and it was dead on when they fixed it..........! Later in the day my Rage, which has never had an issue started acting up. Twice the Tors cut in. I checked the freeplay, and it's way beyond 3mm. That's 2 out of 2 of my Rage's that are acting up. I think the throttle cable is stretching somehow.

 

[twomorestrokes]

routing

SS

We should check the basics on yours one more time. Throttle cable routing, idle speed, and throttle freeplay (3-4mm). If they all look good we will have to take a voltmeter to yours to see what your TPS is reading at idle and see if it needs a little attitude adjustment.

Mine has not acted up at all in the last 660 miles since the throttle cable was rerouted.

 

[milljk]

twomo, can you post some pics of the cable routing? If I adjsut to 4mm of freeplay, it looks as if at WOT the cable doesn't pull to full throtle stop. I have mine bypassed for now until i can get it into dealer to check voltage on TPS. Still waiting for my Service manual to come in so I can start doing more myself. May install tether system and just leave TORS bypassed.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I'm a fossil

Hmmm. I wish I had a digital camera. I'm living in the last century. I wish I would have questioned Nelson's a little more about the repair, but at the time I didn't know the issue was so wide spread. All I cared about is that they said they were certain that they had it fixed. I'll take a look at it tonight while I'm putting the rest of the studs in. I don't have my shop manual here, but I don't recall it being very specific about routing.

 

[QCRider]

Just got out for an hour and a half with my RX and the Wife on her Vector. We didn't make it 200 yards before her TORS was acting up. Bypassed it as shown above and the sled ran fine. What bugs me about all of this is that Yamaha has this quality reputation, and a sled that has literally 5 miles on it won't run right. I have owned the supposedly bad quality Arctic Cats for years, and every one I ever bought you got on it turned the key and drove away. Now with this sled I have a loud track, hard plastic bogey wheels, an incredibly noisy clutch, a sled that won't run with a less than optimal charge on the battery, and a sled that won't run with the TORS system not bypassed. It had better get better fast.

These issues should not exist on a $7,000 plus sled.

 

[stevenknapp]

a sled that won't run with a less than optimal charge on the battery

What's the story there?

 

[QCRider]

a sled that won't run with a less than optimal charge on the battery

What's the story there?

http://www.rx1.info/viewtopic.php?t=9791

See this thread.

 

[twomorestrokes]

routing

I looked at the cable routing last night and didn't see anything spectacular. With the bar pad off it is a pretty simple routing from the lever to the carbs. The main thing I saw was that the cable did not make any sharp bends, it had an easy radius straight through everything. It went inside of the gold colored retainer bracket hooked to the bar riser, but stayed forward of any of the wire harneses and forward of the bulkhead support that holds the steering shaft. I wish I would have seen where it was located before they supposedly re-routed it. I suppose it could have been routed behind the bulkhead support, and that would have put a good bind on it.

QC, sounds like your sled is one of the more problematic ones out there. Think you should get a new battery out of your dealer? Mine cranks just fine and the lights come on right away regardless of the temperature. (Knock on wood)