i noticed my track is a little off alighnment i do the finger test with the back wheels gonna try to get'er lighned up
SERPAGS
Expert
Just so I get this straight...looser is better than tighter ???
there' is a "sweet spot"....too loose and you ratchet or start hitting with track studs
(ballooning)
...too tight and you cause friction and lose performance...the loosest you can run without any negative's such as hitting or ratcheting is free horsepower ..
also for very agressive riders too loose can cause track derailing easier.
(ballooning)
...too tight and you cause friction and lose performance...the loosest you can run without any negative's such as hitting or ratcheting is free horsepower ..
also for very agressive riders too loose can cause track derailing easier.
craze1cars
VIP Member
I think the jury is out on which is "better" as it largely depends on your goals.
For all around trail riding generally looser is better due to less friction. But at higher speeds, a loose track will balloon, which causes a host of other inefficiencies primarly due to air resistance. So for max top speed I believe generally you want it significantly tighter. But again too tight will cause greater heat build-up and friction. And as was mentioned aggressiveness plays a roll. Lots of jumping and track spinning and sideways sliding through moguls on hardpack will require a tighter track...as will grass drags, asphalt drags, and the stresses of powder riding with paddle tracks. Mountain riders generally need a lot more tension in spring than they do in soft mid winter fluff. The extra rotating mass and traction offered by studs plays a big roll as well. And the longer your track, the more sensitive it is to a tension adjustment...shorties are more forgiving.
I personally recommend everyone experiment. Forget the factory specs and find the best tension for your sled, setup, preferences, riding style, and conditions. It can change. It's an adjustment that's almost completely harmless and easy to play with as long as you keep the track aligned.
For all around trail riding generally looser is better due to less friction. But at higher speeds, a loose track will balloon, which causes a host of other inefficiencies primarly due to air resistance. So for max top speed I believe generally you want it significantly tighter. But again too tight will cause greater heat build-up and friction. And as was mentioned aggressiveness plays a roll. Lots of jumping and track spinning and sideways sliding through moguls on hardpack will require a tighter track...as will grass drags, asphalt drags, and the stresses of powder riding with paddle tracks. Mountain riders generally need a lot more tension in spring than they do in soft mid winter fluff. The extra rotating mass and traction offered by studs plays a big roll as well. And the longer your track, the more sensitive it is to a tension adjustment...shorties are more forgiving.
I personally recommend everyone experiment. Forget the factory specs and find the best tension for your sled, setup, preferences, riding style, and conditions. It can change. It's an adjustment that's almost completely harmless and easy to play with as long as you keep the track aligned.
