Is anyone doing this, or is it too risky. I am going to be switching tracks back and forth to go west and would like to take out the protectors for the bigger track. When I have the shorter track in will I need studs to keep it handling safely.
Thought about going to the Cobra, would that help.
thanks,
kirk
Thought about going to the Cobra, would that help.
thanks,
kirk
1CrazySledder
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I tried it last season. Only 5-7lbs of boost with a 144X1.5 lug track, no studs. Wasn't a good season for me. lol
No traction coming into the corners, lost it once and bounced of a tree. Destroyed my left foot well, side cover and exhaust cover. Always spinning the track. All I was doing was throwing snow 15' behind the sled, people behind me weren't happy at all. Plus all I did was "sweep" corners. My sled left no snow in the corners, and this was with out trying to do that. The extra hp just spins the hell out of the track. I even geared tall to try to reduce the spin with no improvement. ( 25/40 )
Had another deal where I was on a trail, started going up a simple hill that nothing but ice under the snow. Well, my sled removed all the snow, got about half way and started to come back down backwards. Brakes were no good. All I could do was keep the sled strait as I was sliding backwards down the hill.
Yeap, studs for me this year, period.
My plan is to put my protectors back in, notch the 1.5, and run with a 144X1" OR 1.25" track with studs. Use this track on the trailes here in WI, and use the 1.5 for places like the U.P. later into the season when there is allot of snow.
No traction coming into the corners, lost it once and bounced of a tree. Destroyed my left foot well, side cover and exhaust cover. Always spinning the track. All I was doing was throwing snow 15' behind the sled, people behind me weren't happy at all. Plus all I did was "sweep" corners. My sled left no snow in the corners, and this was with out trying to do that. The extra hp just spins the hell out of the track. I even geared tall to try to reduce the spin with no improvement. ( 25/40 )
Had another deal where I was on a trail, started going up a simple hill that nothing but ice under the snow. Well, my sled removed all the snow, got about half way and started to come back down backwards. Brakes were no good. All I could do was keep the sled strait as I was sliding backwards down the hill.
Yeap, studs for me this year, period.
My plan is to put my protectors back in, notch the 1.5, and run with a 144X1" OR 1.25" track with studs. Use this track on the trailes here in WI, and use the 1.5 for places like the U.P. later into the season when there is allot of snow.
my trail supercharger apex has no studs on it.when there s pack snow on the trails it a blast to ride.you only have to watch for those icy patches.
Turbo sled with no picks is like a top fuel dragster with street radials. Just a spinning......everywhere!!! even with alot of picks, they still spin some on trails.
The mountain guys might disagree!!!
rxrider
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As long as trails are good with a good base of hardpacked snow it's no problem riding without studs/pics. Icy trails, rivers and lakes and it becomes a hazard riding without studs.
I rode both ways last season with no problems because we got dumped on the last month of last season making the trails just great, I have to say I did not miss the studs on second.
My trail sled (Apex RTX) has 96 down the middle for safety only, riding in other areas far from home you'll never know how the trails are gonna be.
I rode both ways last season with no problems because we got dumped on the last month of last season making the trails just great, I have to say I did not miss the studs on second.
My trail sled (Apex RTX) has 96 down the middle for safety only, riding in other areas far from home you'll never know how the trails are gonna be.
Everyone is going to have their own opinions here!!!! Turbo'd or stock it doesn't really matter, it really depends on what type of conditions you have and how you ride it!!! Some people go with lots of studs, some go with few, some go with none. I'm not much help here am I, lol.
mbarryracing
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Turk said:
Yeah, it's all back to the conditions. If there is nothing solid for studs to bite into, they will be like a hot knife thru butter and just add mass to your track. So, again, it's just going to matter geographically where you ride... But your going from powder in the mountains to hardpack in a lower elevation? Oh boy...
sounds like it is what I thought, should leave the protectors in and be able to stud my flatland track. Now I will have to notch my mountain track for the protectors unless someone has come up with a good way to put the front protectors in and out without welding and cutting. Open to suggestions
Thanks
Thanks
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
I found trail riding with a high HP sled that if you have to many IE Turbo apex with 144+ seems that it balloons the track far to much in highspeed runs with risk of track blowing since they are so damn fast. To me if you want to run 130 mph stick with 144 studs and a 1.25" ripsaw anything more then that and it should be a speed track.
mr.
Newbie
got a s/c nytro i stretched to 136 and cut a 2" track down to 1-3/4 left protectors in also notched track.(i wanted to run studs when i got back home) went to the mountains for ten days. nothing stock was climbing higher any length track. went home didnt bother with the studded 1-1/4. the cut down track lugs being cut stayed stiff and hooked up very well. another option if you dont ride ice or very hard pack much.
