Trailer floor finishing.

[yamagone]

Has anyone tried or seen an enclosed sled trailer with the same material sprayed in truck beds? The stuff inside of my 2012 RAM from the factory is bullet proof! I'd like to see about doing the floor and kick plate of my sled trailer. Thanks.

 

[yamagone]

Has anyone tried or seen an enclosed sled trailer with the same material sprayed in truck beds? The stuff inside of my 2012 RAM from the factory is bullet proof! I'd like to see about doing the floor and kick plate of my sled trailer. Thanks.

@#$% I just looked into Line-X. $6.50/square ft! Would cost me about a grand to do my 7x18 including the kick plate. Ouch!

 

[APEX 06]

Has anyone tried or seen an enclosed sled trailer with the same material sprayed in truck beds? The stuff inside of my 2012 RAM from the factory is bullet proof! I'd like to see about doing the floor and kick plate of my sled trailer. Thanks.

@#$% I just looked into Line-X. $6.50/square ft! Would cost me about a grand to do my 7x18 including the kick plate. Ouch!

I was going to say LineX I have it in my truck but at 6.50 that would hurt. What about shop floor paint they sell kits for about 60.00 bucks at hardware stores.

 

[yamagone]

Ya that seems to be alot of guys suggestions. I'm going to look into it more. I just got a quote from a Line X dealer here in Windsor. To do my floor, both ramp doors and the kick plate on a 7 x 18 trailer was $1950 + HST. That idea is out the window.

 

[smokingcrater]

I tried the hardware store spray-on bedliner stuff on a 4x8 trailer that I hauled a snowmobile around with. Didn't work out so well. The carbides did a number on it, and the studs ended up chewing up the rest of it.

Ended up with half of an old track and some ski guides... Stick with what works!

 

[09nytro]

I would think the carbides would really bit the bed liner and not move very well
Paint it , track mat and carbide runners on floor

 

[Sevey]

Trailer FLoor

I have a Triton TC167 and had the floor finished with a plastic product. They were polymer sheets that were cut to fit the entire floor area. This is not a bad floor surface. It supports carbides and studs pretty good. It does leave a mark, but its slight.

This is the same product highway trailers use to deflect wind out from under the trailer.

Whatever you do don't use white. Every little mark shows up on it.

MS

 

[weasel33]

I put horse mats in the nose of my trailer and it works really well. Even with brand new carbides and stud it did nothing to the mats. it makes it so I can drive in the front of the trailer , turn that little bit and line up with the ski guides. The only thing it's a little heavy. If I would ever get another trailer I would do it again in a second, it works that well.

 

[cannondale27]

X2
Buddy got a bunch of conveyor belting. Rubber stuff. Lots of Factories use it and it is tough looked same after 10 years and if you can find it its usually free since they replace conveyor belts ever 3 or 4 years and would have to pay to dispose of it. Just have to find some.

 

[Teamblue4]

cover the floor with 1/4 plywood, it's durable and it's easy to replace if it get's torn up.

 

[new4stroker]

Even the line x I would??? The carbides will more then likely cut it to crap. I love the line x in my truck and it's strong but sharp carbides and studs would eat it up over time. If you can get a few sheets of 4x8 puck board screw it down you will be bullet and carbide proof for life of trailer. Just be careful it will get slick to walk on covered in snow.

 

[BlkHawk73]

I know some have mentioned this to me before since we spray the liner at work (Vortex not Line-x). Our material is a more rubbery and has a more pebble-like texture if needed. I can say it's a lot cheaper to do as well. There's a LOT of markup at $6.50 sq ft! Now add in the carbides and picks wreaking havoc an this material and you're gonna need it think and a re-spray every yr or two. I'd think a replaceable material would be best. We've used a think 3/4-1" heavy rubber in some jobs that was darn hard to cut. Would be easy enough to install and be replaceable, especially with fixed threaded inserts. Maybe the garage floor rubber pieces?

Another option...commercial cutting board material. Check with shops/kitchens about any old ones or just buy em new.

 

[sorenson1610]

I went with the conveyor belting down the center with old hyfax bars on it for traction. Caliber trailer products has a new traction mat out I saw at haydays that looks pretty good. Its a square of open bars, I think 24x24. Seems pretty nice, I think 2 squares were $30. All open design so nothing sit under mating and rots the floors

 

[sparks49]

I went with the conveyor belting down the center with old hyfax bars on it for traction. Caliber trailer products has a new traction mat out I saw at haydays that looks pretty good. Its a square of open bars, I think 24x24. Seems pretty nice, I think 2 squares were $30. All open design so nothing sit under mating and rots the floors

If you're looking for an economical route, go to your local salvage yard and pick up an old bed liner, (if you play your cards right you can get them for free). Cut the bed liner with a circular saw into 6" wide strips and screw them to the floor, your carbides won't even scratch them. I then used an old track screwed to the floor for the track, works perfect.

 

[yamagone]

Thanks for all the input guys. But I think I found the route I'm going to take. In Canada we have a company called Royal Dist. similar to a Dennis Kirk. They carry trailer mats for the best price I can find in Canada or US. 30"x30" @ $16.00 or 15"x30" @ $10.00. This will give me the floor protection I need for the sleds and the look I'm looking for in the summer months for bikes and karts and most important grip. Should be able to do my 7x18 for around $500. Thanks again for all the ideas.

Coop.