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Tried to achieve 1/2 throttle

Epicsw

Pro
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
196
Age
57
Location
Fort Atkinson
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2017 Sidewinder
I tried many many times to get to at least half throttle on any number of lightly plowed roads on my stock LTX-LE 137 (no studs). Each time I got close, the track would break free and the backend would get real loose. Exciting at times. Downright pant-filling at other times!

On trails with decent snow cover, 100mph plus is no problem at all and it gets there quickly.

This is the first sled in a decade I've owned that is not studded. With the power this thing has, might need studs just to keep it going in a straight line.

Also, at the gas pumps, found this thing won't move forward or in reverse without a little help. Just sits there and spins the track. Had to stand next to the sled and push it while giving it some throttle to get it moving. Never had a sled exhibit that before.

I'm coming from an 2012 Apex and gotta say, I miss the power steering, but can't get over how much quieter the Winder is! At speeds over 50, engine noise all but disappears and it's like your riding an electric powered rocket! At 60 and 70 mph, even small drifts on lakes that cause ever so slight throttle bumps cause noticeable speed accelerations. I thought the Apex was impressive at high speed throttle accelerations. The Winder is steroidal in comparison. Just incredible.
 

Also, at the gas pumps, found this thing won't move forward or in reverse without a little help. Just sits there and spins the track. Had to stand next to the sled and push it while giving it some throttle to get it moving. Never had a sled exhibit that before..

Heavy front end, good carbides will do that.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Some were saying the 137 models seem to be setup nose heavy with too much ski pressure leading to track spin, heavy steering...etc. You might want to adjust your rear skid to lighten up the front end a bit.
 
All in the setup of suspension... Properly setup. It can steer and feel light.. And yes.. It needs studs for God's sake. And not a few or wimpy ones either
 
SJ:

Could I trouble you to post your suspension set up? I followed WVturbo's post....is yours close?

To do as you suggest, I tighten up the front, rear shock....correct?

Q. Arrius
 
What's your weight in gear

Where are you rear torsion spring, limit strap, shock adjusters and transfer blocks set at
 
I am 190 lb completely geared up. And even that's probably on the high side.

The dealer has me on medium or 2 for everything. I'm sure it's how it was shipped.

The limiter is on factory....completely out. My spring tension block is on the lowest....but just picked up the Yamaha factory billet, I believe a four position.

I have Curve skis, with the slim jims. I absolutely freak out with the smallest of darting.

I'm not a high speed rider....and I'm all about precision control.

Any help or suggestions would greatly be appreciated. And on that point: myself and I'm sure many other TY members really appreciate all the help you've given to us new SW owners, over the last several months.

If we meet up at a TY ride....I owe you several beers!

Q. Arrius
 
First off...I always suggest start at full soft (especially since you aren't ditch banging and mogul mashing), and dial up from there... So the first thing is to start all your compression adjusters to #1... If you have rebound adjusters dial down to soft then turn to say 2 or 3 for now.. Put your transfer block at a medium like 2 or 3 if it's on least transfer note...Then I would ride it and report back for finer tuning
 
Remember, the perfect suspension set up is completely subjective. I think you can save yourself a lot of time if you start in the right spot. If you don't you'll be chasing your tail.
Do you want a cushy ride? Start shocks at full soft and work from there.
Do you want to lift your skis easily ie., the fun factor? Start with the most transfer you can achieve.... let the strap out. maybe take the transfer blocks out.
Do you want it to rail? Pull the strap up adjust the center shock coil to put more pressure on the skis.
 
All in the setup of suspension... Properly setup. It can steer and feel light.. And yes.. It needs studs for God's sake. And not a few or wimpy ones either
It absolutely needs studs,and even the 192 1.465 fat heads are not enough,to keep it from spinning. I put 80 miles on my sons LTX-SE 137 and with bare back end,it is very hard to stop when needed,w/out studs.
 


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