yamahahaha
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
which sud is tuffer, in 1.45"(woodys) or 1.5"(stud boy) i will b getting the big nuts lol
i do trail riding, ditchbangin and jumps.
i do trail riding, ditchbangin and jumps.
tuffest stud
When I used to run studs, I always bought Fast-Trac products. I had a BAD experience with Woodys products and will not use them to this day. Woody's claim they have a warranty, but good luck trying to collect. Fast-Trac products were at the time less expensive, I don't know about currently. Worked incredibly well and wore very well. No loss of carbide tips, breakage, or rip out/pull thru in 4800 miles of trail riding.
When I used to run studs, I always bought Fast-Trac products. I had a BAD experience with Woodys products and will not use them to this day. Woody's claim they have a warranty, but good luck trying to collect. Fast-Trac products were at the time less expensive, I don't know about currently. Worked incredibly well and wore very well. No loss of carbide tips, breakage, or rip out/pull thru in 4800 miles of trail riding.
I can't comment on Studboy or Fastrac...but have used Woodys Gold Diggers and Mega-bites and love the Mega bites....I'm not fond of the Gold Diggers as they seem to lose the tips alot...never had an issue with a megabite
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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IMO... From Running Woody's and stud boys on the last 15 years.... Fast Trac Top Gun Studs with XL Airlight polymer plastic backers rule.... Thanks SJ....
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
None of the above. I see Woody's bend all the time.
Can't comment on Stud-Boy.
My vote is for either Accord Racing or Extreme Max.
I have never seen a bent one of either of these brands. And only one broken Accord.
Can't comment on Stud-Boy.
My vote is for either Accord Racing or Extreme Max.
I have never seen a bent one of either of these brands. And only one broken Accord.
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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Have used Woodys STAINLESS STEEL studs for a long time, they have worked perfectly. 
The NON-stainless ones do NOT hold up.
Can see pics of both in the same track & same use here (9000 miles):
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698
Scroll to the bottom of the page for the pics.
Hope this helps!
The NON-stainless ones do NOT hold up.
Can see pics of both in the same track & same use here (9000 miles):
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698
Scroll to the bottom of the page for the pics.
Hope this helps!
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
I like woodys megabites. Have had good luck with them.
Nick1945
TY 4 Stroke Master
I've never had a problem with Gold Diggers, and will stick with them.
yamahahaha
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
i think i am not going to get gold diggers again, so signature series or mega bite
SledFreak said:
I have specific details why the woodys design isnt as good as either the fast tracs (premium priced) or the fast trac knock offs (extremes)....
either of the above are the only studs Id use now..as Ive said...I have never had a stud pull through...
durability is a subjective thing... i.e. conditions etc..
stud deflection(layover)/pull throughs are more of an issue to me...
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
sj said:
I'd like to hear these specific details, not because I'm saying I don't believe you, I'd like to hear so I can run the best most reliable stud possible
srxpotts
Veteran
warthog studs lasted long than any other studs
the tracks today are a softer durometer than the older tracks...Im not an engineer (wheres arteeex when you need him) but It seems like theres less rubber...or not a real rubber...I remember the finger tracks and it looked like air bubbles were injected in the rubber?
either way the track(s) are "whimpier" and the mat is thinner....and seems to compress easier...
if you look at a woody's or any "shouldered" stud...the head is seperated from the shaft with this shoulder....Ive been told its a cold heading process...I think its cheaper to make..either way..the bottomline is this...the backer plate "bottoms out" against that shoulder BEFORE THE BEST COMPRESSION OF THE MATTING OCCURS
sure they have torque specs ...but this is only to prevent from stripping the threads as you cant get any tighter than the shoulder allows...
this is where the softer...thinner rubber matt is affected..
if you look at the fast trac or fast trac clones come into play...
they have a radiused shank to shoulder area...and even if you use the clones you can use fast tracs airlite xl's THESE THINGS ARE AWESOME...VIRTUALLY INDESTRUCTABLE...
when the xl's (which have a radiused I.D. to match the shank of the stud....you can completely compress the mat...
the end result is the stud/backer gets a total squeeze on this mat...
you get an increased amount of penetration over an exact length shouldered stud and..
the head of the stud lays perfectly flush and especially important with longer studs..LESS OR NO STUD DEFLECTION...IF THE STUD DOESNT WANT TO LAY OVER IT HAS LITTLE CHANCE FOR PULL THROUGHS!!
either way the track(s) are "whimpier" and the mat is thinner....and seems to compress easier...
if you look at a woody's or any "shouldered" stud...the head is seperated from the shaft with this shoulder....Ive been told its a cold heading process...I think its cheaper to make..either way..the bottomline is this...the backer plate "bottoms out" against that shoulder BEFORE THE BEST COMPRESSION OF THE MATTING OCCURS
sure they have torque specs ...but this is only to prevent from stripping the threads as you cant get any tighter than the shoulder allows...
this is where the softer...thinner rubber matt is affected..
if you look at the fast trac or fast trac clones come into play...
they have a radiused shank to shoulder area...and even if you use the clones you can use fast tracs airlite xl's THESE THINGS ARE AWESOME...VIRTUALLY INDESTRUCTABLE...
when the xl's (which have a radiused I.D. to match the shank of the stud....you can completely compress the mat...
the end result is the stud/backer gets a total squeeze on this mat...
you get an increased amount of penetration over an exact length shouldered stud and..
the head of the stud lays perfectly flush and especially important with longer studs..LESS OR NO STUD DEFLECTION...IF THE STUD DOESNT WANT TO LAY OVER IT HAS LITTLE CHANCE FOR PULL THROUGHS!!
Long Track
Extreme
SledFreak said:
X2!!
srxpotts said:
warthogs...by snowstuds (formerly known as saber studs) are a very tough stud...but again a shouldered design...
I wouldnt use a shouldered stud any longer than 1 inch anymore on these soft tracks...
also..I have always studded in the outside rows and have never had one stud pull through...
on the heavier tracks of old I used to burn the holes vs cutting...
