1nc 2000
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When I did mine I wanted to fix four issues with one repair.
1. Tunnel coming apart from heat exchanger.
2. Tunnel bowing up from snow and ice.
3.Keeping the tunnel to heat exchanger sealed so snow wont get forced into engine compartment causing snow to get on belt and having belt issues.
4. Have plate long enough to the rear heat exchanger tube mount to keep ends lined up so they wont cut the hose open from the inside where they connect to the front exchanger.
Just replacing the rivets with bolts and fender washers is not going to last very long. The tunnel needs more fasteners to the heat exchanger and additional strengthening to keep it from bowing up.
1. Tunnel coming apart from heat exchanger.
2. Tunnel bowing up from snow and ice.
3.Keeping the tunnel to heat exchanger sealed so snow wont get forced into engine compartment causing snow to get on belt and having belt issues.
4. Have plate long enough to the rear heat exchanger tube mount to keep ends lined up so they wont cut the hose open from the inside where they connect to the front exchanger.
Just replacing the rivets with bolts and fender washers is not going to last very long. The tunnel needs more fasteners to the heat exchanger and additional strengthening to keep it from bowing up.
DMCTurbo
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When I did mine I wanted to fix four issues with one repair.
1. Tunnel coming apart from heat exchanger.
2. Tunnel bowing up from snow and ice.
3.Keeping the tunnel to heat exchanger sealed so snow wont get forced into engine compartment causing snow to get on belt and having belt issues.
4. Have plate long enough to the rear heat exchanger tube mount to keep ends lined up so they wont cut the hose open from the inside where they connect to the front exchanger.
Just replacing the rivets with bolts and fender washers is not going to last very long. The tunnel needs more fasteners to the heat exchanger and additional strengthening to keep it from bowing up.
No doubt your repair is far superior than mine but I feel the 1/4" bolts and fender washers are way superior to the OEM aluminum rivets.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Once the tunnel gets moving from the snow and ice pushing it up it will loosen up. Since your that far into it doing preventive maintenance you should reinforce the tunnel so you wont have to do it again next winter. Just trying to help out here.
Crossfire12
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Should make tunnel out of 1/4 steel welded and you guys wouldn’t have this problem, you could hit 5 footers, walls, everything, motor will pull the weight.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Should make tunnel out of 1/4 steel welded and you guys wouldn’t have this problem, you could hit 5 footers, walls, everything, motor will pull the weight.
Artic cat should put some pride in their work and do it the correct way. Piece of crap cheap design. No way should issues like this show up for the price we pay for this junk.
stevewithOCD
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Should make tunnel out of 1/4 steel welded and you guys wouldn’t have this problem, you could hit 5 footers, walls, everything, motor will pull the weight.
I think there is a plate/bracket made by someone out there that stiffens this WHOLE front area up with just aluminum.
I think it weighs like 5 ounces.
Maybe it was for Mountain sleds. Can't recall
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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I think there is a plate/bracket made by someone out there that stiffens this WHOLE front area up with just aluminum.
I think it weighs like 5 ounces.
Maybe it was for Mountain sleds. Can't recall
Show me the money!
I used titanium fasteners on my tunnel repair.
Too bad they changed the design from the viper to the sidewinder of the heat exchanger in this area just to add a rear cooler.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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I'm grumpy, been going thru hp withdrawals since the snow melted.....
stevewithOCD
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Show me the money!
I used titanium fasteners on my tunnel repair.
Too bad they changed the design from the viper to the sidewinder of the heat exchanger in this area just to add a rear cooler.
It's an aluminum plate that wraps around the whole front of tunnel.
I can't find it yet........still searching.
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