Ulmer racing airbox

[Super Sled]

Really nice looking unit. Really nice bling factor!!!! You outta market it as is. It'd sell anyways. Not everything has to be a performance mod IMHO.

 

[Srxspec]

I am reworking the setup slightly and hope to have it on the dyno again soon.

 

[Loc Tro]

Did this ever get finished?

 

[Hooray!]

SB air box mod worked great. See my post for install. Feels like engine just wanted to breathe. Sounds good too at WOT as you pass 85/90mph. : )

 

[Loc Tro]

SB air box mod worked great. See my post for install. Feels like engine just wanted to breathe. Sounds good too at WOT as you pass 85/90mph. : )

Thanks I think i did see that. Kinda debating and researching options on exhaust and intakes. Trying to figure the best bang for the buck of course. Lol

 

[Hooray!]

Same here, the SB's were $50 and seemed logical, more cold air ramming in at speed is better. Of course you cant dyno this effect without an A/C injection system at the Dyno location which nobody has so unable to prove the hp gains claimed but I swear it is more responsive, snappier & sounds cool too!

 

[Loc Tro]

Same here, the SB's were $50 and seemed logical, more cold air ramming in at speed is better. Of course you cant dyno this effect without an A/C injection system at the Dyno location which nobody has so unable to prove the hp gains claimed but I swear it is more responsive, snappier & sounds cool too!

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I wonder why so many small filters. Why not 3 bigger ones? Air tumble more this way or something like that? Why not buy 3 two inch flo rites from slp instead? Any internal mods to the air box worth anything? Saw a few you tube video modifying stock air box. Not sure what I want to do yet.

 

[Hooray!]

Good question. I bet Chris Schmidt has a good answer or even tried 2" and returned to the three 1" because they worked better. He tests everything thoroughly and releases what works best. I don't mind paying him a little more for all the testing as every SB item I have (tunnel block off plate, air box mod, steering shim/pins, easy primary clutch kit, transfer rod collars) simply works.

 

[Loc Tro]

Good question. I bet Chris Schmidt has a good answer or even tried 2" and returned to the three 1" because they worked better. He tests everything thoroughly and releases what works best. I don't mind paying him a little more for all the testing as every SB item I have (tunnel block off plate, air box mod, steering shim/pins, easy primary clutch kit, transfer rod collars) simply works.

You are slowly convincing me and thanks for that. I needed a little push and some feedback as well. Can you message me about some of those other parts you bought from him as well. Curious to learn more about that stuff I been eyeballing his website hard and want lots of it. I don’t want to get too far off topic but curious to learn more about that all.

 

[Hooray!]

Chris really understands how to make Yamahas better. After talking with him several times I found his knowledge and willingness to assist second to none. I was on a budget so selected these items:
1. Primary clutch kit. I think he calls it the easy clutch as the smaller rollers and lighter spring lower the engagement down around 2600 rpm which avoids the jumpiness of the stock setuo and our engines have plenty of torque down there.
2. Tunnel block off plate. Don't need an extra 40 lb of ice under my tunnel. His partial plate works great. He tried a full plate and it was not required and did not allow adequate cooling in his mind.
3. Steering pins. Simple use of bolts with a shaft wider than the threads to eliminate slop. My front end was all new so it was noticeable. Now zero play.
4. Steering shim. Another shim that goes on the steering pivot in front of airbox. Removes another area for slop. My steering is now very tight, make a difference.
5. Air box breathers. Those nine 1" holes make a difference at speed. Cold air direct to the intakes vs warm under the engine. Seems snappier and wants to put hard even at 75/80. : )
6. Coupler collars. Cheaper than stock flimsy platic collars these really tighten things up on the rear of our skid. I did all new bushings everywhere I could. These collars have a much tighter tolerance, again remove slop.
7. Rear mount shims. Another small shim that takes away slop on our skids.
8. High flow shock hose. This came with my HyGear suspension but well worth it alone if you have a stock shock.
9. Extra wheel kit. My has the Xwheel eight wheel kit, but Chris has the critical front wheels if you don't have the full kit.
I am considering the 4th rear axle kit and the secondary clutch kit for the future. Bottom line, his stuff works. You might be able to buy the parts alone knowing what he puts together as a proven tested kit but I would rather support a guy willing to mess with making our Nytros better than save $50... He has some other Nytro items too I suspect work well but I had to put some $ towards a new starter, relay and battery so add-ons had to wait. I did do Rocmeister's HID kit, amazing difference, no flicker and low draw ballast, highly recommend. Detailed all in my Nytro Front End + thread with pics. Next year maybe going with a black hood and tank cover.

 

[Loc Tro]

I

Chris really understands how to make Yamahas better. After talking with him several times I found his knowledge and willingness to assist second to none. I was on a budget so selected these items:
1. Primary clutch kit. I think he calls it the easy clutch as the smaller rollers and lighter spring lower the engagement down around 2600 rpm which avoids the jumpiness of the stock setuo and our engines have plenty of torque down there.
2. Tunnel block off plate. Don't need an extra 40 lb of ice under my tunnel. His partial plate works great. He tried a full plate and it was not required and did not allow adequate cooling in his mind.
3. Steering pins. Simple use of bolts with a shaft wider than the threads to eliminate slop. My front end was all new so it was noticeable. Now zero play.
4. Steering shim. Another shim that goes on the steering pivot in front of airbox. Removes another area for slop. My steering is now very tight, make a difference.
5. Air box breathers. Those nine 1" holes make a difference at speed. Cold air direct to the intakes vs warm under the engine. Seems snappier and wants to put hard even at 75/80. : )
6. Coupler collars. Cheaper than stock flimsy platic collars these really tighten things up on the rear of our skid. I did all new bushings everywhere I could. These collars have a much tighter tolerance, again remove slop.
7. Rear mount shims. Another small shim that takes away slop on our skids.
8. High flow shock hose. This came with my HyGear suspension but well worth it alone if you have a stock shock.
9. Extra wheel kit. My has the Xwheel eight wheel kit, but Chris has the critical front wheels if you don't have the full kit.
I am considering the 4th rear axle kit and the secondary clutch kit for the future. Bottom line, his stuff works. You might be able to buy the parts alone knowing what he puts together as a proven tested kit but I would rather support a guy willing to mess with making our Nytros better than save $50... He has some other Nytro items too I suspect work well but I had to put some $ towards a new starter, relay and battery so add-ons had to wait. I did do Rocmeister's HID kit, amazing difference, no flicker and low draw ballast, highly recommend. Detailed all in my Nytro Front End + thread with pics. Next year maybe going with a black hood and tank cover.

Nice. Thanks for all the input. I hope I can find this info when I need it. Lol.
I have a new lightweight Black Mountain fit hood in my garage attic somewhere if interested?

 

[Loc Tro]

I



Nice. Thanks for all the input. I hope I can find this info when I need it. Lol.
I have a new lightweight Black Mountain fit hood in my garage attic somewhere if interested?

I did the mountaintech steering post relocate and doing his a arm kit now and tunnel kit now. Have his kit I made for sled and never once had a issue 4 years later and was a awesome upgrade. Just bought a power commander. Just bought wrp seat. Upman bushing kit. Oilite bushing kit for front. Next need all Chris stuff. Also buying full Hindle exhaust and selling a mbrp can. Will do stage 2 clutch kit and matching and primary shim kit and air box mod and prob some more of his stuff as well. Will see little at a time and sometimes a LOT all at once like now. Beefing up subframe as well. Also have axis shocks in rear 136 skid with 1.75 paddle. Slowly liking my sled better with time and money!

 

[Hooray!]

I did the mountaintech steering post relocate and doing his a arm kit now and tunnel kit now. Have his kit I made for sled and never once had a issue 4 years later and was a awesome upgrade. Just bought a power commander. Just bought wrp seat. Upman bushing kit. Oilite bushing kit for front. Next need all Chris stuff. Also buying full Hindle exhaust and selling a mbrp can. Will do stage 2 clutch kit and matching and primary shim kit and air box mod and prob some more of his stuff as well. Will see little at a time and sometimes a LOT all at once like now. Beefing up subframe as well. Also have axis shocks in rear 136 skid with 1.75 paddle. Slowly liking my sled better with time and money!

Sounds like you are set up... exactly, once you tweak here and there, it will be just as you want it coming in too hot at 65mph into a soft corner knowing exactly how she will respond with brakes, slipping the rear end to the outside of the corner and laying on the throttle before the apex to torque your way through the corner and stay floating on top of the soft snow and not in the ditch or worse yet trees... after nearly 700 miles (two rides), I can see how these Nytros become very predictable with small mods. I have the HyGear and other items in my signature, added up a great ride.

 

[Loc Tro]

Sounds like you are set up... exactly, once you tweak here and there, it will be just as you want it coming in too hot at 65mph into a soft corner knowing exactly how she will respond with brakes, slipping the rear end to the outside of the corner and laying on the throttle before the apex to torque your way through the corner and stay floating on top of the soft snow and not in the ditch or worse yet trees... after nearly 700 miles (two rides), I can see how these Nytros become very predictable with small mods. I have the HyGear and other items in my signature, added up a great ride.

I would guess I will like mine a lot more once all is done.