(update, found the problem )is my motor blown ?

I notice the flashing yellow on start up
I had that when my fuel pump relay was not working
When you turn the key to the first position, are you getting the click and sound of fuel pump coming on.?
 
Fuel pump is working fine , plug are getting wet quickly

One thing strange, check the needle on the tach, I don't think needle is supposed to move before sled is running

I have code 14, and got 16 in history, can't erase both, 14 is always there
 
Here's an idea, change the oil and the spark plugs. Leave the plugs out overnight to dry out the cylinders. After trying to start it so many times, it is so flooded that the oil is also full of fuel.

Used to have a similar problem on an old fuel injected car that when my mother in law tried to start it in humid conditions, it wouldn't start and flood. After trying so many times, the oil smelled of gas and would add to the flooding condition.

BUT, you have to find the reason for the code 14 and also 16 (throttle position sensor?)
 
Mooseman said:
Here's an idea, change the oil and the spark plugs. Leave the plugs out overnight to dry out the cylinders. After trying to start it so many times, it is so flooded that the oil is also full of fuel.

Used to have a similar problem on an old fuel injected car that when my mother in law tried to start it in humid conditions, it wouldn't start and flood. After trying so many times, the oil smelled of gas and would add to the flooding condition.

BUT, you have to find the reason for the code 14 and also 16 (throttle position sensor?)

I agree, dump the oil as it is now diluted and no longer good, especially if it is just Dino oil.

Also, after the oil change and before you try and start it, pump/dumo a couple shots of oil down each cylinder to help re-install the oil seal.

If your sled is/was severely flooded, you have removed this seal and it will be next to impossible to get it started due to this no matter how hard you try, and you will only end up ruining your fresh oil change again.

Any oil will do, but it is preferred to use engine oil or fogging oil.

Good luck.
 
For the motor to start, you need compression(confirmed), spark(confirmed), and uncontaminated air fuel mixture(not confirmed), all to occurr at the correct time(not confirmed)

I still wonder where the crankcase ventilation tube dumps to if you do not have an airbox.(hopefully not into the intake...which would explain black plugs as opposed to wet plugs.

You need to see if it is oil poured into engine via the crankcase vent tube.
 
the crankcase vent is in a small K&N filter near the steering column.

I will drain oil completly and let it dry a couple of hour

I will also check for short wire (this one will be painful)

In diagnostic mode, TPS work good, going from 16 to 93 (a little low)

intake air pressure is 98 when cranking, and ambient is 100

In the service shop, they said that code 14 will clear when engine will be running, could it explain that code 14 is still there ?

thanks for the help,

its sad to have a sled sitting in garage, sled belong to my brother and we still have maybe 1 or 2 week-end left before high temp make snow melt. Hpoe we get it started tonight :Rockon:
 

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Have you tried turning it over with the plugs out to see if oil or gas shoots out of the spark plug hole.
If the shoot out is oily oil must have got into the intake.
If the shoot out is gassy spray, it is flooding.
If shoot out is normal, and you say you have spark, fuel, and compression (how much)...then it only leaves timing of the system (ugly..timing chain, ecu, sensors), or clogged intake or exhaust, or something unusual. I have heard of crankshft position sensor causing such as you have.

Let us know on this one...really curious
 
Update:

- Oil was smelling gas real bad, so changed oil and everything.

- Spark plug where wet with oil and gas
- Sled backfire sometime trought intake
- checked all 4 coils and they fire good
- Timing is spot on with the flywheel

With new oil, fresh sparkplug, and gave the sled 12 hour to let it dry without plug.

Cranked, nothing, only rpm reading as i start like the vid.

But, i got more code, 14-16-46

Funny thing, in diagnostic mode, TPS reading is good and pressure too.

I will go farther tonigh, i will remove every bit of hoses from throttle body and clean them with air.
 
Found code list for the Apex
http://www.ty4stroke.com/download.php?id=77941

Basically the same as Phazers.

14: Faulty pressure sensor
16: Stuck TPS
46: Power to fuel injection system abnormal

For 46, says something about possible charging system fault. Did you check all the fuses? Don't just look at them, check for voltage on both ends of them. Some could look OK but may be burnt.
 
As you have compression, spark and correct timing, it now seems that you are still getting flooding.
I thought it was from oil from the tip over. However, as you have cleaned and dried everything out, it must be over fuel supply. If the ecu thinks that the throttle is full on and is injecting too much fuel, the. Flooding could occurr.
I dont suspect throttle bodies, as all 4 would not go wrong at the same time. I would think that it is more of a sensor or ecu advising to put in too much gas.
 
its party code tonight, ive got 11-14-16-46

one more

its no more flooded, plug are dry

im starting to think ground, i will check all connection and grounding everywhere and batterie was almost dead
 
I'd try changing the plugs again after it airs out, as even the new ones are probably oil fouled if oil got in the top end. Also, if enough oil or fuel got into the top end and it was started before it got a chance to drain, it could have hydro-locked, and bent valves? Someone correct me if this doesn't apply to this motor....
 
If he has good compression, i dont see bent valves as possible.
With so many codes....sounding more like ecu or sensor
 


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