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UPDATE (Problem on new oversize idlers)

APEXER1

Extreme
Joined
Jan 3, 2006
Messages
64
Location
Catskills, New York
Website
purdyracing.com
Just received the oversize idlers from Max Perf, and i'm alittle dissapointed in how they fit. The urethane wheel is great but because of the oversize bearing in the wheel they put the idler to close to the track lugs on the inside rears. There so close the lugs just hit the wheel edge unless your track is in perfect align. And i'm sure that as soon as you turn a corner the track will shift in the rear alittle and start to chew up the wheels. So the only way i could correct the problem was to machine off about 3/32 or .090 off the wheel holder. Now there about perfect.+ the new lock nuts included now screw on far enough so they will lock properly. If you don't have the holders machined your gona have to use a thinner washer on the bolt so it will squeeze in farther on the threads or use some good loctite and hope they don't come loose. I would suggest you have the holders machined like i did on my lathe. If you look at the fotos you will see how much i had to remove. 3/32 doesn't seem like much but it's more then you think. ;)!

If you want this done and can't find a shop to do it, i can probably do it for you .
 

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I did the same lathe mod to mine.

The 6205 bearing is actually 3mm (0.120") wider than the stock 6005 bearing.

To keep the wheels centered in the original location you need to take off half of this or 1.5mm (0.060").

I also installed longer bolts.
 
APEXER1, I just talked to Gary at Maximum Performance today. He said no problem to bolt on the way they were. Mine seem to fit into rear lugs ok. On front outside wheels it moves the wheel out a very small amount. Doesn't look like that should make a difference either. Thats why I called Gary, I had your same concern. studdog.
 
studdog said:
APEXER1, I just talked to Gary at Maximum Performance today. He said no problem to bolt on the way they were. Mine seem to fit into rear lugs ok. On front outside wheels it moves the wheel out a very small amount. Doesn't look like that should make a difference either. Thats why I called Gary, I had your same concern. studdog.

Well what did you think he was going to tell you He is a good business man and doesn't sell parts by saying Well they might rub and peel off but don't worry i have plenty more
 
APEXER1 said:
I think you guys should look at the fotos close and you will see that the Max Perf. wheel is too close. When the track moves over on a turn GOOD BYE WHEEL!!!

That picture is a before taking off 0.060" from the idler mount.

The wheels center nicely between drive cogs after the mount is machined.

I have just under 2500 kms on this season running the 03/04 style Yamaha wheels (same bearing and wheel center as Max Perf.) and with the wheel centered have no problems.

I'm not certain if problems would appear over high miles if you didn't take off the 0.060", but if you do take it off there is definitely no problem.

I'd say there's a pretty good chance that Gary is correct and you can get away with not centering the wheel.
 
I have 750 miles on max perf without issues on my attak, did not modify them but will take a closer look now. they do seem to be allright.
Mostly trail riding in the Adks.
 
I put POLARIS wheels on my 05 and they do come close to the inside lugs. I have about 1.300 miles on them and they still look like new...
 
I put 04 RX 1 idlers and they are 3 mm wider bearings. but I didn't machine the support, thought about it but theyre barely off... did already 200 miles and no problem, the older ones didn't hold out 100 miles... I dont know that it makes that much of a difference...

RASH
 
Put the Doo wheels on the Apex last night and checked the clearence and there about the same as the Max Perf, wheels. There close to the lugs whitout machining the holders. Some other guys on here say that they have had no problem with these wheels on there Apex, Whether it be the Max Perf, wheel or the Doo wheel or the polaris wheel. So hay! go for it. If the wheels get chewed up then at least i'm not the one EATING CROW!
 
Besides not maching the blocks, will going to a bigger wheel hinder any performance or mechical issues in the rear skid, if we only change the 6 wheels and not the rear axle ones. Instead of machining, can you just change the bearing to a 6005 from the 6205 and will that help for clearance. I don't have a lathe.
 
Besides not maching the blocks, will going to a bigger wheel hinder any performance or mechical issues in the rear skid, if we only change the 6 wheels and not the rear axle ones. Instead of machining, can you just change the bearing to a 6005 from the 6205 and will that help for clearance. I don't have a lathe.

The 6005 is a smaller od. Maybe someone makes a bushing. That would be the easier way out no dought. But the 6205 is a heavy duty bearing and will probably handle the load better and last longer.
 
SledFreak said:
Besides not maching the blocks, will going to a bigger wheel hinder any performance or mechical issues in the rear skid, if we only change the 6 wheels and not the rear axle ones. Instead of machining, can you just change the bearing to a 6005 from the 6205 and will that help for clearance. I don't have a lathe.
If you dont have access to a lathe you best choice would be the yamaha accessory wheels they have the right bearing, You cant just change bearings the wheels have to be desinged for the smaller bearing. if you can get themBlue


SMA-8FP38-01-BL $21.95


Red


SMA-8FP38-01-RD $21.95


Silver


SMA-8FP38-01-SL $21.95


Yellow


SMA-8FP38-01-YL $21.95








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