Viper Ltx Se clutch help/opinions

[skidooslayer687]

Hey guys, just thought I would throw a few questions out there for some suggestions and opinions, I have a 2014 Viper Ltx Se, has the following mods:
168 studs
4th rear wheel kit
Hindle full exhaust, with power commander and air box mod (hurricane performance)

What I'm having an issue with is the clutching, I can't wrap my head around it... I've got a "kit" on it, but cannot for the life of me get it dialed in properly, have tried talking to the vendor, has suggested some things but still is not running the way it should to me... Clutch setup is

Supertip weights, heel has 1 tungsten and 5 washers, no washers in middle or tip, had to run that many washers in heel to overcome initial over rev. Has the blue silver blue Yamaha spring

Secondary has a 51/43 helix with the white spring wrapped at 6-2 also am running the 8jp belt

Both clutches are spotless, went all threw them and checked for wear in bushings etc and found none, no excessive belt dust or anything

Now my issues:

#1 I cannot seem to get the Rpms where they should be, out of the hole I'm seeing roughly 9100, then drops off to around 8400, and will climb back up to anywhere from 8600-8800 rpm. There doesn't seem to be a consistant rpm that it will pull.

#2 on full shift out, the belt will only come up to roughly 5/8" below the edge of the primary... This seems low compared to where my srx ran. I ran it on gps on the weekend and the most i saw was 94mph.

Now I've been doing some reading on here and a lot of guys are switching to the 8dn belt... Wondering what your guys opinions are on that..... Also looking for any insight into the clutching... I had my srx dialed in but cannot get this dam thing right,

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[TD Max]

I don't think you are supposed to run more than 4 washers per post and a tungsten is not supposed to have a washer either.

 

[skidooslayer687]

I started off with 7 washers, now have worked up to that, that's the only way I can overcome the initial over rev, have worked up 1 washer at a time basically until I got to that amount

 

[TD Max]

The sheet with the weights states what I noted above. Unfortunately I have the opposite trouble with low RPMs and low speed.

 

[newtron]

Hey guys, just thought I would throw a few questions out there for some suggestions and opinions, I have a 2014 Viper Ltx Se, has the following mods:
168 studs
4th rear wheel kit
Hindle full exhaust, with power commander and air box mod (hurricane performance)

What I'm having an issue with is the clutching, I can't wrap my head around it... I've got a "kit" on it, but cannot for the life of me get it dialed in properly, have tried talking to the vendor, has suggested some things but still is not running the way it should to me... Clutch setup is

Supertip weights, heel has 1 tungsten and 5 washers, no washers in middle or tip, had to run that many washers in heel to overcome initial over rev. Has the blue silver blue Yamaha spring

Secondary has a 51/43 helix with the white spring wrapped at 6-2 also am running the 8jp belt

Both clutches are spotless, went all threw them and checked for wear in bushings etc and found none, no excessive belt dust or anything

Now my issues:

#1 I cannot seem to get the Rpms where they should be, out of the hole I'm seeing roughly 9100, then drops off to around 8400, and will climb back up to anywhere from 8600-8800 rpm. There doesn't seem to be a consistant rpm that it will pull.

#2 on full shift out, the belt will only come up to roughly 5/8" below the edge of the primary... This seems low compared to where my srx ran. I ran it on gps on the weekend and the most i saw was 94mph.

Now I've been doing some reading on here and a lot of guys are switching to the 8dn belt... Wondering what your guys opinions are on that..... Also looking for any insight into the clutching... I had my srx dialed in but cannot get this dam thing right,

Thanks in advance for any help!

Change your secondary spring to the stock pink wrapped at 6-1. Your top end is going to be terrible with that setup

 

[skidooslayer687]

TD Max, I understand that and am not trying to argue, all I'm saying is that if I remove the single washer from the heel to give me the 4 washers and a tungsten I bounce off the rev limiter off the line, I add the extra washer, no rev limiter.

newtron, you think I should go back to the pink secondary spring?

 

[skidooslayer687]

My Rpms go from high off the line to back down then slowly climb back up, just no conistancy in final rpm.... What should the top rpm be? I've read anywhere from 8900 to 9150?

 

[newtron]

TD Max, I understand that and am not trying to argue, all I'm saying is that if I remove the single washer from the heel to give me the 4 washers and a tungsten I bounce off the rev limiter off the line, I add the extra washer, no rev limiter.

newtron, you think I should go back to the pink secondary spring?

even if you wrap your secondary at 6-1 with the white spring it will help

 

[skidooslayer687]

I had it wrapped at 6-1, would only pull 8500 rpm on top... That's what the kit recommended is a 6-1 wrap

 

[newtron]

Your finish angle is too steep to maintain rpms.

What kind of setup are you looking for?

 

[newtron]

personally I would put everything back to stock in the clutches and see if you really gained any hp. If your rpms haven't increase with your mods and stock clutching then you haven't gained any hp....just a clutch kit you don't like

 

[skidooslayer687]

Buddies nytro has the identical setup, same helix, springs, the can arms are weighted different and he's running the 8dn belt and his setup works very well, maintains 9100-9200 out of the hole and tops out around 9300... Same mods to the motor, exhaust, intake etc... That's what's confusing me, why mine is so much different... Like I've read the other clutching threads on here and there's guys with similar mods running the supertip but don't have anywhere near the heel weight I have. I'm looking for an aggressive trail setup with the occasional drag race, I know clutching is give and take and I can't have it all but to me it should pull proper Rpms no matter what no?

 

[newtron]

What I have read so far is the nytro and viper are different animals. Probably best not to compare

Conditions will determine rpms so no you won't pull proper rpms no matter what. You can get it close but never perfect in "All" conditions

Dave knows his stuff and that's why I bought my turbo off of him, but his clutch setup is not what I wanted so I adjusted.

 

[skidooslayer687]

The motor is the same though and should run the same peak rpm no? Not comparing setups, just overall engine performance/peak rpm?

what if I was to get a primary spring with a little less finishing force? Would that bring my rpm up? And if I went over my targeted rpm I could add weight to compensate for that? Or would a different helix be better?

 

[Studroes144]

One thing with adjusting weights is that whether weight is in the heel or the tip, weight is weight. From my experience with the viper you don't want heel weight, because of the centrifugal force, tip weight can still keep the sled off the rev limiter down but allow it to maintain a smoother rpm in the full shift range. If it were my sled (and this is totally my opinion based on how I set mine up) I'd take the weight out of the heel and start adjusting the tip of the weights instead. A finished product should pull right around 9000-9100 rpm in perfect conditions and then when u get in deep/loose snow you should still be able to maintain 8800+ rpm. If you have an 8dn belt to use, use it, if not you can continue to try with the stock belt but an 8dn will work better for you.